this way you know it has a known good ground and a known good source of power straight from the battery, by-passing all other switches and wires in the car. we are testing the solenoid
man dont ever give up , its a serious anti H.A.M.B. thing , your surrounded by ladies and gents who dont even know the meaning of "i give up" looks like you got more help than you can shake a fuckin stick at !! trust it brother and feel the power!!
just beacuse its new doesn't mean shit! lets try one other thing. dis conect the wire from the small post, the wire that goes to the ignition switch just disconect it from the solenoid, now leave the ground on and try to hot wire it again with a wire from the positive side to the small post
if it still turns over slow, then i think you have a bad solenoid, or its not a 6 volt solenoid, for some reason the sombitch just ain't workin. if it has power and ground it should work. and you say that when you push the manual button on it it works right?
i am new to starter solenoids with with manual buttons on them as i have never seen one before ever. but i assume its a good feature incase the "s" post goes out you can still start the thing...........where did you get the noid?
still the same. remember that i have pos. ground. was looking at solenoid and cable going to starter is on side labeled batt. other side goes to batt.(-) is this right or is it backwards.
i'm pretty sure all the solenoid i have seen it does't matter whice side the batt and starter goes on as it just makes a connection, but flop the to wires and see if it makes a difference
oh wow i just realised what you wrote about the positive ground thing, it dosn't seem right about the cable going the the negitive side but i guess i can't claim to know anything about a positive ground system, i have never worked on one! that does't make since to me!!
what does positive ground mean? what happens if you hook it up back wards like the ground wire we were using, hook it up to the positive side and the run the hot wire from the small post to the neg side. what happens then?
ill keep working on it thanks so much for the help. tell you the truth i dont understand the pos ground thing either. the truck came like that so that is what im working with.here is the hotrod so you can see what im working on
Are you sure the solenoid is for a 6 volt system? It sounds like it isn't pulling hard enough to make a good connection to the starter. Jeff
Go back to the beginning. 1/ charge the battery. don't assume it is fully charged!! 2/ closely examine the battery positive cable and the battery earth cable. Both end terminals must be PERFECT no twisting of wires or bolt or crimp terminals. get them soldered. 3/ clean the earth connections wioth sand paper ,cleanliness is nest to electrical happiness. 4/ clean the battery positive connection . 5/ the car turns over wit the key so you had that part right BUT: have you connected the solonoid in the circuit (series) or is it next to the circuit (parrallel) you should have a hot lead connected to the same pole as the lead from the battery .This is your hot TO the key. because you have a 'turn over ' with the key you do nOT have a hot feed to the coil. turn the key on with the battery connected. Now test the connectors on the rear of the switch to find a hot lead. now turn the key OFF. Is this still live? If it is dead this is your hot connection for the coil {It will be 6/12 v so you may need to wire in a ballast resistor }keep checking until you have hot on/off lead for the ignition 6/ Is the solonoid bolted to a clean base without paint? 7/ Now,check the earth connection between the body and Chassis. 8/ haven't got one? make a cable to connect the body to the chassis and a cable to connect the engine to the chassis . 9/ Now .apart from a fualty starter, you should have a circuit which you complete by turning the key to energise the solonoid. The ignition circuit must be independent of the solonoid,it must get bit's power feed from the switch .
Fuckin' A Mercmad! There it is there. Glmke, copy and paste what he wrote, print it out and go out to the garage. Check off each one as you do it and you should be fine. I mean its 3 wires youre dealing with basically. There are only so many options. Keep up the good work. Next time you will be able to answer someone else with the same situation. Sorry I cant be more help, Ive never worked on a 6v system either
Comin' in late on this but Mecmad sure sounds like the real deal with this. My 2 cents say for goodness sake make sure the battery is charged and fluid level is up on it. 6V systems are very fussy with amount of power. And, like was mentioned, don't assume because it's a new solenoid that it's 100%. Also... is this a fresh engine? Is it still stiff from a rebuild? Take advantage of the help you were offered on the weekend by SlamCouver and his wiring guy. Make a coulple new contacts and share what you have/know. Doing online tech support is tough. No comparison to beinig there, but better than giving up. Love the truck. It looks about what I'm starting to build. Good luck
Again like the other guys said, make sure everything is clean and secure.Reverse the diagrams positive and negative and this should be it,unless that solenoid its bad.
Right on!! It sounds like the wrong solenoid to me but these are all good things to check. I wanted to add a little test I use when I suspect bad grounds. I take jumper cables, clamp one end to ground and the other to the body, or the engine. If it makes a difference make the cable. It's a quick and dirty test that saves time and eliminates the ground cables. I use this for headlights, turn signals acting goffy, starters not working.... I work second shift at work. One time I came to work and someone replaced a starter(truck starters are lots of $$$), batteries (3 1000 amp truck batteries=$$$$$) and the truck still wouldn't start. I took a jumper cable, clamped it from the battery to the engine block and it started great. Could have saved the mechanic 3 hours and the customer $1200.00 if the first mechanic would have done it in the first place. Try it... And good luck Before you get pissed off and sick of the whole project think of all you learned about the whole system. May save your ass some day you didn't park on a hill where you can push start it Jeff
It's cranking over so the solenoid is good. All 6v crank slow don't forget we usto crank them by hand. Check to see if you have spark at the plugs when cranking.
have you tried to check for voltage drop? if you take a volt meter and use it on top of the circuit and check the circuit for integrity. i.e. if you hold the red lead on the ground side of the battery and the black lead to the block and try to start it, it should show less than .5volt on the meter on a 12 volt system should be similar for a 6volt system. this test is done with the system as it sits NOT IN LINE. i have found a few odd ball wiring concerns with this simple test. use it on the grounds and power circuits to the starter and solinoid and from the switch . good luck
i think since its reverse polarity, what i was trying to do was still right but i was having him hook it up backards...so with reverse polarity in mind this is how i think it works, the mounting piece of the solenoid should be hot as with the cab,chasis, and block, now in order for the solenoid to turn on, the ignition switch should send a ground message to the small post thus it has power and ground just backwards from what it would normally be............does this sound right?
Now looking at your picture of the solenoid, you have the wrong one you'rs is a three post you need a 4 post. The two small post are start and ignition. The ignition runs from the solenoid to the coil bypassing the resistor. This is most important on a 6v system.
your right but the engine only turn over good when he manualy engages the solenoid, but electricaly the solenoid is not working. thats why i was trying to narrow it down to if it was a ground problem going to the solenoid or a power problem going to the solenoid, or both........if the engine turns over and starts when solenoid is manualy engaged then i think the cables are sufficient.
hey glmke are you confused yet. you wanted info now you got it. listen to these guys they do know what there takling about. try not to pull your eye balls out. they are just wires.
That is the wrong solenoid. if the wires get hot when cranking then they are to thin. to check the ground of the solenoid hook a test light to a pos. power source and ground it on the mounting bracket of the solenoid. it should light if the ground is good.
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