what would be the better IFS to mate to a 1941 ford ton frame, coe. trying to use this frame for titling purposes. I would like to end up with 5 lug chev or ford bolt pattern. The steering box to be verticle. Need info from someone who has had hands on experience doing this. thanks wallymelton@comcast.net
If you put COE frame swap in your title might help you get more input. Also there is a COE group area to check out on the HAMB. Here's one being done now: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=762207&highlight=47+ford+coe Also see my redux thread linked in my sig for info on my frame.
Mustang II If you want to go 5 lug you are going to have to go with a half ton or car suspension and rear end. Is your drag link or cross steer that is gong to make a difference in what you choose and I do not know if the trucks were drag link or cross steer. My assumption would be drag link.
Gm vans have a steering box that the input shaft is vertical. The problem is the crossmember will be too wide. You can narrow the crossmember to get the right track width but you'll have to narrow the frame also. I'm putting C3500 suspension in a 41 regular cab 3 ton fire truck. The van steering will probably work real nice in a COE.
On the ford COE frame you can use a GM truck front crossmember. HOWEVER - The section of the GM setup that "stands up" to accept the upper control arms are narrower than the ford frame so you will have to knotch the COE frame about 1" on each side. Setting the COE frame on top of the GM crossmember will more than likely also result in the truck setting higher than you will want unless you change the cab mounts. The front section of the GM frame is needed to keep the steering geometry correct and that may negate the VIN number on the COE frame. A second option I like is the 87-88 Dakota front suspention. The tract width is good for the COE, the brake rotors are large, it is a front mounted rack and pinion setup so you can rotate the rack to point upwards. The location of the steering column shaft off the rack is great for the COE cab. It has a 5 lug, 4 1/2" bolt circle. The dakota crossmember is wider than the COE frame so instead of knotching the COE frame, you will have to box outwards a bit and that will make it easier to adapt. I am not sure about ride height. If you then use a Ford 9" out of a full size LTD, etc, it is 1/2" wider per side than the dakota front end. The Mustang II is too narrrow and light duty for the COE. Hope this helps.