In my defense, the alternator wire is 8ga., done it several times, paying close attention to the wire getting overheated, without a problem. I could see if you would crank on it for a long period, but my engine always lights right off. I fully understand what you all are saying. Mitch
I have a friend who actually lost a nice '32 5 window when he tossed a can of starting fluid in through an open window. It exploded when it hit a battery terminal, and the car burned to a crisp. Yes, someone would be overjoyed to have the remains today, but things were different 50 years ago.
Ye could look for a "vintage" old tool box or tackle box or vintage Coca Cola cooler and mount it in the truck bed with the battery inside! Battery box BEHIND the seat (instead of lifting the seat just fold the back forward) Build a wooden box from the same material as the truck bed and put it in there. I really like the remote lugs idea too!!
This is a pic of my bed under construction. The battery is recessed as much as possible and I laid up a fibergl*** cover to hide it. I have jump-started someone else in need, but I just hooked the positive to my starter stud (hoodless and fenderless so it is easy). Gary
1/4 inch plywood, thinner abs, etc under the seat? Seems simple it’s to overcome. Hey, I added to my post count too!
Just a thought. Not usually in our stable house but many, many 50s and 60s era euro cars had the battery under the seat. Some under the back seat (think beetle bug here). I was around back then and I do not recall it really being an issue. Personally I do not like the idea of having the battery in the cab. Exploding hydrogen gas comes to mind. But it has been done and redone that way.
Ok first of all thank you for the funny responses and great information. The reason I ask is like that old saying measure twice cut once. I have put bucket seats in my 26. The frames are bolted to the floor. So if the battery went dead like it did it was a pain. I kind of like the idea of remote lugs. Do you think I can't the remote behind the seats? I don't like the battery out in the open in the bed. The advice on the carpet width a shield so no zapping is great. I am going to see how much real estate I have. One question since it's a 4 speed car can I jump it off the starter? Oh well measure twice cut once I guess. Thanks Jerry
Ok I am just having a senior moment. My car has a ford solenoid mounted on the firewall. In a pinch I can jump car with jumper cables one to the solenoid and the ground to the engine or good ground. I am thinking of idea’s since I don’t have a lot of space. If that fails I could put remote lugs in the back of bed where I initially was going tout the battery? Thanks Jerry
Use a rod coupler instead of a nut to attach the battery cable to the solenoid. That will give you an easy place to connect a jumper cable.
I have a small Odyssey battery under the dash of my coupe kill switch is nearby they usually last 10 years
All my Packard restorations had a metal cover over the battery under the driver's seat. To be fair those batteries were freakin huge and hd to be hefted up from below, or have a helper strap it up while down below you did the base plate. Worried? Glue a small sheet of rubber or thin closed cell foam to the metal cover. Leave a lid edge exposed to help center it. Just sayin...
Heck, my Jaguare has the battery under the back seat and it's an almost new car. The #2 battery is in the trunk. There goes my post count again.
My current project has the battery box under the dash on the p*** side firewall. It won't stay that way but we own hot rods and do what is necessary to package everything. You only get one box and you have to fit all the components in it. Lots of vehicles warn against jump starting. The wife's Silverado came with a warning against jump starting period. I asked the service manager about it, there is nothing special about the battery. he said that there is a separate computer in the charging circuit. The computer is not pricey, but getting it flashed was over 900 dollars. Jump starting is a little more dangerous than we give it credit for. Aside from destroying parts and pieces. We do it and seldom get hurt but ignorance is bliss and sometimes we are just blissful. I bought an NHRA regulated explosion proof battery box a couple of years ago, a car that I was putting on the track for a fella. All aluminum construction. The trick to keeping everything in one piece is keeping everything tied down. A bungee cord will work but a proper tied down works better. Doesn't it.
Battery in a metal box under the seat. Jumper terminals out to the panel under the front of the box. (sorry about the picture quality) A remote disconnect switch hidden. Plug-in leads stored in the glove box. QED
I hope it didn't sound like the Packard batteries were strapped in. I meant somebody had to be inside with a battery lift strap to hold it up while the plate bolts up below. They had 2 rods that the top of the battery would rest in.
Battery in the bed, mounted down so it doesn't move around. I built a metal box around it with a removable top. There is clearance all around the battery. Instead of a metal box, you could use about anything that is larger then the battery, just have everything bolted down and have clearance around the + post. Under the hood I have remote battery posts, but if you have a Ford starter solenoid, that would work as a jumper point for the + and then hook a good ground on the motor block
ok just for repeating. with a ford solenoid on my car if I have a dead battery under the seat I use jumper battery and hook up positive to the side that goes to the starter. and ground goes to unpainted part on motor. then start car with the key? thanks jerry
Yes, but (obviously) the cable needs to go to the side that is connected to the battery. I know you knew that, but wanted to make sure.
About a dozen years ago a friend was working in his garage under his 48 Chevy pickup he had built around 30 years prior. He looked out the open garage door and saw smoke. The battery was behind the seat in the cab and had shorted out and was burning the interior. He eventually got the fire out, but ended up having to redo the entire truck as the cab paint was toast, wiring, windows, interior, etc. He could have lost everything including himself. My batteries are never in the cab, always easily accessible, and I try to keep them away from combustibles.
After reading all the responses I’m putting the battery in the bed. I don’t have room in the engine compartment. And I really don’t like the battery in the p***enger compartment. I like easy access to my battery. The only problem is the battery is out in the open. My wife realistically how many times are you going to leave it alone. Thank you for all the advice. Actually my 1955 ford f100 has a battery in the floor and will put remote lug. Or just jump it off the ord solenoid and yes I read and will jump it off the battery side. Thanks everyone Thank you Jerry
Well, if going in the bed, will it be on top, or under an access cover? Either way, you should have access to jump directly to the battery if needed. Now if under an access cover and you have stuff that would to be unloaded, or even in a box on top and it needs to be unloaded to get to the battery, then yes, use the solenoid. Otherwise, just use the battery.
I had the battery in the bed of my truck for a few years... looking back I can't think of the reason I did it other than I had the cable and box from another car. never had any issues, and the truck was outside 100% of the time I owned it. it was just one of those basic plastic battery boxes you can buy at the parts store.
This is excellent. 'Rod coupler' can be a long hex nut, and thread size, all available. It's a 'tall nut', (for the 'unwashed')
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