Hello all, this is my first post here so may take me a while to get used to this. Anyhow I have a 1948 dodge 1ton that has been swapped with a early 80s I believe Chevy 1 ton frame and will have a Chevy 350 in it as well. For the brake booster came across this from CCP and wondering how well they work compared to your regular booster. Just curious and sure will have more questions when I start building it. For now any input is appreciated, take care all. -Brady
Back in the 70's Lincolns had hydraboost systems and they had plenty of boost. Hydraulic brake equipped heavy diesel trucks also use hydraboost setups. They have and electric motor for backup ***ist rather than an ac***ulator.
Newer silver*do 3/4 tons all have them, I have one sitting on the shelf I pulled from a 2008, hydroboost, master, pedal, and firewall bracket to mount in something - sometime. Read up on your hose routing and make sure the power steering pump matches what the unit it spec'd for. Should be info on what caliper piston diameter to use as well.
Super easy to hook up. If not running power steering you run 2 return lines from the booster. Ya need a ps pump with 2 returns
I'm not quite sure I understand this. Without power steering I'd think you would just plumb the pump outlet to the hydraulic booster inlet. Then you'd plumb the booster outlet back to the p/s pump reservoir. What am I missing here?
Pressure line from the pump to the booster. The booster has a return line. Then use the pressure side that goes from the booster to the power steering pump as a return. With PS the flow goes from the pump to the booster. From the booster to the steering gear. Both the steering gear and booster has return lines
Do all hydro-boost systems have some "reserve" capacity like a vacuum booster, where in the event of the engine dying you have enough vacuum stored in the canister to get one or two ***isted brake applications, or are you totally reliant on foot power when the hydraulic pump quits?
It's too dark to go out and take a photo but my 77 Chevy 1 ton dually has a factory hydo boost on it and if you have a Chevy dually ch***is that is the way I would go. Brakes feel far better than any vacuum ***ist brakes and getting a matched to the ch***is unit solves several issues. The 77 is a work truck that works and not a pretty boy so it is a bit dirty under the hood but this shows the booster and master cylinder. I'd get the pump off the donor truck if i was snagging one out of a wrecking yard.
FWIW, I’d agree with Mr48. The hydroboost on my bird came from an Olds deisel car, and I think a lot of the aftermarket units are similar. So starting with one designed for your application would probably be a smart move. Mine has the small ac***ulator, the silver cylinder in the picture above. Stops ok at least once when the engine dies, but never had it happen at speed or downhill.
The (original) Bendix designed hydro-boost has a hydraulic ac***ulator that stores about 1500 psi of fluid, allowing several power brake applications after a pump/belt/engine failure before a complete loss of power ***ist.
Drum brakes don't require much pressure, compared to discs. And the larger the vehicle, the more pressure you need. I love manual drum brakes, and manual disc brakes on normal cars, but in this case he is better off with power.
That $500 price tag is great if ya want to spend it. My entire set up with new MS, hoses, pump..... was a lot less. I used a used booster. The Bendx boaters are a generic part used by several car brands. The difference is pushrod length on both ends. I used a booster from a Ford and a master cyl for a gm. I had both gm and ford MS pushrod set ups. I cut the booster push rod and threaded it. Used a rod end to hook it up the the pedal. I looked online for the hoses. I bought off the shelf pressure lines from Orelies. They had good pictures of the lines. There are 2 style fittings. 1980ish down is double flare. 1980ish up is O-ring. I looked up lines for c30 and c20 trucks. The only line I made was the return from the booster. The return from the steering box was off the shelf. I bought a Saginaw pump with 2 returns. You could add a return line but I needed a pump anyway. I wouldn’t recommend T ing the 2 return lines as it may increase pedal effort. The pump pushes volume. The pressure is made by the valving in the booster and steering box. The steering box has a byp***. The booster does not byp***. This is why you have issues if not running power steering. You can’t plug the line from the booster to the steering box. It has to return to the pump.
If buying a used one, get everything including the pedal ***y and all the pushrod parts. I even used the proportioning valve. Make sure the ac***ulator isn’t loose. Some are replaceable, some not.
You are CORRECT sir. I was picturing it as a single circuit running from the pump to the booster, the booster to the steering gear and from the steering gear back to the pump reservoir. There are, in fact, a couple more hoses involved in this plumbing job.
I have one from an 80's GM car. Been kicking around the garage for a while. Guess I should do some research and put it into use.
I have 2 setups. One with 4 lines and one with 3. (The one with 3 lines isn’t power steering) The trucks I robbed em from had 2 pressure and 2 returns. It technically would have more if ran with a PS cooler. I’ve never worked on the car versions.
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