Does anyone know if one was made? Worst case I can source one with 1/2 inch studs if I can find a Dorman PN to change them to 7/16ths. Were any rears made like that? I’ve got a project cooking in my mind to use my lathe to turn a few drums. Thanks.
Not directly answering your question but this is the resource i use to find axles with compatable stud patterns https://www.wheel-size.com/pcd/5x5.5/
IIRC, only GM used 7/16" wheel studs, everybody else used 1/2". Or at least until they switched to metric, but the popular choice there is 12mm, which while smaller than 1/2" is still larger than 7/16". 5x5.5 - Bolt pattern | Wheel-Size.com I'm reasonably sure these will be either 1/2" or metric...
Steve nailed it, All GM (non metric) 5 on 5 axles or hubs run 1/2 inch studs. That is the difference between light duty and heavy duty on models like Impala, Caprice Olds 88 or Super 88 or 98. The 5 on 4-3/4 wheels and hubs were the light duty and the 5 on 5-1/2 were the heavy duty that also have larger brakes. that was mostly on 77/84 rear wheel drive full size. Prior to that Chevy for the most part had 5 on 4-3/4 except maybe some heavy duty brakes on big cars and Buick, Olds, Pontiac and Caddy big cars all had 5 on 5.5. There shouldn't be any reason or need to run 7/16 studs on the 5,5 pattern unless you have a bunch of fancy lug nuts you are trying to use. .
I think OP is wanting to make a jig to use on his lathe. Maybe he want’s smaller lugs to create an index into larger 1/2” holes that drums already have. At least that’s what my crystal ball suggest’s.
Yes, this is my plan of sorts. It’ll be my first attempt to locate and center the drum ( there’s other things involved a well) before I have to pay up for machine shop services to make what I’d really like to have made.
The drum should be piloted by the register hole unless you are boring the register in which case it should be secured by the ID of the drum. Do not believe using the stud holes would allow too much accuracy.
I’ll have to find time at work tonight and put pen to paper to give a visual of my plans. ****uming the bolt holes in the drum are registered properly, I think what I’m going to do will work.
Is this gonna be on a conventional lathe? if so, does your lathe have a face plate? I've done this. Just make a fixture the bolts to the face plate to mount the drums to. All you need to make that fixture is your lathe and a drill press. And it's best to make it so it contacts the drum as close to the outer circumference as possible, to keep flex and chatter to a minimum. Even so, the challenge you will most likely encounter is tool chatter. Most brake drum lathes use a rubber strap to dampen the vibrations. But some lathes won't turn at low enough speeds for even that to work.
I don’t have a face plate for it. I’d have to look again, but if I recall I can get to around 100rpms with the back gears. It’s a old Hendy lathe, it’s big, maybe 7 + feet long. The 4 jaw chuck on it now is maybe 15 inches In diameter. When I get off this OT kick at work I’ll get a 3 jaw mounted to back plate. Even if the jaws were touched up on the 4 jaw and trued, it won’t close down enough to hold an axle.
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