I prolly already know the answer but do you weld your floor

If I am just dropping in a patch I will butt weld it solid. If you can go from one side of the floor to the tunnel and make it look like a factory seam, overlap and spot weld it. I have left a 2 inch lip on the side at the rockers and the front of the rear seat riser and dropped a complete used floorpan in and overlapped it and spot welded it and it looked original. Same for the trunk pan. All old cars were spot welded, but their floor pans generally went from the rocker on one side to the rocker on the other side. Nothing looks tackier underneath than a patch with ragged edges that you rip your skin on. Plan ahead so your patch weld in over top of a body support or something that will hide it and overlapping is fine. That spray weldthru stuff T-man is talking about works great.

 

Here's a pic of mine. I need to spray another coat of undercoating to even it out a bit.

 

Two questions, WHere do you get weld thru primer as I am getting ready like several others to start my patches and what thickness do you recommend for front floor (seat bracing area is great) and I have to rebuild the rear door opening rear fender well. (area between door and rear tire that is about 5 inches wide). Should I use 18, 20 or 22 gage..(18 would probably be best but I am not sure what cars of the 50's had stock

thanks

 

Weld thru primer is available at welding supplies or body shop supply houses...you can get spray bomb or brush on application.


As far as metal thickness...use what the factory did....heavier rather than lighter if you want.