Ideal temperture thermostat for SBC?

My new truck has a SBC 383, cam, Edelbrock carb.
No emissions, no sensors.
I would like some input on the correct temp thermostat to run.
I have a flex fan and an aluminum radiator and does not seem to
have a problem with overheating. Keep in mind that I live in Phoenix, Arizona.
I guess I'm trying to decide to use a 180 or 195 degree and what brand?
I am replacing a Motorad Failsafe that fails trying to get the air (steam)
out of the system.
Thanks! Joe

 

well technically the hotter you run the better, but only if you dont overheat. I would just stick with a 180. a stant heavy duty is what i use. Supposedly they fail open.

 

Yep 180 would be my choice also. That is what any of my non emission stuff runs, even the Corvairs ! LOL

 

180 over here

 

165

 

I am with everyone else on the 180. I also use stant HD. I have used in the past
a stant thermostat that had what looks like a small br*** rivet on the flat part.
Supposedly the rivet melts at a certain temp allowing coolant to flow through the hole after failure.

I have also had good luck with Robert Shaw Hi Flow thermostats on borderline
hot engines. The extra flow somtimes makes a difference.

 

Another vote for 180 degree thermostat. I use Stant

 

I WOULD say 180...BUT, with a 383 stroker AND a kid behind the gas pedal, I would start 'er off at 165. The hopped up motor+heavy foot will keep 'er plenty hot!

 

180 and maybe drill a little hole in it if it has trouble with not opening when it should

 

I'd use a 180

 

I will take a look at the robertshaw stat.
I do think the problem getting the air out of the system is the fill neck in the radiator
is off to one side and probably 3" lower than the crown of the tank as it fits the shape of the deuce grill shell.

 

Thanks guys for your input!
I've decided to go with a 180 degree Stant Superstat #45358
and I will probably drill a 3/16" hole in the flange.
Joe

 

3/16" is pretty big....how about 3/32

 

You're right Squirrel, I just drilled a 3/16" hole in a junk thermo,
it does seem too large!
Joe

 

Running cool is only good for horses. Late model engines normally run a 195. Your fuel burns more efficiently and engine wear decreases as operating temps increase. just my $.02 worth

 

afaulk,
On the Stant websight they stated that the thermo would fully open
15 to 20 degrees above temp on thermostat (195 to 200) that,s
partly why I chose a 180.
Joe

 

Just last June I did a waterpump and thermostat on my 1967 chevy C30 dually dump with the 292 straight six and three speed granny ******. Never before had I used anything but a 180 stat in anything. I went with a 195 just for ****s and giggles to see what it would do.
Right away I noticed that the truck ran better. Throttle response got better and it seemed to run smoother.
Then I started to run premium fuel only. Not only does the truck run better than ever, I've noticed the mpg's are better.
Even with the brutal summer we went through I did not overheat but the truck is definatly running hotter.
The old valve cover gasket seems to leak a little more. I now notice an occasional whiff of oil burning. It did'nt do that before. I also have a faint coolant smell coming from somewhere. No visual leaks. Am I taxing my radiator and/or heater core? I don't know. For now the 195 stays but I'm really on the fence with this one.

 

I used to run 190* stats but the last time I tried to find one there was none. I guess they quit making them. I just swapped a 195* for the 180* I was running and picked up about 3 mpg. But like 1ton said Im getting whiffs of coolant once in a while. Im going back to a 180*

 

I've been running 180s since the 60s. Too old to change now. 195 in my late model truck so it will sail through emissions but my hotrods don't need to be sniff tested.

 

ive run all of them in my sbc. 160,180 and 195. i build them and throw in a 195. when broke in i swap them out to 160.never have had a problem with any thing. well exept in the winter when i want some hot heat in them.lol.what in was taught is that all they do is open at a prefered degree and then the outside temp and your coolin system will dictate what temp it truly runs.ive heard and read all the arguments on different stats but ill stick to what a few old racers told me. seems to work for me...

 

The opening Question clearly states, no sensors or emissions. 180, I use Robert Shaw, or TCI.

If it had sensors or emissions then 195

 

195 on both chevy and fords most of the time. I'v tried 160 and 180 but when winter comes i need the 195. No emissions on 350 in the 35 and it shows about 195 on temp gauge after a couple of miles of summer time driving with the 180 or 195, so i leave the 195 in year round. I'v had sludge problems with some engines in the past when i use a 160.

 

I listen to what the old racers tell me for race cars...but not so much for street cars.

 

Ill also vote for the 160. I have them in all of my 10 cars and have never blown an engine in my life and actually never had to rebuild any of them. I read that you gain .10 seconds in the 1/4 going from a 185 to a 160. Maybe thats why my $999 Pontiac 400 that was built in 1991 does the 1/4 in 12.5s in a 3810 lb car and I rev it to 6200 all the time. All stock heads, and short block. When I take the valve covers off, it still looks like I built it yesterday, not 21 years ago. At 160 degrees, I have plenty of toasty heat coming out of the heater. Even at temps in the 30s. If any of my cars got up to 180+ I'd be worried!!! LOL!

 

Sure...

180 & done to the OP.

 

Trying a 180, so far so good!

 

On a street driven car 180 or 190. 160 is to cool and the oil may not get hot enough and could create a sludge build up over time

.

 

With the gas that is available today, 195* . New vehicles are designed to burn the lousy gas that is now on the market because of our stupid politicians who take lobby money and don't know jack ****, about ****, and they run best hot. The short answer is 195*.

 

This will never happen with todays oil. I had 240,000 miles on an engine I sold and the guy didn't want the valve covers. When we took them off the heads looked like they just came from the machine shop. I also live in the NW where it can get real cold in the winter and in the 90s in the summer. I drove the car as a daily driver for 20+ years. Best times at the track are always when my water temp is at 160. It could be different with other cars depending on carb, cam, exhaust etc. Totdays cars run hot so they can burn all the fuel for emissions. It doesn't nessesarily mean that its optimum for power. Just cleaner burning. And as far as heat in the winter. 160 degrees will toast you out of a car real fast. Think how hot 120 out of your faucet is and then imagine it 40 degree's hotter. In the winter I'd crank the heater full and roll down the window. It kept the windows from fogging and kept me from baking.

 

It will happen with todays oil as I have witnessed it just a few of years ago. If the car always runs cool and never or very rarely ever gets to 180 or a little higher the moisture in the oil creates sludge and will build up over time.