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Technical Identify brakes

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Johan Hansson, Mar 12, 2026 at 12:49 PM.

  1. Johan Hansson
    Joined: Dec 17, 2017
    Posts: 13

    Johan Hansson

    Hi. I have a problem with the brakes and would like your help identifying what kind of brakes are on my hotrod. The problem is that the wheel bearing has worn out and I can't get the drum off, so I'll probably have to put the angle grinder in the drum, but then I want to know which new drum I should buy. 20260312_184237.jpg 20260312_184245.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 12, 2026 at 1:18 PM
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,968

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    1940 Ford. Be aware that the drum is swedged to the hub by the studs. Not easy to pull off like modern cars. If you cut the hub or drum, you might as well start looking for an original replacement. There are repros out there, but some are very poor quality.

    Does the drum still spin? Maybe the shoes need to be adjusted inward to let the drum slide off.
     
  3. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 38,855

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Looks like 40 Ford. Did the wheel bearing wear out? or do you mean it is seized to the spindle?
     
  4. 3blapcam
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 643

    3blapcam
    Member

    Have you tried to adjust the shoes in all the way to possibly clear any lip that might've been created from brake drum wear? I'd give that a go before getting out the heavy artillery!

    Good luck!

    3blap.
     
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  5. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 38,855

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    yeah, do nor destroy the drum. they are not easy to get. if you are careful some heat from an oxy acetylene torch in the seized race may expand it enough to remove it
     
  6. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 38,855

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    I enlarged the pics, always select "full image" when posting pics
     
  7. Johan Hansson
    Joined: Dec 17, 2017
    Posts: 13

    Johan Hansson

    I removed the drum on the other side (left) and then I unscrewed the castle nut and then released the drum directly, so no stud bolt. The drum on the right side spins but the wheel bearing is broken.
     
  8. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 38,855

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    explain the "broken wheel bearing" are you saying it is seized to the spindle?
     
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  9. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,896

    Doublepumper
    Member
    from OR-WA, USA

    If the outer bearing race is seized onto the spindle, a chisel will fracture the race so the hub will come off. You may have to sharpen the chisel a few times to do it though. The drum should come off the hub if the brake shoes aren't hanging up on a wear ridge, and the hub centering register isn't so corroded that it's holding the drum from sliding off. Use a wire brush to clean the center register, then give it a squirt of penetrant and it will come off. Good luck!
     
    Deutscher likes this.
  10. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 408

    dmar836
    Member

    Slow way down before making bold moves. Ask me how I know.
    D
     
    leon bee, Just Gary, Andy and 2 others like this.
  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,968

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The drum will not just slip off the hub unless it’s already been F’d with. The studs are swedged at the factory to prevent the drum coming off. The OP needs to take a close look to see what he’s got.
     
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  12. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,896

    Doublepumper
    Member
    from OR-WA, USA

    I don't see a swage...but I am on a ****py computer.
     
  13. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,968

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have you ever held some of those in your hand? The swedge is small.

    Edit: I just zoomed the pic up and I can still see the factory swedged studs. The drum will not come off the hub without removing the swedges first. Especially still on the spindle.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2026 at 6:27 AM
    leon bee, RICH B and 3blapcam like this.
  14. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 408

    dmar836
    Member

    The swedged parts are the lug bolts holding the drum to the hub - like a model A. Over time paint and dust can cover them up pretty easily. That is if it's what we are seeing. I just did four so I know what to look for but I can't see these.
    Johan, what have you tried so far?
    D
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2026 at 8:01 AM
    leon bee likes this.
  15. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,115

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have you tried a decent sized slide hammer? The kind that goes on the wheel studs.

    If it doesn't come out and it's the outer bearing; torch out the rollers; pull the hub and deal with the race. In my experience the inner bearing has always came off or apart when using a slide hammer.

    Be sure to have the other tire on the ground so you don't shock it off the stands.

    If you really feel the need to get the drum off; use a hole saw over the studs to cut the swedge, knock the studs in, you may have to heat the area around the pilot to break the rust bond. May still be a chore with the drum on the spindle.

    You really don't want to destroy any more early Ford parts than necessary.
     

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