Finished up the front cross member, after doing a mock up to ensure everything was going to fit correctly. I've trimmed the mech brake cross over down to fit the hydraulic brakes and got my head around the way it will function. It's not complicated, but it is new to me.
Yet another good idea is those idle engine stands as a rotisary … the weight of the frame will not be a problem... this post has been great, lots of neat stuff going on... i am going to weld up a new set of '32 rails, A crossmember, drop out tranny mount, '37ish x member and a square / rectangular tube rear crossmember... going to pie cut the '32 rails just beyond the rear crossmember, tip them down, and weld on a pair of A front horns upside down with a 2" diameter stainless spreader bar between them... a rotisary like yours will be the cat's azz...
Back on the ground to check a few things. I plan to drop the motor and trans in, and start work on shortening the radius rods. I'll also check how the rear wheels line up with the wheel wells. I'll need to make up a spring spreader to get the rear spring installed. The 36 radius rod perches need the angles tweaked to get them parallel to the spring ends as well. I'll also finish shortening the torque tube and drive shaft.
Lined up another 40 ford rear spring... sold the last one and forgot I needed it to help centre the rear wheels to the wheel well... 36 radius rods with the 32 spring doesn't work too well!
hello drylakes , I'm interested in this m/cyl adaption of yours, how the hell are you going to get to the dam thing when it fails ? , please understand I'm not being criticle of your idea I don't actually like were my m/cyl is mounted behind the cross member hanging down a bit ,I was thinking of raising my m/cyl and using a cantilever as I did on a model a some years ago I look forward to your thoughts by the way nice car you are building
The floor has a removable panel to access it from above. Not really anything wrong with running the master cylinder below and a lot of people do. I just like this alternative, didn't mean to offend any one. Here is an example of this method.
I assume @tub1 is thinking worst case scenario when/if the master cylinder has to be removed. Most under floor m/c’s are a bit of a pain to work on in general. And if it has to be done it’s usually a workshop type of a job anyway. Meaning you would have more tools, equipment and time available for such a job. I’ll admit I was sceptical at first but the more I look at the above photo I’m thinking I like the idea. It would definitely be more protected up in the chassis rather than under it.
Yep I like the idea however remember things don't fail in the workshop they fail on side of road in middle if Christ knows were
Ha ha - I don't know of many people that would repair a failed MC on the side of the road. I love the roadster and how it's coming along. Truly inspirational.
clever mc placement... I don't like a mc on the firewall... so I let the pedals pull... mount a bel-crank behind the seat, with adjustable rod [red] and clevices… then added 4 holes for mechanical advantage in the bel... mount the mc behind that... hole in the trunk floor not the carpet to add fluid... I also paint anything you can't see from the outside white, if I have trouble it reflects light so I can use both hands and not need to point the light right at the screw / nut to see it.... .
Played around with gauges recently and got the rumble lid installed. Still have a few things to sort out with the steering, such as shortening the adjustable drag link, getting the taper and key way machined to fit the steering wheel, outer steering column tube replacment, lots of little things.
Played around with the rear fenders, mainly working out the lines I'd like for them. Also having a clean out of parts as I decide what I'm going to use and what I can turn into funds for the roadster.
The Jalopy Journal
