Hi everyone, I just got out the hospital. That's why I have not been on. Six ***anium screws and 2 ***anium rods in L3 thru L5. It's been real tough. That's enough pain for two men. Then Physical Therapy. But I have 2 persistent problems with my 39 Chevy. It has a nine inch Ford and Weld Rodlites. The right rear lugs keep coming loose. I have nearly lost that wheel once. Last week I put 90 lbs. all the way around when I mounted the new Diamond Backs and today that right rear was loose again. Any of you guys run into this before? I have adjusted my kick-down linkage several times. Last weekend I put a new Holley where Q-Jet use to go and I cannot get the darn linkage to downshift. I think I just don't know where the slot is suppose to be on the throttle linkage. The adjustment procedure is clear. I have hand held it. Had my brother hold down the gas pedal in case there was a difference in travel. What am I doing wrong it's just a plain, tame TH350? And I bought those Accel shorty plugs to clear my headers. 20K coil calls for .035 gap. What should that gap be with a 50k coil? Guess I lost my touch, these things are making me crazy.
I was given a set of rear tires. First trip the lugs loosened. Stopped twice to tighten them on 35 mile trip to work. Changed tire, end of problem. So it was either out of round (my guess) or way out of balance. Don't run more than .035 gap.
I don't know what Bttt means. Thanks Phil1934. I'm Phil also. I thought I was going to hear that. Those tires are brand spanking new. I think I better check that axle.
If the wheel stud isnt new and hasnt seated, and your not stretching an old one....What Phil1934 said.
BTTT means "back to the top", as in top of the forum. I was just trying to get you some additional exposure so you could get some answers from some of the many qualified folks on here. Good luck and get well.
When that wheel nearly fell off I lost 2 studs and I was at a show. So I went to the closet auto parts bought studs and lugs and tried to seat them on the spot with a couple of lug nuts. Better I better use new studs all the way around and do it right.
Tires make lugs come loose? never heard that before. can that be true? is this a unique type of tire? don't mean to be a smart ***, just never heard of this. what about lug nut shank length, correct style of lug nut.
I have never heard of that before either especially on a rear. Those tires are just Cooper radials polished smooth on the outer side walls by Diamond Back for detail. They call them "smoothies". Nice set of tires really. They still have the tags on them,there can't be 10 miles on those tires. I drove to my brothers place then home. Got new center caps today and found them loose when I wen to put them on.
The problem with your lugs is those Damn Weld Wheels !! If they are the "TRUE" weld wheels that are 2pc with a aluminum spacer sandwhiched between the outers & welded to gether inside the tire area, They tend to FLEX and loosen the Lugs. I cant tell you why only 1 does it, But years ago i sold them at a Tire store i worked at & every once in awhile a Random wheel would keep coming loose. Replace the wheel on said car and problem went away. I even had a set of Weld DRAG STARS on a Plymouth Scamp and would have to re-torque the rears OFTEN. I would **** can the wheels and go a different route.
I have saw the same stuff go on as Rick.. just use a different set of wheels Last thing you want to do is loose one going down the road..
It's also conceivable that although you THINK you seated those two replacement studs from the parts house, that they did not fully pull through the flange and every time you tighten the lug nuts, they only tighten to the face of the wheel, not onto the stud itself, so in time, vibration...out of balance...aluminum spacer flex...whatever, will just exacerbate the problem. Pull the wheel completely off, and look to see if the stud has completely seated (no serrations/grooves showing0 on the back side of the flange. If you've already done all this - in the words of the late and inimitable Jane Curtin - 'never mind' dj
I believe you are absolutely right about those Welds. This car was a barn find. I have been slowly trying to modernize it. I fell in love with that deep chop and it's been uphill ever since.
and ignition fyi for everyone: just because your coil says 50k doesn't mean that's what it puts out. 50k is it's rated output but it never goes that high. it only takes about 30k to strike an arc in air and once the arch is started it takes amperage, not voltage, to drive the spark. electric arcs are actually subject to a phenomenon called negative resistance. more input voltage can actually reduce amperage and actually reduce the "strength" or heat of the spark. anyways, stick with your suggest plug gap unless using a high energy (amperage) ignition system.
Thanks Beef Stew. I had read in a Hop Up chevy book to increase the gap. But that makes sense to me. They maybe didn't put it the right context. One of Amazon specials for 5 bucks.
Need to torque at 100 lbs drive it 500 mi. then re-torque. That's what I was told when i bought a set. I didn't have any problems.
Happy Easter everybody. That Kickdown Linkage wasn't very popular I see. I have scoured the net found lots of advice. Here is my problem. I can adjust the thing easily enough. I just don't know how tight the slotted end on the linkage should be against the throttle linkage. I'm not sure that's clear. When the throttle is near wide open should the slot on the linkage be tight to the pin. Then followed by adjustment? I don't know if that's clear. Everything I have read tells me what I want to know except the distance to the pin on the slotted linkage. I should have snapped a picture.
When the throttle is wide open the kick down cable should be pulled out to its max and be tight against the pin.
Desoto has put you on the right track, but I have come across the problem due to the shoulder on the lug nut being to long. When you tighten the wheel the lug shoulder bottoms on the drum before completely tightening the wheel enough to compress the center piece in the wheel. Take a couple of nuts and bolts (1/2 in.) and install either side of a lug hole. Tighten them up and insert one of your shouldered lugs through the hole between them. If it's to long machine a little off the lug shoulders and you'll be fine.
Been using those sandwich constructed welds for a long time on street/strip cars and never had an issue as long as the studs and lugs are in good shape and correct dimensionally. I run relatively low torques and slather with antiseize. You'd think if somebody was gonna have a problem, it'd be me. So put another vote on check the shank length and stud seating. The other thing is they are a paper thin race wheel and easily damaged compared to most street wheels. A careless tire installer will ruin one in a hurry, and they're so thin the obvious damage can be bent back before the customer knows. If you don't have to have that style, and you don't require a super lightweight rim for speed reasons.......there's better rims out there for your app. And those welds will trade for decent money to boot.
Ran them on this for a while, had the same issue. The car mainly did 1/4 mile at a time so it wasnt too bad. Sold it to a guy that ran steelies on th back and he never had a problem. Doc. PS, we have a lot in common, I broke my back too, T10-11-12 and L4-5!
On the wheel thing: I ***ume your 9 inch is a drum brake rear. Are there rivets on the drum that might be causing the wheel to not be able to seat squarely? I ask because when I was younger I had a '59 Chevy p'up and put chrome reverses on the front. I lost one wheel in less than 20 miles, but I broke all five studs too. It seems the wheel face was riding on the drum rivets. I'm just wondering if your drum isn't true on its face? Something to look at.
PS, the centers on mine looked like they crushed, and without too much pressure either! The aluminium sandwiched in them isn't honeycomb are they?
Thanks MBog, That's what I thought, if I disconnect it and pull on it will I feel a shift in the trans while the car isn't running?
Every car I've owned I have increased the plug gap and had better starting and smoother idle.Hei usually will take .020 to .030 gap points .010 to .020 increase. With your torque figures on wheel studs is that dry.
It's gotta be those sandwich Welds, I think ***uring the studs seat properly is the trick. I have 90lbs on them dare I go more? And I used anti-seize maybe that was a bad idea.
90 pounds and anti seize are stretching the **** out of the studs,with antiseize torque must be reduced. Please replace all the studs
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