Imron paint

Haveing fresh air mask meens nothing if its hooked up to normal compressed air. You need a crazy filteration systom to convert your compressed air in to fresh air to breath, yo ur normal oil and water seperator is not that. Or 3m makes a cordless systom but thats over $1,000.

 

Thanks, I have got a 3m battery Pak system , it is a complete remote system that cost 1300.00 dollars, I think it is worth it for my health, wearing it makes me feel like a hazmat worker, even though I am going to paint one car , I can use it spraying 2 part laquer's for my cabinets that I spray for a living. I really appreciate everyone's opinions on the thread, I support safety first , my wife is in the sales dept. of a health and safety company, she will keep me safe !! I wish the paint company's would produce paint that safe for the backyard guy to use, because too many guy's get sick and worst. I know I have always thought if I can smell something and it smells toxic, it is no good for me, getting the info from my wife , she has told me that there is some BAD chemicals that we cannot smell !!they will with only short exposure ****ing KILL you !!! Guy's get the proper equipment or pay someone who has the right stuff to do it for you, don't be a hero , because you be a Dead Dummy! Thanks 66tintop

 

Just a brief word here on what solvents and chemicals can do to you: my girlfriend used to own a marine chemical business and spent her life around that stuff - mixing it, blending it. Luckily she got out of the business but as a result of the exposure she suffers from MCS - Multiple Chemical Sensitivity. It dominates our lives and she has severe allergic reactions to just about everything. Everything we use from body products to household cleaners has to be fragrance free - everything. One of the worst offenders are perfumes and colognes which it is impossible to avoid when going out in public. They attack her central nervous system and can end up in respiratory failure and a rush visit to the ER. Nowadays they are almost all synthesized - made from chemicals, not natural substances. Check this article out to find out why we are poisoning ourselves on a daily basis and if it doesn't scare you it certainly should:

cleanerindoorair.org/publications/pamphlets/why-go-fragrance-free/


www.multiplechemicalsensitivity.org

Us car guys spend a lot of time around chemicals whether it be carb or brake cleaner, degreasers even the waxes and polishes. If you value your life and your quality of life take responsibility and wear respiratory equipment - be it a simple N95 mask when generally using spray products to full blown air fed respiratory equipment when painting.

Safety is no accident....

 

Really, so I'm wrong- "cuz I'm oldz schoolzzzz" and I like Imron. LOL so the last thing you sprayed there wasn't even a little clear laying around to see for yourself. Never compared one clear to the next brand to brand ? Never looked at the way the solids content in the same system from the same manufacturer changes the color on the same base? Never noticed the tint of a given clear vs another? Never had a project important enough you age tested spray outs? Never melted clear over an old repair on a touch up so one side is perfect but the other is off even though the base matched? Clear makes a huge difference in the way a color looks. I like direct glossy color, some like the shellac look and refer to it as "depth". That is up to your preference. There are cars beyond the average streetrod that still favor my thinking but even HotRod did an article many years ago pointing out the finer points of when and when not to use a clear coat vs single stage. The gist is solid colors tend to look "better" in single stage, black is the worst but if you decide to use clear on black favor one with a blue or at worst a green tint vs one the directly yellows. Try single stage with a 4000 cut on something small maybe even cheat with an Avbralon pad and while you may never agree with my opinion, I'm far from 100% wrong.

Everything has it's place so for example, the 36 Cord I've just been sub'd the metal work on will be black Deltron base clear once half the body is rebuilt... but that is because it will be driven on a regular basis. If we single stage it UV will eventually chalk the finish. Now a buff or a light cut will bring it right back but in this case base clear just fits the bill. A mostly garaged car or say an owner that builds custom cars for living and doesn't mind the up keep on the other hand is different story.

 

I shot alot of it back in the Early 80s I was the only one in the shop it did not seem to bother. My boss at the Ford Truck store Body shop took on all the KCMO fire trucks to paint Chrome yellow.I would go in after close on Sat.& Sun , He would buy the Beer & come back & check on me from time.They all seem to come out looking good& shiny you had to keep it wet, I Dontttt think it bottherrd ME any?

 

*yep, today's Imron that you buy is nothing like the "old" stuff. but, remember that if you have to repair a big scratch, etc it is very difficult to gently sand and then reblend. plus, if you try to color sand you will weaken the true strength of the paint.

 

for an original lacquer look, get lacquer- that's all there is to it- and it's making a comeback- cuz these iso paints are bs silly stupid products- you can get lacquer from a place like this below

http://www.hiberniaautorestorers.com/nitrocellulose-automotive-laquers.php

if you want paint that is safe to spray with sensible shop safety equipment like a charcoal respirator, get a straight lacquer from a place like this- and buff it out. in the end it will look better and have a deeper shine than an urethane, polyurethane, or epoxy- with less work and a lot more safety. it sands very easily. and you won't need a $2000 respirator suit, mask, air supply- which is just silly stupid to have to do, just to paint a car. we're painting cars, not going to the moon, or diving to the bottom of the ocean. Dupont for one, is the most misleading company about their paint products- they warnings for forced air respirators should be ON THE CAN- and if they sell less paint, so be it. you guys that spray this schit without getting sick, just got LUCKY- nothing else.


this is an old thread, but I was compelled to reply to it. I had sprayed straight lacquer, acrylic enamel, synthetic enamel for years with no problems. when the catalyzed urethanes/polyurethanes, and the catalyst additives for synthetic/acrylic enamel became all the rage in the 1980's, I started using them. first on synthetic and acrylic enamel simply due to the lower cost. didn't have any problems. I stayed away from polyurethanes/urethanes due to cost. never liked base/clear out of a spray gun, because it looks too wet. the factory Big Three paint jobs are an immersion that is baked, and looks different and more subtle. out of a spray gun clear just looks too gaudy. and clear does start to peel eventually, on practically every car. eventually I wanted to put straight urethane on my car, and had a really bad experience with it- ended up in the ER with breathing problems. Now about the only thing I can paint, is water based latex or stain on my house- or heat paint on a stove or exhaust manifolds. that urethane sort of ended my painting hobby/career. take my advice, DON'T USE IT. that painting system was a marketing ploy, getting big bucks for a small amount of chemical. Imron was selling for $300/gallon, and some of those paints are $500/gallon. a big moneymaker. that's all it is.

pics attached of a straight black lacquer job on a vintage 6-7 figure $$ FERRARI. need I say more ? how much shinier does it have to be ? this holdout nonsense of urethane paints is something for a missile or B-52 or nuclear submarine, or a water tank- not for a car. the high dollar car guys would not put iso paints on a Ferrari or Maserati if the paint and labor was free- and they surely would not breathe the stuff in either. we've been sold a line of bs with these urethane paints- it's time to wake up, smell the coffee, and save our health and lungs. 1000's of people have been harmed by the urethane paints- it's time to outlaw them already.

 

here is the shop in NJ using all vintage paints on their restorations, not gloppy muffed up urethane jobs, that make the owner or painter sick while doing it. look at the cars in the homepage picture. all you need is the original paint done right. you don't need Imron on a '70 Cuda. Imron was made for a Kenworth that is on the road daily and logs 10 million miles of highway driving in all kinds of weather. why use it ??

http://www.hiberniaautorestorers.com/index.php