Art & Inspiration i need tips to paint flat black

hey movinman thanks and maybe i will maybe not ill just have to see but thanks

 

I say do what you want, I like flat black on any type of car. You cant tell me this doesn't look mean:

 

aw hell ya man is that a 65 shelby or just a stang and do u no what type of flat black that is it looks really good i want something like that real smooth

 

Real smooth? Like the different texture/color on the fender & door? Or real smooth like the spray lines on the front fender?

"Real" smooth is better known as GLOSS.

 

sherwin williams hot rod black with a quart of flatner

 

shifty looks real nice i mean

 

Best tip....
shake the cans really good,LOL!!!!!!

 

Ace hardware store satin black in the large spray cans.... still a little glossy... after a couple days, buff down with a damp rag and medium cut rubbing compound, by hand. Gives a nice old finish.....

 

I cant control what other people say, and wouldnt want to if I could, but some of these comments are plain ridiculous.

He's 15, and he deserves to have some slack cut to him. I couldnt care less if he uses the word rat. Yes, to some people "rat" means shitty and cobbled together, but to other people it just means a car that is in flat paint. Lots of cars are in flat paint. By saying rat, he isnt saying piece of shit.

Flat paint seems to be a booming fad. It will go away. If he likes stuff with flat paint, so be it, thats his own choice and taste. Let him paint his truck flat, at least hes working on cars, and an actual old car with potential cool at that. He should be encouraged, not cut down and discouraged. He isnt a fool just because he wants flat black, that is just where his personal style fits at the moment.

If flat is what you want, and if you want to do it cheaply and have it look decent, I would stay away from rattle cans. Take the advice already given, and go with john deere Blitz Black. If you have a local john deere dealer, they will have it, otherwise im sure you can find it online.

The final outcome of your paintwork all depends on the bodywork and surface underneath it (which im sure you know). If you sand and grind it down very smoothly, your paint will look uniform and smooth, which is what you want.

And if the paint on the pickup is old and damaged/coming off, I would absolutely recommend taking the finish down to bare metal and them priming/filler priming.

 

Hey 93chevy55,
I used John Deere semi gloss black mixed with flatener at a ratio of 4 parts paint to 1 part flatener. the John Deere paint was about $21 a gallon and I forget what the flatener was. The dupont hot hues is real PRICY. I have had the paint on my truck for 3 years and looks as good today as the day it was put on. I am all about saving money and still having a product that holds up in the weather. Good luck.
Later,
Dick

 

Paint it the color you want... a cheap epoxy primer that u can mix yourself to the color you want is U-pol color matched... it sprays very good when mixed properly.. plus you can make it black and add tints of blue or red or whatever color u choose

 

Like a blind man at an orgy, feel your way through it. Do what you like and don't look back. I think that is one of the biggest ideas of the whole car culture, FREEDOM!

 

hell, you want the rat rod look? simple, sand it to the metal, leave in in the rain watch it rust, hit it with a hammer a few time, pee on it, get really really drunk
then grab you a box of rattle cans ( random colors) and just spray till you run out of paint or pass out and wallah!! you got you a "rat rod"

 

is that for real? lol

 

hey guys thanks for all the tips and road kill pu it looks real good and brigs ya all the paint is keep coming off so i was gona plan on striping the whole thing and repainting it ill send u some pics when i get there and thanks again guys

 

if the body is straight and no rust strip it down choose what ever color u want and paint it flat black is ol school but how bout sumthing in sude???choose a base color and buy u sum 5 star flat clear that way it still flat still gots that ol school look thats just my opinion

 

The problem with rattle cans and some of those CHEAP enamels , is that when you want to do a real paint job you can't go over them with real products in most cases if you wanted to. so it's best to use the good stuff and save yourself the trouble of stripping all off again. on my 52 we stripped it down the hit it with a couple coats of diamont epoxy prime (it's like glue) then went over it with house of kolor black sealer. now I have a good base to go back over when I'm ready to finish it right. You can do body work,and or paint work over the top of it. My 2cents. Good luck

 

Come on give the kid the help on the paint ,I cant paint but I will tell you one thing learn how to weld body panels before you paint it bondo and fiberglass pathing is totally wrong

 

I did the insides of my model A fenders that had been sandblasted , with Fleet Farm enamel and with hardner and sprayed the first coat fairly heavy and come back and thined down the second coat and it went on very smooth used a lot higher air pressure and that was my first time painting with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun and I am gonna try to do some cheep customs with the straight enamel and save the $500 in paint

some of the auto parts store have a cheep line of implement paint and it may have more colors available My Auto Value has some but it is more costly

Of course if is a crash and thrash thats the way to do it

If it is something that is going to be updated, go with the good materials like others suggested

I learned how to paint in Viet Nam, gasoline for thinner, a lot of black and some OD and lets paint a truck today, with 4 people on them it went fast

 

Sounds good man, I'll look forward to it.

