+1 As a former alignment mechanic and High school auto mechanics instructor it doesn't do a lot of good to try to adjust the alignment without having the car complete, and at it's static ride height that it will be going down the road at. Once the car is all assembled and almost ready to roll one can do the level against the rim/tires to ball park the camber and tape measure the toe in to be able to drive it to an alignment shop rather than trailer. You have to have all of the weight on the suspension that the rig is going to go down the road with to be able to set it correctly otherwise you are just wasting time.
There are so many mistakes in this article it should be removed . I am not tooting my horn, but I teach Alignments for a living and this is a pretty pathetic article on how not to ..
Correct on both points. I always used to start with 1/4 degree less camber on the passenger side wheel ( US not OZ) than the drivers side. This usually compensates for the camber in the road surface and allows the car to track straight on those roads. Different areas of the country or world may call for slightly different settings due to the way the roads you normally drive on are built. And Trasher is correct on the shim thing as Most Ford products work the opposite as GM. On most of the HAMB friendly cars you want 1/8" toe in for best results. Over a period of years I found that it usually worked the best for overall handling and tire wear characteristics. There is always that one particular setup that takes something a bit different but most rigs are happy with 1/8 toe in.
WHAT ARE you an idiot !!! of course they don't use a rack at the track they only make minor adjustments during a race,not A FULL BLOWN ALIGNMENT !! the chassis is buit on a chassis bench and all hard adjuustments are made then !
You should have seen Jeff Burton's crew yesterday at Fontana putting a shim in the right front upper control arm cuz the thing was such a pig in the corners!
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