I'm askin' Santa for a good December Banger Meet

Yup...Happy New Year, banger buddies!

 

I had a 11.5 lbs. al. flywheel on my 2 port engine. I had 5.30's in the rear end and we started hill climbs in 2 nd gear. Got it down to 8.77. When you shift into high at 4000 RPM's the car just slams forward and the steering gets pretty light. For the drags we ran 4.11's with 29.5" rear tires ran an 84 MPH and next year, if the car is running, I'm going to go with 3.90's or 3.78's to see if it starts with less wheel spin. This will be with a "repop" Al Winfield head with 2 "C" Winfield's and a J Brierley SU1A cam. With the 38 Lincoln side shift and the light flywheel it shifts very fast. You might consider a 10" clutch. My car weighs 1500 lbs. If I were to build a dragster I would consider just enough to carry the clutch. The 28 "A" multi disk was popular with everything turned off some times they would machine a steel ring and press it on to what was left of the flywheel so it wouldn't turn into a hand grenade.
A word of caution, If you use the V8 clutch you will have to reverse the Bendix drive. It seems that the imported Bendix gears are much harder or at least more brittle and break very easily so you must not run too much static advance or you will break the gear on the first or second kick back. There are other starter combinations that will work but I lost the thread about them.

 

i am thinking i will have way to tall of a gear
i may need to go to the 3.78 with a 30" tall tire just to keep the rpms down
i cant imagin this thing weighing more than 1100 lbs
i have a few weight saving trucks that an old banger guy has p***ed on to me
so you think the 12.5 lb flywheel will be fine then???
also i am going to adapt a mini starter... and i may end up doing an adapter like sam i am and run a sbc or sbf ****tershield just for the saftey aspect. not alot of cluches coming apart at 4200rpm but if the crank flange breaks then i dont want to eat any parts in my crotch
tk

 

I have and have run 2 Al. flywheels and have bushed the mounting hole with steel bushings. The first one I bought used at a swap meet and the holes were elongated so fitted steel bushings. The second one is a REM that weights 16 lbs. and the material is very soft and the the mounting holes were oversize so I bushed them. I use a 12 point ARP flywheel mounting bolt and I Loc***e them in. Another word of caution, check the flywheel and see if you will have clearance for the socket if you use the 12 pt. ARP bolts as they take a 3/4" socket and you may need a little more clearance.

 

I have not seen a head with a combustion chamber shape like that. The "heart" is much pointier then I have seen. The casting on the outside looks like the later replacment heads. It is not a B head as there is not the 3 bolt water pump or the 2 steam vents on either side of the center head bolt by the Dist. hole.

Is there a diamond cast into the head under the water pump boss?

If so, then it is a post production replacment head.

This could be a head from an engine that was made for a non Ford imptement.

.

 

Thanks for taking the time. I'm away from home visiting the grandkids but will look for a diamond as soon as I get back home. The heart shape caught my eye too.

 

remember to post the "basic banger info" threads at the beginning of next month, i think making that a monthly thing might be good for new guys. and if anyone has any threads they think are of importance send them to the man posting the links. crazydaddyo do you feel like taking this on every month? just my 2 cents