 

If it was my truck I'd flake the hell out of it with a killer golden candy. Bury that flake in there real deep. That'll be one sick bomb.

 

I am no pro painter but have been through your age and painted a few cars then so here goes....

1. You might not have money but you have something just as valuable ..TIME. Use those free teenage hours to get educated. Experiment.
2. If you mess up who cares. The best people in any business have learned from personal experience.
3. Get tight with a local paint supply house. When you hit the right guy he will guide you in his products.
4. Check on web sites. Wish I had this when I was young. Paint supply sites have a lot of great info on use of there products. Print it out and take them to the crapper and read over and over.
5. Get friendly with a body guy and find out when they are having a local product show or site trainings. Sneak in and use your ears not your Mouth.
6. People like and have luck with different products. I personally liked and used PPG products. But Dupont was big in our area but I had terrible luck with it. Find something you like.
7. If you just want to do something on the cheap try like everyone said with the Tractor paint. We have Tractor Supplies near me and they carry Valspar Tractor Implement Low Gloss Black with Hardener. Read the cans and follow the directions to a "T". Cheap at like $25 a gallon and about 10 for the Hardener. Look at places like this in your area.
8. Buy a GOOD Gun. Stay away from supporting the Chinese Military. This is way important. You dont have to by new, look at auctions and Craigslist. My Sharpe is 30 years old and works just like the day I bought it. I have only change 2 O rings in that Time. Keep it Spotless.
9. Remember Clean , Clean and Clean. Watch your Handoils . Dont touch.
10. Buy a Good waterseperator for you Compressor. Have a Filter and Regulator at the Gun.
11. Watch product compatibility....

You are so far ahead of you classmates with what you are doing. I am proud of you and dont even know you. Believe it or not . Doing crap like this will help you in everyday life when you get older. Stay away from the Video games and stay in the Garage. They are times you will alway cherish.
Experiment and do different things. You will have woopsies but you will laugh at it when your old

 

ya i already no how to weld welded the cab corners in got em straight next jus gotta put the bondo on it to smooth it out i have the pics on my pro and thanks man

 

lz hey man thanks will do

 

and everyone else thanks for all the help all u guys helpin me out a ton thanks guys alot

 

thanks ..im not neg on anybodys shit no matter how fucked up it is we all on this fourm because we like the same shit maybe if you knew the story on this car you would look at it diffrent.. i know its not 50s but it was a cheap way out to get it on the road i got under 200 in everything ...and the car was given to my wife by here dead grandma ..so i had to do some thing with it cheap ..

 

Reading this post, some of you guys have really taken this young fella under your wing. Some of you others, well I guess you figure if he don't think like you, he's gotta be stupid. This young man is showing he's a long way from being a dumb sheep and letting others do his thinking for him. He's in the right place, and he's gonna be OK. With a little bit of talent and a great desire to learn, he'll do anything he chooses to do , and do it well. Most of all, he is asking us older guys, (and some of us geezers) for advice. He's showing me that he has knowledge beyond his years. Hang in there, son. You're gonna make it............

 

ole pork thanks man realy man that means alot and your right i do want to learn and thats all i really want its probly one of the things that make me happy. and probly the thing i love the most thanks again man means alot

 

i don't have the time to read through all the B.S. so i don't know if anyone has given a serious or legitimate answer yet so i'll do my best to do so.
let me first say that i'm with the people who's skin crawls when somebody mentions the term "rat rod". at first i thought it was a cool term but the more i learned the more i realized it is a derogatory term when used on something that is (or is at least intended to be) a nice hot rod that just happens to not be shiny... ok opinions and B.S. aside...

you realy want something that is catalized. that means it has a hardener. you can get catalized primers so that is one route. the other is to use a regular base coat paint (any color) and then add a flattening agent to the clear coat. they way i understand it you can go anywhere from semi-gloss to dead flat if you go that route by just adding more to the clear... the reason you want it to be catalized is so that the finish does not soak up moisture. regular primer will soak up moister and bring it to the surface (the metal). that is BAD. moisture and metal make rust and rust under the finish will RUIN any work you have done on top of it. that how you often get blistered paint and bondo bubbles.
my suggestion. take an autobody class and LISTEN to the instructor. take in all you can learn and keep your mind OPEN! i was 15 when i took my first autobody class. i've taken a dozen since then. i've learned something every time, plus it's nice to have that wide open space to work in and all the tools you need. i also work better when others are around me. it's that creative vibe or something.

check your local tech centers and community colleges. find some place to take classes. maybe talk to some local body guys and see if you can get a job sweepin floors or something. the pay is'nt important, offer to do it for free. what your looking for is knowledge. that is the best pay you will ever recieve. let them know that you are eager to learn. after some trust has been built perhaps you will be allowed to use the shop after hours. you won't learn this shit overnight so be patient... if i were'nt 90 minutes away i'd put your ass to work. i've got years worth of project sittin here waiting for some attention.

good luck kid, and never forget to keep an open mind!

 

thanks man for the tips