**In like a lion, out like a HAMB** March 2013 Banger Meet

I'll fix it exactly how you said, if you don't want to.

 

Make sure you find the end of the crack. Pinning the crack is also a good way to fix the crack. Some times when you heat things up to braze, the crack gets longer.

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Winters Performance offers locking and limited slip diffs for the V8 8 3/8" QC that they make. I believe the axles are simular to Ford 9" or 8" type.

If starting from scratch this might be the way to go, using modern components.

J

 

That's what I'm planning on doing...I've got a pressure gauge from an late teens Dodge and a '22 Cadillac pressure pump - I'm going to be running a Winfield SR-B and I understand they like around 1.5 psi, so I think I'll be in good shape. I'm going to see if I can find a blow off valve to keep from over pressurizing the tank though.

Here's a mockup of my pump & gauge;

 

Don't forget about a pressure-relief gas cap either...this one has a T handle that screws through the cap and applies pressure to a leather lined disc. Holds & relieves pressure pretty well.

 

pretty cool cap. do you know what i came off of? i also run a hand pump on my single seater to pressurize the tank. i just use a hidden pressure regulator to limit the pressure to the carbs . works really well unless you have any leaks, then your busy pumping the whole time when you should be driving!

 

I remember guys talking about locking the differential by welding the spiders or some such thing. The A rear end was popular for midgets and sprints because of all of the different ratios available This was, of course, before the advent of the quick change. Art Chrisman's 25 used an A Halibrand. The weak point of the A rear end is the way the pinion is mounted. when too much pressure (torque) is applied to the rear end the ring gear flexes away from the pinion and the pinion then tries to climb the ring gear and things break. The way this was cured was by installing a "snubber" which is designed to keep the ring gear from flexing away from the pinion. Halibrand used a snubber in some of their rear ends. I have just installed a snubber in an A rear end, photos to follow. Another thing about Halibrand quick change's for the model A rear end is that there were 2 models, the midget, which use's 1" pick off gears and the sprint, which uses 1 3/8' or whatever the thicker ones are. The Kiwi A's use the 1" gears. That is the only difference. Locked rear ends are great if you are only going straight ahead or are able to break the rear end loose on turns, especially on a light weight car.

 

Thank you Bill. Would a 29 chassis with a 27 roadster body be considered to be a "light" rear end? Light enough to break loose? Could I drive it on the street if I welded the spider gears? Any pics / diagrams on how to do it properly? TIA for your help.

 

No idea what it came off of...The main body is cast brass (nickel plated) with a steel T 'handle'. I've seen similar caps in some of the old hot rod books, here's one on Ernie McAfee's modified as seen in Muroc: When The Hot Rods Ran;



And another on Dick Megugorac's Modified;

 

welding spiders is a dirt thing !

 

Yes

 

No, I don't think that it would steer very well. The locked rear end only wants to go straight ahead without the differential turning freely. When you come to a corner with just a little sand or dirt on the pavement the front wheels just slide. You might be able to punch it and burn around the corner. I once drove a dragster with an Alexander OHV engine on the street for a mile or so, went fine on the straight but wide turns to get around a corner on the pavement.
Funny story about that dragster, I had bought a shop built tractor from a friends father, A engine AA trans, dual rear tires on a TT rear end. When I drove the dragster down the street I passed by the place where I had bought the tractor and my friends mother later told him, " You should see what Bill did to that old tractor!"

 

If you're welding spider gears it's a good idea to weld in some steel not just weld up the gears.
This may be more of a problem for a later model/higher tq/hp engines but it's the only way we kept them together for speedway. When we welded just the gears they invariably broke.

 

And then there is this. I also remember hearing that some just poured lead in the spiders to lock them up. Never had any experience with this but heard of it being done.

 

my expeerience is a "FULLY LOCKED" rear will eat tires & axles on pavement . tried it !

 

The late Bob Lee had an import limited slip modified to fit into a flat head V8 rear end. He used to "light em up " at the hill climbs.

 

Now we just need to find out which make and model import ...he must have done a good bit of research and then a shit load of machining .

 

I always wondered how much a "shit load" is

 

It depends on what you eat the night before.

If you pose that question over on Ford Barn, they will chastise you for not measuring your shit with a stock Ford shit scoop.

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Carb question. I've got a 29 A coupe stored at a friend's place but the carb has started to drip some and, as the car isn't readily available to me, I don't have any model or make or other identifying numbers to help ID the carb. I'm hoping a simple rebuild kit will make it right but before I order a kit could anyone help ID the carb for me? Is it stock? Or? Any clues I could pass on to my bud to help him ID the carb for me? Thanx, Gary

 

Err, eat a can if chili and sit on the can a little while later... then stand up, turn around and you will know.

 

Gary,
That looks like a Tillotson X or XF.

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best thing is to be sure you turn the gas OFF ...............

 

Well all right! I'm going to ask my buddy if he can confirm the model nr and then order the rebuild kit. We do keep the petcock off as SOP in storage. I don't get up to see the car very often but when I was up there just a few days ago we discussed the leak and what to do, but then I forgot to write down the details before I came home, like a dumb s..t. Thanx guys, Gary

 

The leak could be a bowl gasket, a leaking float valve, or the float could be set too high.


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It shouldn't leak if the gas valve is shut off in the car. I agree it looks like a Tillotson to me. Very simple to rebuild, 2 fiber washers and a bowl gasket. If it just sits make sure the gas valve is shut off and let the car idle till it runs out of gas. No gas = No leak. Hope this was helpful.

 

Yamalube makes a really good carb dip...... mix with water and heat it up.... OUTDOORS. It's reuseable!! Just strain out the dirt

 

He should pm Brent or MikeK .......they are both experts and have jumbo sized stock ford shit scoops

 

I once took a Model A diff centre down to a mates diff shop and spent an entire arfternoon with calipers comparing it too the shelves full of Posi centres

Not a lot of candidates as the bearing spacing is quiet wide and the crown wheel flange quiet small

My plan was complicated by wanting to run it in my Halibrand 101, so through shaft clearance was a constraint. Might be more choices in an A or V8 housing

From memory, early Suzuki 4x4 looked like a candidate, and also one of the korean imports we have here, a Hyundai from memory

I'll have to have another go sometime, with more traction we could REALLY test the centre main

 

YEAH good stuff, that covers the research , my only option is Pick-a-Part... no diff shops in my town,

I wonder if the guy who passed with the "secret" in his diff, left any notes or information????
Bill, Did you know him well enough to ask somebody ?