Did an oil change on the roadsters Big Block Olds and I took it out for a blast and the seal on top of the filter blew and I lost 4 quarts in a hurry... I didn't notice it until my oil pressure dropped to 5 pounds. I shut it down and ran to a filling station and added the 4 quarts and restarted the engine and notice an occasional fluctuation in the oil pressure gauge. I'm soo screwed if it spun a bearing... my summer would be over...! Am I over reacting??? Suggestions??? Because if I have to change the bearings I'd want to turn the crank as well to clean it up...! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
um, that ****s pretty bad. if the pressure is fluctuating I think you're screwed. you can try draining what's in there now and cutting the oil filter open to see how much metal comes out.
Did you change the filter? Did you dump any additive in that may have plugged the filter? If so change the oil and filter and try it. If it isn't a plugged filter from some slime you dumped in it not your screwed. The Olds really dosn't like rpms, you know that?
******! Sorry if it is hurt, but just think how cool a P&W R-4360-4 Wasp Major wuld be, yeah baby 28 cylinder 3,000hp...................
I know where there is an F2G-1 in Seattle, hey its only static, why's it need a motor? http://www.museumofflight.org/Collection/Aircraft.asp?RecordKey=6A15B017-325E-4A52-A5D7-C12E95AEC233
Personally, I wouldn't panic just yet. I bet there will be plenty of people that will say that they had a similar problem and caught it soon enough to prevent any terminal damage. "and notice an occasional fluctuation in the oil pressure gauge."...what does that mean exactly. The gauge goes to zero? You have 40#s that sometimes falls to 35 and immediately returns? I can't think of a way that your accident could cause an "occasional fluctuation." An occasional fluctuation isn't necessarily terminal. The one time I "spun a bearing" the engine locked up. There was no restarting it. Any knocks or new unusual sounds? It sounds to me like you caught it in time if you had 5# when you shut it down. That means the bearings were still getting oil. Relax take a deep breath and see how things go.
I agree with Tommy, I had a valve keeper splite in half and wound up in the oil pump and locked it up. I did not see it in time and ran it for I don't know a couple seconds. Pulled the pan and replaced the oil pump and looked at the last main and rod brg, I thought that if they were good the front would be. Just took a little babit off the brg other than that it was good put the pan back on fires it up and is still running 5 years later. Also replaced all them dam keepers to, I think you will be ok you still had 5 psi on the gauge I have heard that people have ran engine's on as little as 5 to 10 psi of oil pressure ( Don't beat me up to bad just heard of it not saying it is true). I think if your oil pressure is good when the engine is warm lets say 40 to 60 psi and when you are driving under a load and it drops under a load the the brgs are getting bad.
my motor in one of my trucks has a oil pressure problem at idle its 10p.s.i. runnimg down the road its 40p.s.i. been that way for about a year now.
I ran the original motor in my Olds like that before dropping the new 350 in it. Back and forth from home to college, I'd get off the highway and come to the stop light, stick in in neutral and rev it up before the PSI dropped below 10 still ran like a champ though.
Good luck. Remember, after dumping 4 quarts in and firing it, there still might not have been a wealth of oil in the pan to pump. Might have been stuck in the heads, and on the way down, causing spikes in pressure until the oil warmed up and refilled the filter, galleys and such. If you really kept 5 psi, you'll hopefully be ok.
