What ARE the differences between a 216 boat anchor and a 235 clunker motor? Both rod-chucking time bombs, for sure...but does one physically interchange with the other? Not that you could actually FIND a GOOD 235 anywhere near here or anything, but let's just suppose for the sake of argument that one fell outta the sky into my back yard...would it drop directly in place of the dead 216 or not? (Yeah, yeah, I know..."depends on where it was dropped from or how accurate the pilot was" ha ha!) I know that a Stovebolt motor would mean a top speed of 15-20 mph to keep it from decorating the pavement with oil, rods and pistons...but for a brief and muddy moment, I actually considered it as a VERY TEMPORARY band-aid till the V6 can claim it's rightfull throne! (If even one hole has to be drilled differently, or ANY amount of monkeyshine parts swappery is involved, the deal is off without question...I'll work hard to put a GOOD engine in the car, but unless a 235 is a direct bolt-in replacement, I wouldn't even think about it!) Where'd this stupidity come from? Two months till Billetproof, and if my car don't go...I don't go! I'd suffer through a few weeks of limping around a Stovebolt as a last resort if it came to that. (But once I'm ready for the V6...it'll get chucked faster than a rotten apple!) So, what's the word???
Hack, a 235 is a popular swap for these. There are some differances in motor mounts though. You may have to drill some holes in the front mount but a real easy swap, kinda of a 12 pack weekend thing.The 235 has better oilling.
Let me see if I have been paying attention the last week or so... You want a temporary engine in that chevy, before the temporary V6 goes in??
Hey Hack, check this link. The first part talks about mounts and parts interchange. If you go down farther on the page, it talks of an actual swap and the procedures. http://www.stovebolt.com/216-235.html
Why all the doggin' on the 6, yo? 52 and earlier 216 and 235s had dipper style oiling and would have problems if you were to wind them up, but 53-62 235s were full pressur oilers and do just fine. I drove my car with a 55 235 from Chicago to Lansing and went about 70mph the whole way with NO problems... well, not with the engine anyway. Some later 235s were side monted instead of front-mounted. All you need to do to correct that is drill 2 holes in the front plate. Simple, no? You would also need a short shaft water pump. That means you'd have to shorten the existing pump, buy a shortened one ($99), or get an adapter ($45) and an earlier stock short pump (a better option in case your pump takes a***** far from home... like mine did in Lansing) As for availability, you're not looking very hard. Everyone hates the poor lil' 6 so street rodder are always dumping them for SBCs. You can usually get them for free or close to it, and they're hard to kill, so chances are what you get will be good. Try the classifieds at Inliners.org or ChevyTalk.com joe
[/ QUOTE ] Ha Ha...yeah, that's about right!!! (When I really dig a car, I kind of enjoy building it more than once!!! ) [/ QUOTE ] I get that way with motorcycles.
[ QUOTE ] Two months till Billetproof, and if my car don't go...I don't go! [/ QUOTE ] what about the Blue******? You don't need that rust bucket car when you got wheels like that.
Yeah, why not just put the V6 in.... If you're missing a******* or something, find a complete wrecked running vehicle, I mean *any* vehicle that runs can donate a drivetrain, if you can weld and grind, and spend a little time, it can be a driver. Basic electrical is very easy. If your welding skills are lacking, find a friend who can. A driveshaft would be the most expensive proposition here, I believe. YOU CAN DO IT!!
Have you considered a Small Block Chevrolet engine. Very easy to get parts for,super dependable, and I'v heard It's an easy swap into those old Chevys. HAHAHAHAHAHHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHA I just couldn't help myselfhahahahahahaha You RULE HACK!
[ QUOTE ] I seemed to recall hearing somewhere that the 1954 235 engines were the most desirable for this swap, but I wouldn't be all that picky. [/ QUOTE ] The '54 pickup motors have the most desirable combination of features and ease of swap. Given your short-term desire, I don't think you'd gain much by being picky about the features, so basically the easiest swap is a pre-55. I sold a '54 pickup 235 last year. Lots of people looked and no one was willing to take it when I was offering it for free. I ended up 'selling' it for enough to cover what it cost me to deliver it. Someone above suggested the Stovebolt.com site. Check the swap meet area on that site and you may find someone near you with one they'd give away. Another option for a traditional car would be a GMC 270 or 302.
are the 235's that bad of a motor? just keep the RPM's down? I noticed you can usually get one fairly cheap, was considering turbocharging one, just for*****s N giggles... but now, Im not sure.
Pardon me FRIEND-But- am I not seeing the big picture here...why don't ya just put the 2.8 directly in and skip all the DISCO -rope-a-dope?
Hey HACK, I don't know how far it is from you, but I'll be at 696 and Gratiot tomorrow around 1 or 1:30-ish if you wanna snag those parts! (I could probably swing off of 75 or 696 if ya wanted to meet me at a certain exit or something...)
I saw this- ....a Model A that sat outside uncovered for 35 years....stuck like a rock.....put GLYCERIN on top of pistons let set clean up- repeat and hit pistons with block of hardwood and 5 pound hammer repeatedly spray with WD 40 finally came loose put head back on and it fired up!
Don't forget, I have my own "supersecretstash" of somewhat usable Stovebolts, some of which actually do run, or at least did when Donzie sold them to me. I figgered you'd see the light eventually. Jay
The Jalopy Journal
