a guy has this hemi for sale, say's it is a 354 Chrysler, he sent me these photo's. by the picts can you tell me what it is out of. I have 354 but is industrial and a bit diferent than this one, (heads, front covers) is it just as easy to run as my ind. hemi, thanks guy's for your input.
Has the truck 4 bolt exhaust manifolds, thermostat in the intake with no crossover. Tell him you need a pic of the serial number on the block that should tell you everything.
100% sure it is a Chrysler engine out of a big Dodge truck. The 2-piece timing cover with high-mounted water pump is a dead giveaway. The number code stamped into the top of the block will tell you the year and displacement. The truck valve covers have no embossed lettering, but did originally have a 'dodge power giant' decal. The block uses a different timing cover bolt pattern, but there is an aftermarket aluminum cover available for the truck/marine block too. The 354 truck engine I have has a gear driven cam (for durability). The oil pan in the picture may have been changed, as many truck engines had a full-length sump pan.
Visual as pictured all bolt on stuff is truck 100% Need numbers to tell block because all that stuff bolts on any size chrysler hemi and who knows who may have swapped a short block. The heads don't have water outlets and they do have big stem sodium filled valves that's an obstical to overcome. The smooth V covers and 4bolt E manifolds bring a premium.
Ind & truck engines are simular, uses 51-54 car style timing cover. The truck cover may have a little less clutter than the ind cover. either cam would need to be replaced or reground, especially an ind one.
SN is under the intake & tends to be difficult to see with the intake on. Should be a use code on a flat in front of the valley cover. Some truck engines have the use code stamped on the front of the block below the driver's side head.
why do the exhaust 4 bolt manifolds and smooth valve covers bring good money, what do they go for normally, I am going to pick this engine up tomorrow. will be a 18 hours trip
The smooth covers are favored for chroming. The 4 bolt ex mans are the best flowing OEM ones. Prices vary around the sites.
bought the hemi, had to take 2 ferry's to pick up. left at 3:30 in morning and got back at 11:00 that night, also picked up this intake and carbs for a 440 mopar, nice for a rod.
here are some casting numbers heads 1733463, block 1619829, front of block I cannot find anywhere.(VT549-14100, looked inside with camera and found 1735906X on pistons, got it running today and no oil to rockers, 30psi cold then went down from there after hot. supost to have been rebuilt almost 20 years ago and has been sitting for that long, when I was priming the oil with the covers off and rotating the engine little at a time, I could not get oil to rockers but oil was coming out of the rear drain hole p***enger side of head. I stuck a wire in hole and I can go into oil pan with wire, can someone explain, I am baffled
Heads are 57-59 Dodge truck. Numbers say it's 354 block that was used in both car and truck. Could also be a industrial engine but I'll let the experts weigh in on that,I just googled the part numbers.
This post also in your other thread. On the first prime with a drill, it takes a long time to get the oil up there. With the drill running - slowly rotate the crank and you will hear and feel in the drill and see on the pressure guage when the cam hole aligns into rockers oiling position. Stop the rotation of crank. In this position the rocker shafts will begin to fill. You'll hear and feel in the drill when that one side is full. At that time you should see oil start to drip up top. Slow turn the crank and repeat for next side. Now you know shafts are full and primed. If you start it and still dont have oil flow thats like a rebuilt engine - then you'll know that you have to take it apart and clean and check it. The inside of the shafts collect all sorts of ****,it needs cleaned out- maybe the rebuilder did it maybe not? 20 year old ***embly lube isn't going to be conducive to oil flow either.
Just in case anyone refers back to this thread regarding truck, industrial, or marine 331/354 engines... i would like to point out that this truck block is different than the p***enger car block. It started out life as the same raw casting (same casting number), but was machined into a different part number than the p***enger car block part number. Main difference is the timing cover bolt pattern to accommodate the 2-piece timing cover which happens to be the same bolt pattern as the 51-54 car engines. Marine engine blocks are similar, but have additional drilled & tapped holes for cooling water connections.
I noticed also the oil pan gasket I had for my other 354 did not fit perfectly in the front last corner bolts on this engine
All and any 354 should be the 55 and up pan. Early 331 gasket on a 354? one of the 354s isn't a 354 ? Or mother mopar screwing around again ?
The bolts at the front corners are slightly different between the early (51-54 331) and the late (55-58 331-354-392). Not all 354 are the same...The 354 truck blocks were drilled for the early pan rail as well as the early p*** car front cover. Also recall that the 354 truck blocks are often only bored to 3-13/16" (331 size). .
I guess so, how does it get to be a 354 if it really a 331? I'll never get this ****, once I think I got a handle on it, somebody greases it up and it flys right out of my hand
Some truck blocks with 354 casting numbers have been found bored to only 331, they have use codes for the 331. The ***umption is they were warranty replacements for 331s after production of 331s ended. Should have nice thick cyl walls for a blower.....
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