When you freak out and watch a gauge real close, you'll see all kinds of fluctuation never noticed before. Pulled into a buddy's house once and he's leaning under the hood revving up his built 350 chev. Asked what he's up to and he gives a big laundry list including an oil change. At this point I notice both the oil drain pan, and oil bottles sitting on the ground. I point out all the bottles are full. His face goes white and shuts the car off ASAP. It'd been running for 5 minutes without any oil other than what was poured in the filter. That engine ultimately lived in a half dozen cars without a complaint, ran hard. good luck
Easy, Chicken Little! The sky isn't falling Yet! Here is what is going on, and what You will have to do to fix it. The oil filter ring blew off for 2 reasons-number 1, Olds filter adapters **** and number 2, everyones gaskets except for 2 ****. What happened? The filter Byp*** in these adapters like to get stuck. ALOT. what that does is "dead head" the pressure at the damn filter, and if You are running a "run of the mill" filter, presto! brown blood on the highway. The fluctuations You are seeing in the needle is that stupid valve acting up. Ask Mr.Ford about my dumping a full 8 quarts of Royal Purple into the parking lot of a bar he used to work at one night....Looked like the e**on Valdez pulled in for a beer..... HOW TO FIX IT. number 1- pull the adapter off the block. Yes, I know it is a pain in the *** to find that gasket, but You godda do whacha godda do. number 2. see that little guy that looks like a tiny hockey puck in there? He is You enemy. remove him and his buddies the weak **** spring and Mr. C clip ( which I am sure was already somewhere out in the Yard.) Number 3. Take thyself to a store with a wide ***ortment of Taps,and allen head pipe plugs. Tap the hole ( I think it's 3/8...been a while) and cram a recessed head pipe plug in there. A good coating of Loc***e probably ain't a real bad idea, either. number 4. Take thyself to ...autozone. The filter You are looking for, but probably won't find is a M1-203. They are selling this number (it's a mobil 1 filter) for 1 cent until they are out of back stock. buy a bunch if they have them. k&n also makes a decent performance filter for olds. The problem lies in the gasket area...most of the ones avalible have a really thin gasket at the top. k&n and Mobl 1 have a wider, thicker gasket which is less likely to puke it's guts out over 3000 r.p.m. Once You are done, expect to see a 10 to 15 pound increase in oil pressure- no worries. I also get a touch of "wiggle" in my guage, but I have it plumbed with Br***, and have solid lifters, so there is gonna be some fluctuations. removing the filter byp*** doesn't actually increase the pressure so much as it keeps it from bleeding off back into the pan. when You're done...congratulations! You just did 2 things. you made sure all the oil in the system makes it through the filter and You just aleviated most of the "flutter" scenario. Cheers! Lux
Mark, I had the same problem in my boat a few years back when my rev limiter didn't work when I came out of the water. It lasted the rest of the boatdrag season and then it cut loose the rest of the way. The roadster is easy to pull the motor and or pan and take a quick look. It might just be some junk in the pressure line too. I'll have to go back to Utube and see how you keep fresh tires on the car...............
Well I found the culprits which were simple fixes but could've become VERY costly..! First... one layer of the purolator filter gasket didn't come off the engine before I put the new Fram in place. I drained all the oil again and there was minimal metal flake in the pan... but I've seen worse. Next I thouroghly cleaned off the filter fitting and removed the rest of the Purolator gasket and installed another Fram filter and refilled the engine with 15w-50 Demson's Everoil Racing full synthetic. Now I normally remain very calm about things like this because I had damaged other engines far worse than this and drove them hard for a year or two... however... that fricken gauge was all over the place... from Zero to sixty P.S.I and when that happens... it usually means that there is a "Spun" bearing in the rotating ***embly....!!! So I investigated a little further and discovered that my oil pressure sending unit wire was very loose!!! So I tightened up the wire... Started it up and oil pressure remains steady. Thanks for all the help guys!
I would get rid of that Fram Filter too good thing you found the problem..but that filter is another problem waiting to happen. there are threads on here as to why i say this.
Thats one reason why I never run electrical sending unit temp/oil pressure gauges. That rules that your motor isn't toast.
there was a lot about it here about 2 months ago..and after seeing how they are made..I will never buy another one. guess some guys with big H.P. motors drag racing..high volume pumps ****ing the filter media up to the point of starvation? something like that.. im sure the new search function should find something about it... Really though after seeing how cheap ***ed they are inside i will never buy another one..I think the good one was Mobile 1..and not to mention the ability to filter was better with any other brand than FRAM..im no expert im just p***ing on the word..so dont shoot the messenger..do what ever you want. Im not going to take a chance on something so inexpensive and easy to change.
just cheap insurance wingnutz..thought you should know..after reading about your issue and that you put back on a fram..you do what you want..Ive stopped using them..a few more bucks isnt worth a screwed up motor and you have already had one scare.
One related word of caution...use the book to select a filter. Not all filters are made the same inside. I had an employee change the oil on 2 identical Toyota's. We didn't have the correct filters so he matched up the thread and gasket. Yep it blew off. The dumb lot boy drove it with no oil pressure and knocking like hell until it locked up. The other one was only driven a few miles and we corrected the problem before it blew up. Just because the thread and gasket work doesn't mean it will work.
We do oil changes here at the shop Mark. We even check the air in yer tires and top up the washer fluid, but in your case I'll just dump some on the windshield. I've pulled more Fram gaskets off of blocks than any other brand hands down. No ****. Seriously glad the mill's okay tho...........
whew! Glad you dodged a bullet there. I agree about the filter. I use Wix and sell a ton of Wix filters to engine builders all over the country. The K&N are good too... but THEY ARENT REUSABLE like the air filters. (I feel the need to say that because I've had more than one person think they were)
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