This damn Consul Capri's killing me, I've still gotta do the roof, hood, one door and one front fender and I'm getting sick of it. I need the name of a good paint stripper that actually works. The car's got three paint jobs on it including the factory one. The factory red primer's some tuff ****, stripper won't touch it but it sands off. The other two paint jobs are just turning into a gloppy mess. Thanks in advance for your tips. BTW, Krd Kutter's spray on de-ruster available from Home Depot is the best **** I've ever used, works great on surface rust and minor pitting.
It doesnt matter what brand you use stripper only attacks one layer at a time. Your just gonna have to work a little harder Ifr you havent yet you might try an auto paint supply store and buy some aircraft stripper. Its better **** but costly. Dave
Different colors and paint types come off differently. Like you mentioned, some just turn to a "gloppy mess". I have always used Aircraft Remover made by Klean-Strip and had good results on whatever paint I was removing. I just apply it generously, s****e it off with a putty knife, then use steel wool to get off the factory primer and whatever else is left. Be sure to use some good rubber gloves when using the steel wool. It will eat up your hands if you don't!
Who sells this Aircraft stripper? Can I get it at the auto parts store? I do all my shopping at Home Depot. Thanks for the advice. Now I know why people have their cars media blasted, I'm in way over $600 in labor alone and I'm not even done.
Some auto parts stores will have it, so will paint stores. Don't get it on you, it burns! I just did my 63 econoline and had to use 1 to 3 applications to get it all down, but way faster than sanding. About 30 bucks a gal, took 1 and 1/2 gal (60.00) to get it done.
If I remember correctly, I stripped my entire Chevelle that had been painted 4 times with 3 gallons of stripper in one night jambs and all. However, I did have a couple of friends helping and drinking a lot of beer.
Wal-Mart now sell Aircraft stripper. Only problem is they only sell it in small spray cans. Good to strip one part, not so good to strip a car. If you are going to strip an entire car go to any automotive paint supply store. Buy a gallon and a brush. Not cheap but not stupid expensive either. Works better than anything I've tried. As noted, it will burn your skin (not so bad you have to go to the hospital but you will feel it). Well ventilated area with gloves. Have access to a DA? I would strip the car and get the sticky fine grit discs for a DA. After stripping the heavy stuff just a quick hit with the DA will get the rest.
Nads....it helps if you sand the paint with co**** sandpaper, just scuff it. It helps the stripper get 'into' the paint.....
Damn! How much an hour are you paying yourself? As said, Klean-Strip Aircraft stripper. Take a rubber block with some 36 or 40 grit on it(unless you have a DA) and scuff the paint--it'll let the stripper get into the finish quicker. If the paint's REALLY thick, slop it on as thick as you can and cover it with a sheet of plastic. The plastic will keep the solvent's(?) from drying out and let it work longer. And DON'T brush it like you're painting a house---just load the brush, make a p*** and load the brush again for another swipe,
use aircraft stripper after hitting the paint real quick 36 grit to let the stripper get in. after you put the stripper on put a plastic bag over it to keep the solvents in. makes a huge difference with the plastic
about ten years ago I used to operate a plastic bead blaster..I could shoot a car to bare metal and put it in primer in less than a day..I would tape off all gl*** as beads are recyclable and impurities can break gl***..I've gotten quotes here lately of $600 to 800 to do whole car..plastic beads make surface smoooth as a babys ***, if you can afford it.....
Sweet bejeebus! That boat **** is $79.99 a gallon, whew! I got Aircraft stripper from Autozone, $29.99 gallon. I'll try it tonight. BTW, this baby's clean, other than one fender which had Bondo an inch thick, the previous 'bodyman' had made no attempt to take the dent out just slathered it with slonk. It was a mess, I got it straight though.
my old man restores antique furniture and he uses methalene chloride (stripper) and i take fenders hoods and whatever else over there and strip them in his tanks all the time.. works great. burns skin bad though...
I use aircraft stripper and plastic kitchen wrap. I glop/brush it on, wrap the surface, go drink a beer for a while. Glug. Glug. Beeellch....When I come back, I scrub the surface with really co**** 3M pad, then I rinse.
Wear gloves, goggles and an old windbreaker Nads, that aircraft stripper burns like a mofo, and keep a bucket of clean water handy to splash the areas on your skin the little drops get onto. I hate that ****, but it works. Heed the warning about going in one direction with the brush, it comes off much easier when there aren't globs of half hard paint sticking up.
That's because it works better than aircraft stripper......commercial boats (fishing, tugboats, barges,etc.) are subject to a harsher environment than a plane, so boat paint is tough stuff, but nasty and very toxic (I helped restore a tugboat years ago).....so the stripper to remove it is just as nasty, but works SO MUCH BETTER than cheapie Kleen-Strip from Home Depot.....
Aircraft Stripper combined with plastic worked like a charm, if it wasn't raining like a ***** and getting dark, I woulda had my roof done in about an hour. It ****s not having a garage. Thanks for all yer tips. BTW, why doesn't stripper melt plastic sheeting?
Lots of good suggestions, the key for any stipper is to not let it dry on the surface and remember to let the chemical do its magic before tryin to s****e it off.