I am trying to start my new barn find. 57 chevy 210. I have an original key switch wired to what looks like a voltage regulator, ballest, and some other device which I do not know what it is. When I turn the key off or to the left I get voltage to the coil. When I turn the key to the right the starter engages but I get no voltage at the coil. when I let the key rest to the right after engaging the starter I get no voltage at the coil. That is easy enough to figure out. I think the car was wired origionally as a + ground. I can hook up a momentary switch to engage the starter and leave the key turned to the left to run the motor. My question is if I get voltage at the coil does that eliminate the devices before the coil as the problem that causes the car not to fire. I have gas at the carb. I pulled the points and cleaned them up. I origionally did not get spark at the plug wire. I have not tryed to fire her up since I cleaned the points. Next question. What gap should I set the points to start with. I have what looks like a 70s era small block. ( 283 or 327). Next observation is when the key switch is turned to the run position to the right the gas gage turns on, and the turn signals will work. they will not work when the key is in the off position or in the right position. Anybody have any advice as to how to proceed? thanks Tom
I'd bypass the switch...sounds like something is screwed up in the switch as everything should work with the switch moving to the right...the only thing on the left would be 'accessory'...it wouldn't start that way. I don't know how anyone could wire it to a + ground...nothing would work then... R-
I read this about 10 times What I would do first, is trace back the wires on the ballast resistor. On one side, there should be one wire only; that should go to the IGN term on the key switch. The other side of the ballast could have two wires, or the "two wires" could be at the coil + side. Anyways, one of the wires goes from the output side of the ballast, to the Coil+. Then the other of the "two" goes from the outside small terminal of the starter solenoid marked I, back to either the coil+, or might be hooked to the output side of the ballast. What happens is: with key ON, the power to coil has to run across the ballast. When cranking, the full battery voltage goes from the outer small terminal on solenoid, up to feed the coil+. Right now, I don't get why the coil has power with key off, but not with key on. I think there are 2 seperate things wrong. Some of the Ign switch is working OK, so that's why I would back trace the ballast wires first. If it all checks out OK, then maybe disconnect the multi connector from the regulator. I suppose it could be back feeding power to the accy terminal on the key?
Looks like some hokey stuff was added to the wiring. The weird box above the voltage regulator might be an alarm or something? I have no idea. I'd probably want to take off all the non-original wiring, and spend some time staring at the factory assembly and shop manuals to figure out what should be there. Also looks like the alternator probably isn't wired up properly, it looks like the 63-72 style but is wired up like a one wire alt.
If you have a 70's 327 or 283 you have a rare piece! Chevy ended the 283 in 1967 and the 327 in 1969! The ignition switch could be bad, wired wrong etc. If you really just want to start it, run a wire from the + side of battery to the ballast resistor, from b/r to + on coil. Point gap .016. Start there.
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