I've been using these fuel filters on my cars since I first saw one on a 64 Pontiac Grand Prix with a 421 that I bought in 1974. They came standard on Pontiacs with air conditioning.. They made one for the Corvette 365 that has threads for tubing on all three ports..
As others have said check your electrical. Could be a crack showing up when it is hot. 80% of carb problems are timing.
Quick fix to see if the fuel is getting hot. Get some plumbing insulation, put it on see if it works.
Put a REAL electric fuel pump at the tank. Ditch what you have, use a Carter rotary pump. The small pump will not keep up with the heat. It worked for me.
We tried this on a 460 Ford in a stock car and it was the cure. Before the feature we'd line them all up. Everyone thought we were nuts.
As stated above, add a good electric fuel pump near the gas tank, and just for insurance wind about a yard of coper tubing around something to make a coil of tubing that will act as a cooler and the cloths pins.
Same here! Went through many of the same symptoms on my Hemi roadster indicating vapor lock. Changed and rerouted the lines, new electric fuel pump, new filter, new coil, phenolic carb spacers. Like you, I tried everything and then changed out the ignition module and it solved it! When it heated up it failed. Drove me crazy. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
I suspect its fuel percolation my Mopar 360 4 bbl Edelbrock Perfirmer manifold did it Had to put on a thick carb insulator and it did the trick If I did it again I would install an air gap manifold
Man you guys are great! Thank you for the excellent suggestions. Fuel pressure dropped significantly after the test drive from 4 1/2lbs down to 1 1/2lbs measured off an extra port on the regulator. I'm suspecting I ****ed something into the fuel filter. But the general consensus is that the fuel pump I bought should be replaced with a Carter rotary so I'll go ahead and do that as well. I'll also figure out a way to insulate the fuel lines and replace the ignition system. Its a no-name electronic distributor setup that I've run si ce I built the car. Anyone have a recommendation for a quality ignition system they trust for a Mopar 360? Thanks again everyone for the help. Even though I'm still stuck I don't feel stranded with all the help you're offering me. NAES Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
OK the gloves are off and its time to knock this project out of the park once and for all! I ordered a Carter Rotary pump, new billet distributor kit with coil and ignition control module, plugs and wires. These with the above mentioned ideas will hopefully get me back on the road. If this doesn't work I'm going to have to fly one of you guys out to figure it out for me! Hahaha Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I run an air gap on my 355 Chevy, there are a lot of nay-sayers about them being used on the street but I have zero hot weather fuel issues.
My old man had an international with a half dissolved J cloth in the tank. It did exactly what your is doing. The cloth would plug the pick up in the tank. Shut it off for ten minutes and it would run fine for about a 1/2 hour.
Wow its been a while since I posted on this thread. Today I finally finished up this project for the most part. To recap- new tank, elec fuel pump, hard lines, pressure regulator, return line and carb rebuild. Today I finished wiring the fuel pump relay which was pretty straight forward. I ordered a relay socket so if this one dies it'll be a remove and replace deal. I don't love where the fuel pump is mounted behind the tank but I had to try and get it down low. There is no room in front or along side the tank. Its still higher than the bottom of the tank and I think I'll be alright but I'll be keeping an extra close eye on the scrubline back there along with a fire extingusher. I have a Holley fuel pressure regulator and with this pump I can't get the pressure lower thab 5.5lbs. Anyone have any tricks to make this one go down lower or am I looking at another unit? If so, any recommendations on which one to get? The inside of the carb was a mess to put it bluntly. Even though I rebuilt it about 2 years ago, the seals were all cracked and dried. I looked back and I used a generic rebuid kit I found on Amazon. That was a mistake. I've used rebuild kits from Mike's Carburetors in the past with good results and I'm not sure why I didn't last time. Either way, rebuilding the carb with his kit helped make it run smoother than it has in a very long time. A quick trip to the gas station was awesome! The wagon had great power and no flat spots, etc. I'm still going to replace all the ignition equipment since I have it and I'm also going to buy thermal sleeving for the fuel line in the engine compartment. I still need to add a few clamps throughout the system for peace of mind but overall I'm extremely optimistic that the bad luck with this thing is almost behind me. I would go out and put in more time today but the smoke from the fires is really rough. Here's a few pics. If you see anything that needs attention, please let me know. Lastly, you guys have my gra***ude for this project and so many others in the past. Those that reached out vis PM, I can't thank you enough for the advice and encouragement. NAES Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A stock points distributor triggering a CD box like the MSD6AL or the Vertex Z-6 is one of the best ignitions going..
I realize this is kinda late in the thread, but if I thought I had fuel starvation due to vapor lock, I would get a spray bottle and put a little gas in it. As soon as it refuses to start when hot, I would spray a little fuel in the carb and then crank it again. If it starts momentarily, you have confirmed that you have a fuel problem. If it still doesn't start, then I would be looking for electrical gremlins. If you do what I would do, you have to be very careful and don't try having someone crank it while you are under the hood. Had a friend who got some gas on his shirt. Leaned in to pour some fuel in the carb while someone cranked it. Backfired and burn unit. The point is that you can chase the wrong gremlin and never find the answer.
The fuel pressure regulator had a screw on top. This is how you adjust pressure. I think clockwise will lower pressure. Phil
Thanks guys for the replies. The screw that adjusts pressure is turned all the way down. The lock nut only has 2-3 threads holding it right now. I chased fuel delivery issues and did pour rae fuel down the carb which was hit or miss at best. Once I got it fired I had to keep it up around 2000rpm and had to throw it in neutral at stoplights, etc. I think I'm close though. NAES Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've always been told clothes pins on the fuel line are the cure to vaperlock... but what do I know? The license plate has been in my family for many years since my dads 40 ford stake side had the issue. Sent from my SM-G975U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The sure fix for vapor lock is a return line. You said that early on in this thread, but didn't want to do it. It will fix vapor lock and stop all this screwing around. If you still have problems after the return line it will be electrical.
All your work looks good, the only thing I see is the steel line running to the carburetor should be shorter with a longer rubber line. Firewall is a fixed location, engine is not, there needs to be a little more vibration hose in that area.
Are you sure your float doesn't have a leak in it? It seems odd that you can get enough fuel to run at elevated rpms but not at idle. That would seem to indicate that the pump is capable of pumping fuel when its operating faster. Any chance that you have a pump push rod thats worn too short or the pump arm is bent a little and not making a full stroke? Shootin in the dark, but odd problems are often the result of something thats usually taken for granted.
i would run it with the clean carb and see if it is fixed,then you will know what the trouble was.it is the process of elimination,if you do a bunch of stuff and the problem goes away.you never really know what it was.
May not be same for you but I had what I thought was vapor-lock on my 52' and fought it until one day, I realized I had a non-vented gas cap. When I installed a vented gas cap, the problem went away.
Everything seems to finally be going in the right direction. I have about an hour of run time on the new system amd everything has run perfectly. Fuel sending unit took a **** so a new one is on the way. Hopefully I'll take it out this weekend and put some miles on her and report back. Thanks again everyone. NAES Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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