Hot Rods I need more headlight!!

I'm really happy as is with my cheapo sealed beam halogens. It lights up the road in front of me and I'm not blinding oncoming traffic.

 

If you are using H4 halogen bulbs they are probably 55watt on low beam & 60watt on high beam. Aftermarket companies have H4 bulbs available that are 55watt on low beam & 100watt on high beam. The increase in light output on high beam is amazing & your total cost will be less than $20. Make sure you have about 13.8 volts or more at the headlight sockets with the lights turned on with the lights on high. When you test voltage it is absolutely necessary to still have the bulbs connected to the sockets. Have the engine revs at 1500 or more.Don't know if they are legal but they really do the job. Greg

 

Well that's true, but really the way to do that is the voltage drop test. This determines where the voltage is being lost in the wiring or connections.

Because voltage seeks the path of least resistance, we can use a voltmeter placed between any two connection points along the way. Set the range to its lowest setting, the voltage lost will then be displayed as a positive voltage with the headlights on. One probe on the negative battery post, the other on the negative terminal of the headlight itself for example will test the entire negative return path. Or we could test between the battery post and the connection at the solenoid, or solenoid to light switch etc. This will indicate how much actual voltage is being lost due to corrosion or loose connectors. 0.2 volts is considered acceptable, slightly more for the positive side. Of course it is cumulative.

This type of test is always done while under load, works for starter and charging circuits too. Handy and quick, easy and cheap and really works.

 

This will show TOTAL drop between those points, from ALL causes. Wire size affects voltage drop too, usually as much or more than poor connections. As an example, a 8' length of #14 with a 10 amp load will drop .2 volt through it's length. Increase the wire size to #10 with the same load, it's now down to .08 volt. That's a 60% reduction. I personally like to see a 5% TOTAL drop in any circuit (using battery voltage as the 'base'), so if battery voltage is 12.5 volts, anything below 11.9 would be too much drop. The OEM manufacturers will tolerate up to a 10% drop for some circuits, if you're seeing drops that big or bigger, you'll have issues...

 

I was looking for something else in my 1958 JC Whitney catalog, and ran across this....I guess relays for headlights were necessary back in the old days, too.

 

I must have one of those dual headlight conversions for a 57 Chevy.

 

Let me know when you going to order...

 

Aim the headlights up more, enough that some drivers will "flash" when you are on low beam. You won't be any more obnoxious than the lights on some of the new cars. If too many cars "flash" you, lower them a little.

 

You just need some canted quads....