Projects I'm 18 and building my first flathead 59AB+merc crank for my chopped 34 4 door sedan

Regarding your stuck pistons, my dad showed me the following.
This was a l6 Dodge 218, we were able to get to enough bolts to drop the crank a bit

After a few weeks of acetone/ATF mix soaking , he hole sawed some 1/2 slugs and wrapped them in electrical tape. To kinda fit better and protect the bores

placed the slug on the piston and used the air chisel to rattle it. In short order all the frozen rings to the cylinders came loose and the pistons started to move. We let it soak again til the next weekend and eventually got them all moving enough to start rotating the crank to get things apart without damage

might be a bit tougher on a V8 tho, never tried it.

 

Ok, thank for the info

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Any up dates ?

 

I'm going to work on removing what's left of the exhaust manifolds today.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Jesse, While you have it upside down completely clean off all of the old oil pan gasket and look for any cracks on the oil pan mounting surface. Cracks there are common and will be a deal killer before you go too much further.

 

I just checked and there is no visible cracks

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

After a bit of heat and wrenching the manifold bolts came out pretty easy, there's 2 broken bolts on the manifold side that was broken that I will have to remove that were broken when I got it I'm now trying to figure out what to do next.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Great no cracks along the oil pan rail. Are the exhaust manifold bolts broken off below the surface of the side of the block or even with it? Use your Dad's experience with them and possibly weld on a nut to get them out. That along with the localized heat will most times get them removed.

 

According to my dad they stick out just enough to weld a bolt on.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I removed the flywheel and the idle gear cover next I'm going to try to remove the ider gear any tips on how to do so would be much appreciated

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Its been a while since I removed one but IIRC I took a flat bar and drilled 3 holes in it. The 2 outer holes bolted to the 2 holes directly across from the cover bolts (about 2 and 8 o'clock in your photo). Thread a bolt into the gear through the center hole. You'll need to space the flat stock off the block which will allow the gear to pull out as you tighten the center bolt. The center bolt has to be flush with the flat bar to start. As you tighten the bolt it will pull out the gear. But like I said its been a while and I no longer have any flatheads laying around to verify this procedure.

 

See post number 9
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-oil-pump-idler-gear.467194/

 

Ok thank you very much I'll try that out

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Awesome score on the flatty and the car!

 

Thank you!

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My dad is going to guide me through it because I've never done it before.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Great! Aint Dads the greatest? Be sure to thank him for me.

 

Awesome father and son team keeping hot rodding alive.
Keep the pics rollin!!!

 

When ever I need to remove the oil pump idler gear I simply use a slide hammer that has a 3/8 inch coarse thread stud on the end. The end of the idler shaft has the threaded hole the shaft will pull out easily using the slide hammer idea if you have one handy.
Ronnieroadster

 

Will do!

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Ok I will try that

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Looks like a great start! I love seeing 18yr olds with this passion! It seems that many only want to play Xbox.

 

Damn nice job kid!!! When I was your age I used to watch my dad build flatheads and run em too, very nice lookin engine!!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Keep at it!

 

put a little duct tape on the block, keep it as close to the broken stud as possible so you can't weld the stud to the black...
i was chopping a '29 tudor as entertainment at our rod run...
guy had a break down, so i welded to the end of a alt bolt broken off in a bbc aluminum head... i did not weld a bolt on as i had a better shot just welding the stud, i built up about 3/8"... was going to use vise grips but didn't need them...
worked great and the stud gets so hot welding it that when cool it came out with plyers...
go get 'em...

 

Just found this thread. Super cool start. I was trying to be one of the fast and furious kids at your age so you're already way cooler than I was at your age. Your excitement and eagerness to learn is obvious and will help keep you going.

It would be insane but did anyone else think that the 18 year old with the engine in California and the 15 year old who works in a machine shop in New York would be a perfectly ridiculous matchup for this build. Lol. Just me?

Carry on Jesse. Watching for your future triumphs in this journey. Good luck.

-Adam

Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Just kinda did a quick flip threw of the thread until I have time to read it but my words of advice for someone getting into rusty old fords is this.

buy a giant can of kroil. Use it sparingly. Be amazed that very very very stuck things come right apart.

looking forward to seeing your progress

 

it’s been happening since his first post.....in a positive way....no ridicule. grandma used to say “you’ll catch more flies with honey than vinegar”