I'm Done With Hydraulic Throwout Bearings

Funnily enough I have in fact owned a manufacturing business, and have spent many decades as a design engineer developing new engineering products.

Now If I was going to sell a product for fifty dollars, or two hundred dollars, I would rather pay the extra twenty cents for a proper oil seal than save twenty cents and have a huge number of failures and customer complaints.
It all has to do with ethics and pride in what you do. But I guess that sort of thing is old fashioned these days.

If the Auto manufacturers can design a clutch slave cylinder that does not quickly fail and piss fluid everywhere, so should a specialty manufacturer.
This is not leading edge technology, or even expensive technology.
The companies that make and supply the seals have application engineers to help you with your new design, and are always very happy to do so. That is what they do.
There is really no excuse for screwing up something like this, which is why I am being so harsh on these people.

 

I have the Mcleud bearing in a car for maybe 12 years now.The only problem I ever had was after the installation a hole wore in the line because of our screwup and nothing else ever.FWIW,Tom

 

I'll just throw this out there.... do the manufacturers recommend a certain type of fluid to be used with these

 

I should have bought the Mcleod, but 6 or 7 years ago when I was starting this project, they were $650.00. Hindsight is 20/20.

 

Are you using the proper Pressure plate that is matched with the T O Brg?? That is the fingers of the P P riding in CENTER of T O Brg.

 

Yes, everything is correct, As a matter of fact, I have tried both three finger pressure plates, and diaphragm pressure plates with the same dismal results. They do work great for a while, and then BLAM!!!! The O-rings blow and you are walking.

 

according from reading your first post,you are using a ****** that is a 1"-10 spline...Pressure plate must match the 1"..A chev P P is 1 1/8"-10 spline for example..1/8 off for your application ,with the ****** out place youre T O brg next to the fingers and see if they are centered

 

I'm using the 26 spline Super T-10. Did you see the above post where I converted the car to an external slave? The car actually runs great now.

 

Great.....Glad you got it worked out

 

Just learn to start in second ( should start motor) then kick in nutral before stopping, Had to do this with my MGB in the 70's ran all day and got home with out a problem????????????????????????????????????? Also learned to shift without a clutch when learning to drive.

 

I understand that you have fixed your problem. Good. I have to say though that I have put almost 100,000 miles on my Quartermaster hydraulic t/o without problem. Hell, I don't remember even having to bleed it. I did have the trans down in 2006 for a couple of days, and I did order a seal kit and install at that time - that's it. My roadster pickup is getting one as we speak.

 

MR. FORD had a Howe in his coupe, worked for a while and then failed. He ponyed up the $$$ and bought a McLeod, the difference in quality was remarkable, but of course so was the price. Been trouble free since...

 

I've run a Mcleod unit for years. The only problem I've ever had was the square seal (not o ring) blowing out. I found out that the oil I was using was the wrong type and it affected the seal. Check and be sure you're using the recommended oil by the mfg.

 

What

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What fluid are you using ? I'm at the point to bleed mine but not sure about correct fluid. Ram says non synthetic dot3 only or it will ruin o rings. I have the standard autozone / car quest type dot 3 fluid. I don't see anywhere on bottles the word synthetic. But if I google dot 3 non synthetic brake fluid. It says all dot 3 brake fluids are synthetic. . So to use mine or not ? Thanks