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Hot Rods Hydraulic brake switch location ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BEAR51, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. BEAR51
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 46

    BEAR51
    Member
    from Chicago

    Have a 51 Merc with front disk and rear drum brakes. Has frame mounted booster and am running front and rear residual valves.
    Where is the best place to put a hydraulic brake switch ?
    Thanks
     
  2. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,734

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    On the cars I plumb I put it in the rear line ahead of the residual valve.
     
  3. Someplace easy to get to, they fail often
     
    bct and bobwop like this.
  4. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    in between the master and the residual valve
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  5. BEAR51
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 46

    BEAR51
    Member
    from Chicago

    Thanks for the info !!
     
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,596

    alchemy
    Member

    Gotta ask why you need a hydraulic switch? The small lever switches are so much easier to install, and don't require any leakage if they ever need replaced. But they never will. Can you say the same for a hydraulic version?
    ACDelco D866C
     
  7. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,705

    bobss396
    Member

    I'm using a CPP proportioning valve on my Ford which comes with the hydraulic switch. If it becomes a PITA, I'll go with a Ford mechanical.
     
  8. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,559

    mike bowling
    Member

    I used a couple of the mechanical switches from Speedy Bill (RIP), and had nothing but trouble.Plus it pissed me off that for a $6.95 part,they said I had to pay $7.99 shipping (minimum amount for good ole UPS as per their contract). NAPA is 5 minutes away.No brainer ( and in my case, that's a good thing).Running the juice switch for awhile; no runs, no hits,no errors.
     
  9. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,192

    bct
    Member

    I have had nothing but bad luck with hydraulic switches. buy the best you can find and keep a spare . and while you are there clean your bleeders cuz when it fails you will need to bleed your brakes. last time I did mine I needed new slaves and lines just because a p.o.s. Echlin switch failed on me 200 miles from home.
     
  10. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    the hyd switches that hold up best are the ones Ford now uses for the cruise control shut off on the 96 -2003 explorers they hold up great ( make sure its the black top not the old recalled Orange top units )
     
  11. BEAR51
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 46

    BEAR51
    Member
    from Chicago

    Thanks for replies!
     
  12. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,717

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Sometimes when they go bad you can tap them and they unstick. I don't have to bleed my brakes when I change the switches though so I don't know what im doing wrong.
     
    bct likes this.
  13. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,192

    bct
    Member

    just make sure that tap isn't coming from the person behind you .
     
  14. My avatar is front disk. Rear drum. Master below the floor. No residual valves. Hydraulic switch. 20 years and A LOT of miles. No problems.
     
  15. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,489

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I mount mine in the garbage can.
     

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