Projects I'm all in...My '38 Chevy PU Build Thread

good on ya

 

Here’s what I’ve been up too the last few months to get to this point:
Got the clutch setup, which turned out to be the toughest of the pedals to setup. I bought a z-bar package for a ‘56 Chevy because it seemed to have the closest dimensions to what I needed and included all the necessary pushrods, balls, clips, seals, etc….
Ended up using almost none of what was included. Had to cut the z bar in the middle to narrow it to fit my frame and reposition the tabs correctly for my application. The upper pushrod from pedal to z bar was too long, so I cut it down and welded back together, only to later find out it was now too short, by about an inch. So I made a whole new one with some 3/8” steel rod and yokes I had around. (One of my twin daughters came out to help me thread the rod). Once that was accomplished, the head of the pin holding the lower yoke to the z bar, hit the frame. So….out came the die grinder and a notch was made.
The lower pushrod for the clutch was the style that goes through the fork and is pinned in. That is not the style clutch fork I have. So…I cut the pin tab off and rounded the end to fit in the pocket on the pushrod.
Finally, got it pretty close on the adjustment and will finalize it when the brake pedal is done so I can put them at even heights.
Sorry I don’t have many pics of this process, I did this not long after my dad passed and lost my zeal for wanting to post.

 

Once the clutch was sorted out for the most part, I moved on to the throttle. Mostly because the brake set up I’m using requires a lot of thought, and that scares me, haha.
Throttle was pretty simple. Used some 5/16” rod ends and tube and a simple Mr. Gasket bell crank. The fabrication itself was pretty straight forward, but it did take some time to figure out the physics so that it would not bind or catch on anything in its arc of travel.
Now I need to find some type of grommet that will fit the huge hole I needed. I’m think I may cut some normal grommets and use some of the foam that comes with new toolboxes to accomplish that. However, that is a future me problem to be solved after paint.

 

It was at this point, I realized I could make it move under its own power. And when it did, I decided to put off working on the brakes again and make the steering work.
Pulled the box out of the truck, which is a ton of fun if you’ve never done it. The column does not disconnect from the box, so all 4’ had to be leveraged and snaked around all the other components that I have already installed. And truth be told, getting it out wasn’t the hardest part, putting it back was.
Anywho…yanked it out and removed the column bearing from the mast jacket. Then took the mast jacket off and decided where I wanted to cut it. Why am I cutting it? Because I really wanted a removable steering wheel so I needed to weld on the adapter. Figured out where the bearing needed to be relocated to further down the mast jacket, figured out where the pin mechanism needed to be welded on. And got it all put together. I am sorry though, I have almost no pics of this. I’ll get some later and post them.
Finally I blasted some paint on the steering box and mast jacket. The jacket will get painted a different color later, so I didn’t mind when it got mauled going back into the truck.

 

Now, the truck can drive and steer, but she can’t stop. Guess I’m going to have to address this sooner or later.
It was my decision to forego the standard adjustable proportioning valve. Again, you ask, why? Because I’m a glutton for punishment and also a sucker for knobs, switches, buttons, and gauges. Growing up in Macks and Peterbilts will do that to you. So, when I saw that you could use a balance bar for your brakes and have a cool knob on your dash to adjust them with, well, I had to have it.
There are a lot of issues to go along with this though and here they are in a nice neat list for you:
1. A balance bar usually requires two brake master cylinders. You may have noticed by now that I don’t have two brakes master cylinders. I only have one and it’s from an International that used it as a brake MC and the clutch MC. So project one was to convert that over to a brake/brake MC.


2. Balance bars usually have a fancy pedal assembly for race cars that works with them. You may have noticed by now that I don’t have a fancy pedal assembly. I have an Ansen type hanging pedal setup sold by Vern Tardel. Here’s where it gets dicey and we’ll need a sub-list:
A. The clutch pedal does not provide enough clearance to allow the balance bar to do anything correctly. When the clutch is depressed, it hits the bar and actuates the brakes. And when trying to adjust the balance bar, it hits the upper realms of the clutch pedal. So I came up with one simple solution. Turn the pedals around. It meant having to redo a couple things on the clutch, but it gave me a ton of clearance and I kind of like the look a little better.


It’s at this point you’re saying to yourself…this Eric guy is a moron. And you’d be correct. But I’m lovable and I made you this convenient list to prove your point for you. I could have easily just had a hydraulic clutch and ran both sets of brakes off the original setup and been done. But morons don’t think like that and make things more complicated than necessary, so back to our list.
B. After looking at the photos, you notice there is nothing to actually actuate the balance bar and push the pushrods into the master cylinder to make the brakes work. And, again, you would be correct. So I made three different sets of different length pushrods from 5/16”-24 bolts. I think the 3 1/2” is going to to be the ticket, so one problem solved. However, there is still nothing actually attached to the pedal that will push the balance bar in. Now I must embrace my inner hack and start fabricating something…anything.
I acquired myself some 1/4” flat bar. Same thickness as the rest of the pedal setup. I cut and drilled a piece that will weld to the upper tube of brake pedal, so it will swing with pedal when it is pushed.
Then, I notched a piece to fit around the bearing race for the balance bar, and that will weld to the other piece I welded to the upper tube. Pictures may help here:


It’s a tough spot to get a good pic at night, sorry.
This was where I left off. I need to split all the tacks and move a couple things around in order to get some better geometry, but it’s almost there. Unfortunately, I will have no time to work on it at all this week, so I’ll get back on it next week and let all two of you know how it turns out.
And one last thing you may be wondering about is pedal ratio. I have made no mention of it up to this point. It’s because it was already kind of predetermined by the Tardel pedal setup and was a bit shy of the ideal goals. When making this new push point, it seems to be sitting higher than where the original brake yoke would connect, so I believe, if anything, it should be better.
That was a lot, and probably not understandable, so I’ll leave you to digest that.

 

All the hard work that goes unnoticed by the casual observer and also the fun of building old cars, like really building them, not just bolting things on.
I have to say I'm envious of your driveway, a great test pad !

 

If I have this straight, you were doing burnouts without any brakes?

 

There is something about it, where you know that every nut, bolt, screw, weld, measurement, clearance was done by your own hands and brain. Even though I buy a good amount of my stuff, I usually end up cutting it up to make it what I want. The feeling of accomplishment, pride, and confidence when it finally all works together is unrivaled. Not much in the world that makes me feel better.
And thanks, that driveway is a blessing. It’s nice to be able to rollout with no brakes, do a small burnout, and not be concerned I’m going to hit something. Looking forward to giving it the full send treatment though when I do have brakes!

 

You are correct.