Have a 51 Merc with front disk and rear drum brakes. Has frame mounted booster and am running front and rear residual valves. Where is the best place to put a hydraulic brake switch ? Thanks
Gotta ask why you need a hydraulic switch? The small lever switches are so much easier to install, and don't require any leakage if they ever need replaced. But they never will. Can you say the same for a hydraulic version? ACDelco D866C
I'm using a CPP proportioning valve on my Ford which comes with the hydraulic switch. If it becomes a PITA, I'll go with a Ford mechanical.
I used a couple of the mechanical switches from Speedy Bill (RIP), and had nothing but trouble.Plus it pissed me off that for a $6.95 part,they said I had to pay $7.99 shipping (minimum amount for good ole UPS as per their contract). NAPA is 5 minutes away.No brainer ( and in my case, that's a good thing).Running the juice switch for awhile; no runs, no hits,no errors.
I have had nothing but bad luck with hydraulic switches. buy the best you can find and keep a spare . and while you are there clean your bleeders cuz when it fails you will need to bleed your brakes. last time I did mine I needed new slaves and lines just because a p.o.s. Echlin switch failed on me 200 miles from home.
the hyd switches that hold up best are the ones Ford now uses for the cruise control shut off on the 96 -2003 explorers they hold up great ( make sure its the black top not the old recalled Orange top units )
Sometimes when they go bad you can tap them and they unstick. I don't have to bleed my brakes when I change the switches though so I don't know what im doing wrong.
My avatar is front disk. Rear drum. Master below the floor. No residual valves. Hydraulic switch. 20 years and A LOT of miles. No problems.