Technical I think I went too low…40 ford 5 window

I’m so close to my car moving on its own power! But I hit a snag (of course). I installed all of the sheet metal and it looks like my front tires are going to hit the fenders when turning. I think I went too low. I love the look but I want it to be drivable. I need to raise about 2 inches. Specs below. Is it as simple as going to a different spring? I’m open to buying smaller tires but raising the front a little actually helps the overall stance. If I do t raise front, I’ll need to drop the rear a little more. Too much rake currently.

40 ford
Posies super slide kit (or whatever it’s called)
I think it’s a dropped axle AND reverse eye spring. 5.5x16 tires in front, 7.0x16 on rear.

I do plan to call posies Monday too but figured I’d start here.

 

Nice looking 40.
The reverse eye spring lowers your 40 one inch. Install OEM spring to raise it 1 inch.
How much "drop" was built into the dropped axle and was it also made narrower for fender clearance?
For instance, the Magnum dropped axle is 3/4 in narrower than stock.

 

From the looks department, I would say you nailed it.

 

Looks almost too high now.
Front wheel the stock offset?
A different offset wheel eould tuck the tire in closer and allow the drop to work
Maybe

Hmmmmm

 

Changing the wheel offset is a great idea and easiest thing to do.
Get an old rim, remove the rivets and give it a try.

 

Here's a thread that may help with good info.
1940 ford deluxe rims and tires | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

I like the wheel idea. Maybe a combo of wheel and spring. Does anyone make a stock looki g 16” wheel that you can order with custom offset?

For those asking. Stock 16” wheels. 4” (I think) drop axle. The axle is about 1” narrower than stock.

here’s a photo. This is the most I can turn the driver side wheel. The driver side seems to be about 1/2-3/4” lower too which is another issue.

 

I’ve built three pairs of wheels all to make wider but making a narrow set would be the same concept. I had a how to thread out there years ago.

 

The next question would be king pin width.
It the drop axle wider than stock?

 

A narrower dropped axle could also be the answer. Is the one you have for a 40 and not a 42-8? Just a thought.

 

@Dan Hay

 

Damn it you beat me to it!!

 

Nice 40. What color are the rims please?

 

The color is called “custom made by me”. Haha. I actually had a red color but wanted it to look like a red/black so I painted the rims black and then with the red. I tried to duplicate on my engine block and didn’t turn out as well.

The drop axle is I believe 1” narrower than stock. Is there an even narrower option out there?

 

I did a 47” axle and corresponding Posies spring for a 35” perch width. Sucking in the wheels 1.5” (stock is 48.5) really makes a difference. Get it as low as you want with no fender rub.

Because the perch width is narrower it does require splitting the wishbones.

I know that sounds like a lot of work but you could sell what you have to get $ back and stance is everything!

also, what size tires? These were 500/525 16

one more thing: if you decide to go this route I have the narrower spring you need for that setup.

 

Wishbone is split. I think I remember measuring my axle when you and I were pm’ing about tire sizes and it was the same 47” axle. Will verify today.

measured center of wishbone hole to center of wishbone hole is 37”. Hard to measure the king pin to king pin with it all installed. My stock one is 39” (same measurement) so I’m assuming I’m narrowed?

 

Nothing to do with axles...but it is redundant to call a 40 coupe a 5 window. There were no other configurations, it's just a coupe.

 

Are they 4.5” wheels or 4” wheels?

 

Just remember a wheel with less offset will limit the turning radius at the point where the wheel starts to hit the frame on full lock. So with a new wheel with less offset check to see if the tire hits the frame.

 

I am not sure on the wheels. When I did them I didn’t know there was a difference. I did have to buy two as two of my original were no good. But I’m positive they were at least all the same though. I’ll have to measure but that may be tricky with tires on?

 

I seem to have plenty of room on the inside of tires before any frame hitting. Like 3-4” of clearance there.

 

Before you mess up ordering wheels, offset is the wrong term. BACKSPACE is the correct term. You need a wheel with more Backspace. Changing the backspace may affect the scrub radius, which effects turning effort but you probably won't notice it that much. Don't call a wheel manufacturer and tell them you want more offset. You will end up with a wheel that doesn't work.

https://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/...Uwc259cBfTPdD48a9N9-s_qW3Uvyt8loaApGLEALw_wcB

 

Disc brake kits can add an inch per side in some cases....

-Abone.

 

most drop'd axles are narrower than stock, which actually helps.
...also consider when you turn when driving, the body will tip to one side
away from the tallest part of your tire.

 

Nice stance. In the weeds.

 

This from Discount tire.

Understanding Wheel Offset and Backspacing


When it comes to upgrading the style and performance of your ride, there's nothing quite like a new set of wheels. But if you want to nail the aesthetic you're going for, make sure you know the ins and outs of wheel offset and wheel backspacing.

SHOP WHEELS
While shopping for a new set of aftermarket wheels, you'll probably encounter terms like rim width, rim size, bolt pattern and custom wheel offset (or backspacing). While width, size and bolt patterns are pretty straight forward, understanding rim offset or backspacing can make all the difference in getting the stance you want, not to mention making sure your new rims don't rub.

