In putting to gether my 37 I'm quickly realizing that I have no room for a mechanical clutch with all of the linkage and what not. It looks like I might have to do some sort of Hydraulic clutch set up. However my thing is trying to stick to as period correct as possible. I know it really makes so sense to go this far with it but hey its a disease.... try telling a crack addict to lay of the crack pipe right. So to make a long story longer my question for those of you in the know or those with some creativity is there a way to make a hydraulic push pin that depresses the clutch fork out of some convoluted small master cylinder/ wheel cylinder combination? I'm trying to say with a pre 56 period.... so how would it have happend pre 56 (hypothetically of course). thanks in advance! -Chris
mechanical clutches worked in '37..should work now.. what kind of engine are you putting in it..photos?
What Engine and ****** combo are running? When I was setting up my 40, 327 Muncie combo I ran into similiar whoes. Running stock pedals the brake pedal would clash with the clutch arm. That eliminated the use of any mechanical linkage or even hydraulic slave cylinder. I ended up using a Hydraulic throwout. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101945&highlight=hydraulic+clutch Heres a tech thread I did on it. No its not all pre 56, but it works good.
Perhaps with some aircraft hydraulic's It would fit in with the other surplus aircraft parts that were used on rods after the war. Although everything on aircraft back then was probably cable driven. Gary
I'm running a 235 with a 3 speed... Not going for performance issues, Just don't havt the room because the stock pedals, steering etc are in the way. Would like to run a slave if I can find a way to make it period.
As for the period correct part, Jaguar was using Hydraulics for the clutch in 1951 on the Mk7 Saloon (sedan to us yankees)
There was a great thread recently about a cable clutch. I think it was DRuss32. THere is also an Aussie model A build here that had a trick setup.
I ran into a similar situation and relocated the clutch fork to a lower position. I relocated the pivot ball in the bell housing then did a little grinding on the bell for clearance and dropped the fork about 7 o'clock and made a bracket and used a ford truck slave unit. Worked good for me.
In my roadster I'm running a nailhead 401 which has the starter on drivers side, combined with the clutter of clutch and brake pedals, I had no room for any sort of mechanical clutch linkage. Ended up flipping the throw out arm over to p***enger side.....only thing visible on outside is a small slave cyl.
61 - n 62 chevy pick up came with a bell housing that had a Hydraulic slave cyclinder on the p*** side of the motor , i ran into the same issue with my 6 cyclinder 59 chevy wagon because of the frame n i wanted to install a header , so i found two of these bell housings n installed the one on my 292 n had no problems . i have an extra that will fit the 235
The hydraulic unit used in 1956 - 1968 Dodge D/W-series pickups might work. One slave cyl and one master cyl, plus the lines and actuator.
I used a master cylinder and slave cylinder from a '70s Ford Courier (Mazda) pickup with the 307 Chevy and T-5 in my '38 Ford pickup. Just fabricated a bracket to mount the slave cylinder on the bellhousing, couldn't be simpler and couldn't work better.
A 37 Ford? With what engine? I worked for the longest time trying to make a hydraulic clutch work in my 37 Ford with a SBC and Muncie. Could never get enough room. I finally worked it out mechanicaly using the Ford linkage and s****ped the hydraulic idea. After the fact, I did find that Ch***is Engineering offers a nice under-floor hydraulic/brake clutch set up -- but you won't find it in their catalogue. It might be worth a call. The one thing I could never out is, with a hydraulic throwout bearing, how does one adjust for normal disk wear? You shim the throwout bearing for proper clearance at initial set up, but then what over time as the disk wears? Let me know if you want more details on my solution.
You don't. You don't adjust disc brakes, either. As it wears, additional fluid will flow into the T/O bearing to take up the slop, same as disc brakes
Small blue car to the left has a hydraulic clutch out of a Jag. It was built in the 50s. Set the B/FR record in '58. Had that clutch in it in '84 when I bought it.
I used an Girling slave cylinder from an MGB on a project in the '70's, on a Ford 4 speed, it's easy to make a bracket for. The first MGB was '62. An MGA might have the same thing and it's older. The English Girling hydraulic parts all look very similar in style, it's probably what the Jags have. Maybe look on an english car restoration parts site for examples? Edit - found a photo - http://store.cl***icgarage.com/mgmgbclslcy.html - says used since 1955.
My Model A roadster was built in 1959, and it has a hanging pedal and master cylinder ***embely from a 54 ford... and it uses a 57 ford F100 slave cylinder to PUSH the clutch arm. '57 283 with a toploader ford. Can't get any more traditional than that.
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