Won’t work on a Deuce lock if the passenger interior door handle is in the “lock” position. Deuce doors only have tumblrs on the passenger door. To lock the car, lock the drivers door by throwing the interior door handle in the lock position....scoot across the seat exit the passenger side close and lock the door with the key. You may throw the lock on the drivers door close and walk to the passenger door and lock it with a key, but DONT THROW THE HANDLE IN THE LOCK POSITION ON THE PASSENGER DOOR. Did I get that right Mr. P? As a side note I would be very hesitant to pry the door as it may cause fitment issues
Funny how just last week I was kidding HRP on another thread that at least his thread didn't go 7 pages because he couldn't get his door open. Now he can't get his door open, and we are already 5 pages in.
This^^^^ most passenger doors have easier access to the internals , but some drivers doors have "slim-jim" blocks. I asked my husband who is an expert car thief [ actually he learned the skill on a car dealership where locking keys in cars was an occupational hazzard] He said use a piece of blue plastic packing strap folded in half with a sharp crease, and push it past the door seal and work it around the frame until you can lasso the door handle. The tape doesn't damage the paint, and you can push-pull each half to open the fold into a loop [and to steer it]
Managed to do that to a '33 I had; after finally getting the first hinge pin out, I noticed the pounding had shaken the latch handle down and the door was unlocked. Got lucky that day. For some reason it seems to me deuce inner handles work opposite as the open and lock rotation was changed in early '33. Maybe I have that backwards; but I have had '33-'34 door mechanisms that worked both ways. Kinda surprised that more guys don't know how Henry did his locks.
If you get it unlocked remove the spring on the remote handle this will prevent the door from being able to be locked from the inside. My coupe didn't have the spring. It keeps the handle from being held in the locked position.
i wonder why people keep saying to get a key made for the door. don't you people read the post from hrp? the inside handle is locked. you can lock and unlock the outside handle until your blue in the face, it still won't open the door. read the entire post before you post the same stuff other people post. is your time so valuable you don't have time to read the whole post? how about this. drill out the handle. might mess up something inside but you might be able to get to the rod and be able to pull it.
I don’t have door panels installed yet. I could possibly make a slim Jim and see if I can figure out how jimmy it
FHGary, as for people not reading previous posts, that is one of my pet peeves on HAMB. IMO, if you can't take the time to read the previous posts, then don't waste our time with your post on something already covered.
^^^^ wow, that’s a new one for me. FWIW , I posted about removing the door lock. As neither of my cars actually have door locks, I didn’t realise that this wouldn’t work. They don’t have driver side windows either, so I haven’t locked myself out yet. Although I did open my daughter in laws late model BMW when the service guy couldn’t. But that’s OT for here....
That's exactly right. The only way to get the drivers door unlocked is by lifting the handle. And I don't believe the pass door will unlock with the key if the inside handle is in the lock position. Just hope you didn't lean over and lock the pass door by pushing the handle down...got out ,slammed the driver door, broke the spring and both handles are down (locked).
And the bar between the latch and the handle is between the upholstery and the inside of the door; so no slim jim'n.
I see this as a win win!! Can't open the door so you don't have to fix the heater!! Plus you get to rack up your thread and post count!!! Pete
Not on a 32. The connector bar is on the inside of the door. But the bottom channel of the window will be at or below the handle and connector bar, so you probably still can't get to the bar. I gotta laugh at all the guys still suggesting to get a locksmith to make a new key. After the thing is opened, and HRP has replaced the broken spring in the handle pivot, I think he should clock his handles so the weight of the handle will keep the door unlocked, rather than locked. If the spring ever slips and lets the weight of the handle rotate the pivot, at least it will fall to the unlock position. My handles point straight down.
Well, I finally have the part to fix the heater but can't get inside to do so, getting in the car is the most important thing, then repairing whatever damage that happens in the process plus finding and diagnosing what actually happened or broke. What is the obsession with post counts? HRP
BTW, I have called the locksmith 3WJOHN mentioned and I'm waiting for him to finish a job he is currently working on and He told me he will come to my place and see if he can get the door unlocked, he also said if he can't there will be no charge. HRP
Well Danny lets put it this way, You have been building cars for over 40 years,You can build them in your sleep, but you claim you can,t get a heater or lock to work( I don,t believe it) That is where the post count comes in! Just saying! But don,t mind me I,m just a Street Rodder( Bless my little Heart) Pete
Pete, as you well know, building is the enjoyable part of hot rods or customs, trouble shooting is a pita. I can and will get in, I just kept hoping for some Divine Intervention or a glimmer of brilliance from a member that has tackled these problems in the past, I will gain entry, hopefully the locksmith knows something we don't but if all else fails I will get inside with minimal damage but damn the torpedo's of it takes the use of a small 3 lb. adjustment tool and I have to vacuum glass for 2 weeks I will be victorious. HRP
I can relate...but not on the pre-1940 terms. (well, I've had lock problems with my '32 Five window, my '34 Five window, and two of my '46s.) The key/handle independence is still realized. I had my lock cylinder pawl break last week in my '55 F100, took 3 days to get a new 'parts packet' that would replace the broken pawl. (right behind the key cylinder, under the coil spring) Easy fix, but fresh in my mind...Would you believe that Saturday afternoon, wife Joey came home in her O.T. late BMW, got out, locked it...(click) and NO more action in the key cylinder. Key turned freely... New cylinder kit due to arrive today. Just a funny coincidence. (Same identical breakage!) Key battery is inop, one is coming. (new key at dealer is $300+.) Hope you don't have to revert to the hammer fix, Danny...Deuces HATE that!
Did you hear the one about the Blonde locked in her car? She called the locksmith on her cell phone and asked them to "Hurry, I'm locked in my car!" They asked her why she couldn't unlock the door? She said "I can't. The keys are in the lock on the outside of the car!"
Too wiggel door glass tell it gose down a little,something like this, shake raddle n roll,dancing is up to you,LOL ;
The Jalopy Journal
