A Buddy of Mine, Ralph, has a 1936 Chevy Master Deluxe Coupe. He says he gets about 19 uses of the Brake pedal until the Engine Lugs Down Trying to Move the Car. Let it sit for a while and it's good to go again. To me I figure that brake Fluid is getting behind the Master Cylinder Piston. I'm Guessing out of tolerance piston or bore in the Master Cylinder. We have changed that and the Rubber Flex Hose on the Front Brakes. Still having the same Problem? What should Piston to Bore specks Be? Anybody got a new One? Reliable Master Cylinder Rebuild services close to Buffalo, N.Y.
Check that there nothing like carpet or other stuff restricting full pedal return. Check that there is free play between the push rod and cylinder. Check for binding brake pedal pivot limiting free return of the pedal. Check that the bore of the master cylinder is free of corrosion that that would interfere with full return of the piston. Check that the pedal return spring is in place and doing it's job.
Put it up on jackstands, pump the crap out of the brake pedal for a minute and then release and see which wheel is bound up. The rubber lines would be my guess too. Don't forget there's one on the back.
Thanks guys for your support I have another question about my stock 36 chevy master cylinder. There are two holes inside the smaller of the two the book calls the compensation port. Does any know what this does? Is it there to allow the brake fluid back to the cylinder after the brake pedal is released?
We seem to think that the Problem exists in the Master Cylinder. It appears to me that the Piston Movement is not Long Enough! It doesn't seem to be clearing what is called the compensation port. That return spring is Tapered. I wonder perhaps if we install it in the other direction if this doesn't allow the Spring to recess deeper into the cap? Hey Pistonjockey give that a try.
One end of the spring fits over the residual valve, usually the big end. The smaller end fits inside the cup and holds it against the piston. If the rubber washer, residual valve, spring, cup, and piston are all there in that order, and are the correct parts; there should be enough spring to push the cup and piston back against the retainer washer and uncover the compensating port just before it stops.
Ok, so Pistonjockey has been Driving his coupe for a couple of Days now with no problems! Evidently problem was in the assembly of the Push Rod, End Cap, and it's Locking Spring Clip. Flipping the End Cap over allows the Push Rod NOT to extend as deeply into the master cylinder. The Difference is only about .050 but is enough to allow the piston to uncover the compensating port. Locking Spring Clip is assembled as we have before. Thank you to all that have posted.
Just wanted to reply to all of you who gave suggestions on fixing the braking problem on my 36 Chevy coupe. Special Thanks to Rich B, Squirrel, Arkansas, In_the_Pink, 302GMC and1940Willys a big thank you to all of you.
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