WHAT ARE WHEEL OFFSET AND WHEEL BACKSPACING?
If you've found yourself asking, "What is wheel offset" or "what is wheel backspacing," you're not alone. We hear this question a lot. So, in the battle of backspacing vs offset, who wins?

The truth is, they're essentially two different ways to measure the same thing: how your wheels fit your ride.

Wheel offset is the distance from the mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. On the other hand, backspacing is the distance from the mounting surface to the wheel's back lip.

They're important to know because offset and backspacing don't just determine which wheels fit your vehicle, they work together to directly impact your ride's look. Want an aggressive stance with the wheels and tires out past your fenders? A set of negative offset wheels, (AKA wheels with a smaller backspace) may be the way to go. To get your wheels tucked under for a clean, sporty look, you need a set of wheels with a larger backspace, or positive offset wheels.

No matter the style you rock, getting the right offset or backspacing will ensure that your new wheels are the perfect fit.

If you want to do a deep dive and better understand how to measure wheel offset and how it converts to backspacing, check out our wheel offset chart below!

WHEEL OFFSET AND BACKSPACING CONVERSION CHART

WHEEL OFFSET
The distance between the mounting surface and the wheel's centerline impacts your wheel's style and fit, and ensures that your wheels don't rub the fenders, brakes or other suspension components.

Offset is measured in millimeters and can be positive, zero or negative.

• Positive offset wheels: the mounting surface is further away from the centerline, sitting closer to the face of the wheel.
  
  
• Zero offset wheels: the mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
  
  
• Negative offset wheels: the mounting surface is closer to the back of the wheel
  

Check out the diagrams below for a visual illustration of each offset type. You can see how a positive offset will tuck the assembly further under the fender, while a zero or negative offset pushes the wheel out towards or even past the fender.




While many modern vehicles are equipped with positive offset wheels, some rear-wheel-drive and off-road vehicles have zero or negative offset wheels, sometimes called deep dish rims. If you're trying to find your offset, most wheels have it stamped on the backside of the rim. When replacing your wheels, be sure to go with the offset that's right for your vehicle and your style.

And if you need help, don't sweat it. Buying wheels (and tires) online is a snap. Just input your vehicle and search our industry-leading wheel inventory to find the perfect fit for your ride. Then you can check out our wheel visualizer and see how your new rims look on your exact vehicle, including make, model and OE paint color!

WHEEL BACKSPACING
An older system of measurement, backspacing is the distance from the mounting surface to the back of the wheel. Like offset, your vehicle's needs determine your wheel's backspacing.

While offset is measured in millimeters, backspace is measured in inches. The correct backspacing will allow enough room for the suspension, brakes and steering systems to operate without interference from the wheel.

Remember, there's a direct correlation between backspacing and offset. A positive offset creates more backspace, while a negative offset reduces backspace.

HOW TO MEASURE WHEEL BACKSPACING
To measure backspacing, lay the wheel facedown. (Pro Tip: use a soft surface to protect the wheel face.) Place a solid, flat item, such as a board, across the wheel so that there's a flat surface touching both sides of the wheel. Then, using a ruler or tape measure, measure the distance from the mounting surface to the base of the object.

Now you have your offset!

If you want to save yourself time (and money), our knowledgeable technicians can help you determine your vehicle's correct wheel offset and wheel backspacing. And if you're planning on going with bigger wheels, we can also help you custom design your very own wheel and tire package.

 

If that is indeed a 47" axle, I'm surprised you're having the issues you are. Like Alchemy said, maybe those are 4.5" wide wheels? Some early Ford wheels were 4", others were 4.5", and the super rare V8 60 wheels were 3 or 3.5" wide.

The 47" distance is King Pin to King Pin. Kinda hard to measure installed but measuring the perches like you did is good, yes, original axles were 39" Perch width.

 

This is true... if you've got disc brakes that's your problem right there. That's one reason why I stayed with drum, upgraded to 60's F100 Brakes which are self energizing and it stopped great.

 

I don't know what solution you will choose, but I would pay particular attention to the VISUAL space its going to create between the outside face of the tire and the fender lip. One of the most important (IMHO) things in making a car look good is that space. Many people use S10 frames and suspension under the 49-54 Chevy trucks. One of the biggest knocks about doing that is the big space it creates. I would think about which direction you need to go in solving your problem, but make sure that you still end up not creating a gap there. Others have found a way to do it and get a good looking small gap, so I would not jump too quickly on a solution till you know for sure.

 

Yep. Disc brakes. Maybe I’ll go back to drum. Maybe I’ll try and adjust the wheel offset. Maybe new spring. I dunno.

I did get to pull it out of the garage today. First time since probably the 60’s it moved on its own power. Felt good and it runs really good. so I know my clutch is good and at least reverse and first gear.

These photos are a little deceiving cause my driveway is on a hill but first sunshine photos.

bought a used seat today too to use until I get mine covered.