I am tired of leaking header flanges

Your on the right track with the V-Band clamp. I don't think there are any Cheep ones out there but they are well worth the cost. Be sure to leave 1/8" over lap when welding them on. I've been using them for years now and wouldn't think of anything else. I also "Do not" use head to flange gaskets. I found a sealer like R.T.V but way better. It's made by Chrysler and only availoble at a dealer. It's Mopar Engine and Gear sealant. It's double Tough and heat don't touch it. When removing headers installed with this stuff you can remove all the bolts and you still need to cut through this stuff with a thin putty knife. Try it, you will not be dissapointed.
The Wizzard

 

V-band clamps would be the best way to go. For a more economical fix, Here is the donut we used on 2-1/2 dia headers.




https://www.theflangeman.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=FX600


The edge of the header and collector pipe sits about in the center of the taper on the donut. I've used these for about 25 years now, had a pickup truck taken to the shop for a trans rebuild, and they said they laughed when they took one pipe loose for room and the donut fell out. When they got putting it back together, they saw there were no leaks, and have been using the donuts themselves on header installations since.

Even if the flanges get deformed slightly from tightening hardware, the seal is against the pipe, not the flange, so they don't leak. And No RTV required

 

When you took C9's post out of context. All he said is that the ARP stainless fasteners exceed Grade 8. You took it out of context. Maybe if you worked on your reading comprehension. And maybe you need to do a little research on how fasteners are graded you'd see, as I pointed out, that there are plenty that exceed Grade 8. There ARE stainless fasteners that do exceed the strength of steel fasteners, particularly Grade 8. Just depends on which ones...

 

Yep, that's the stuff.

 

Use copper gaskets and Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone. Works every time. On a few cars I have used the Permatex with NO gaskets and it held up.

 

Wow, never have used Permatex Ultra Copper-looked too pretty. Sounds like it works much better than the red, and looks better. Works on engine parts too. If you have not done it, go back to damnfingers post and read the ad.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but ARP claims there SS bolts are rated 170,000psi, there ARP2000 [steel alloy ] bolts are rated 215,000 - 2000,000psi, and there L19 [steel also] is rated at 230,000 - 260,000psi. Pardon me but I just cant comprehend how 170,000 is stronger than 260,000. Can you comprehend those big numbers? JC

 

I like that they compare it to OEM specs. The Mopar sealant I'm using must be what they are referring to.
The Wizzard

 

i never had stock pipes. aftermarket chambers have a slip fit with a spring, and the intructions say use RTV

 

any set of headers i have had didnt leak till i went over a speed bump, then there bent and even though i fixed them they would hold for about a year and start leaking again, they were always just cheap one anyway, the best fix is to get rid of the joint by welding, if i ever buy another set i'm turning pipe to make my own flanges before i bolt them on, i'll use springs to hold them togather.

 

Are you using ultra strength bolts on you headers because you like to reef down on the bolt so it bends the flange? Or does the heat ruin normal grade bolts? I never had a problem using typical hardware so long as the flange was true and the bolt or nut didn't back off.

 

I've had more than my fair share. Spec II, Bassani, Micron, etc. All held on with springs. All with the stock Yamaha gaskets. I raced, built, and road two strokes for over 12 years with no problems on. I don't know what instructions you had but all mine said to use the stock gasket between the flange/stub and the cylinder. Nothing about RTV in the stub. The Bassani and the Microns were by far the cream of the crop as far as chambers went. Now if you want to talk Yamabond for cases, that stuff is the cat's meow.

 

I get 2 sets of mrgasket supercheapie paper gaskets, use 2 per side, soak in water, install tighten up and retighten ina couple days, forget about them for a couple years.

For the bottom collector gaskets use a gm steel doughtnut and forget about it too.
76 chevy sbc dumptrucks use the right one for most collectors, (I think, been a while since I had to look them up)

The reason to use stainless has nothing to do with clamping or shearing force, its about corrosion. If you are tightening down your bolts to the point that they are snapping off, you are fucking up!

 

One more vote for the V band clamps, its worth it.

 

Header flange gaskets have always been a pain, but I had bought a collecter gasket at a swap meet years ago but hadn't seen them since, it's two dimpled plates that sandwitch an asbestos donut, it works great, not for those turn 8,000 rpm i'm sure theres some restriction but for old guys who fought the battle for years its great. Better yet how about some Sanderson cast iron, I'm buying mine when I win the lotery, or I could have used the money I spent on gaskets over the years

 

Check this out. Been working on getting this product on the market.


or search "C Flange Bracket"
If u kno flanges, plz comment. Thx!

 

I neva considered aluminum.
Check this out. Been working on getting this product on the market.


or search "C Flange Bracket"
If u kno flanges, plz comment. Thx!

 

Earl's performance pressure master header gaskets. The best. Period. I run them on everything. Tighten them once and forget about them.

 

Moroso makes "dead soft" flange gaskets that are supposed to be very good. Hey weedburner, I like your idea, next time I need to pull my headers I am going to do what you suggest. I have had flange gasket issues in the past and switched to Earls #29D15ZERL, 3 bolt two and one half inch and the seem to be working great so far. They are thicker and seal well.