**In like a lion, out like a HAMB** March 2013 Banger Meet

Maybe something like this could be slipped into the existing hemispheres?

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Automotive/DifferentialsLockingDifferentials/PCT_338161

Couldn't find dimensions on their site, or power handling .....but it would be an alternative to trying to find a complete hemsphere replacement which is what I attempted

 

If I remember correctly it came from a shop in No Ca that was in to converting them. Never heard any more about it but will inquire. BUT remember, it was a flathead V8 rear end not model A. I don't recall seeing many A's at the hillclimbs just spinning one tire anyways.

 

Opinions on tire sizes requested......

For my '31 Tudor, I have 2 options (one budget-friendly, and one more "accepted")...

1) I have a set of '34 17" wires in very good condition, just needs a coat of paint. Looking at Coker's site, I can buy set of Excelsior Bias Blackwalls (with Alliance discount) for around $450, but the sizes are limited. It looks like my setup would be 5.50-17 on the front (28" tall) and 6.50-17 on the rear (30"), the smallest/largest Comp V.

EDIT: Just talked to Coker. The 5.50-17 is no longer available! Just can't catch a break! Is it kosher to mix tire tread patterns? What about the "standard" Excelsiors All Black in, say, 4.75/5.00-17"?

2) I can obtain a set of '35 16" wires from a friend. If I run 16's, I would like Firestone Deluxe blackwalls in 5.25- and 7.00-, but that would cost me around $700 (again with Alliance discount).

For a 'banger rod, is 1 inch enough rubber rake?

If you were on MY budget (really skinny), what would YOU do?

 

Here is my 30 Tudor. 4.50-17 front 6.50-18 rear. no suspension drop.

I prefer the longer spokes of the 17" set up.

 

Use a file to flatten the surfaces of the body of the carb, the used gaskets might even seal after.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=755361&highlight=stromberg+with+file

 

A little kink in the cog.....

The 5.50-17 Excelsior Comp V is no longer available.

What about this front (Excelsior All Black) kinda European-looking
http://www.cokertire.com/tire-sizes/475-500-17-excelsior-blackwall-tire.html

with this rear (Excelsior Comp V)
http://www.cokertire.com/tire-sizes/650-17-excelsior-comp-v.html

 

5.50x16 and 7.50x17 stock suspension except reverse eye front.

 

Also, did they make a dual updraft intake? How's the performance?

 

Damn that would look great in my driveway.

 

Why? Can you elaborate a bit on your set up that requires a pressure pump? You are no longer Gravity feed or do not want an electric or vacuum fuel pump? Or is it just for going up hill, where your carb is a bit higher then stock?

 

hey

 

I can't answer for gwhite, but for me I want to run downdraft stromberg carbs. Since Model A's doesn't have a fuel pump. Something must be done to get fuel to the carbs as they need higher pressure. I have been looking for a B engine. For the fuel pump, But am also considering a counterbalanced A engine. If I go with the A engine i will need to use a electric fuel pump, or pressurize the tank. I am leaning towards pressuizing the tank, from what I read you just need to pump it every little while and you are good to go.

 

Ditto, more or less. I'm working on a '27 T Roadster Pickup with the tank in the bed. Motorvation comes from a Winfield equipped A-banger with SR-B downdraft. Carb will pretty much sit even with the tank, so I need some pressure to feed it. I'm leaning toward a prewar/immediate postwar build and have gone to great lengths to keep everything period, so no electric fuel pump for me. Besides, hand pumping will add to the fun and I already have the pressurized cap, pump, and gauge.

 

mr. gasket makes a nice lil fuel pump with 2-3# pressure . no regulator needed ....

 

I've been curious if the wheels and tires from my Dodge Bros project would fit my stock A, looks like they will. 5.50x17 and 7.50x17. I figured they wouldnt clear the rear fenders.
Thanks Hitchhiker now i'm really going to have to try them on.
Do you know if the mate to the A drums correctly?

 

I have 27 RP as well I use a cheap aftermarket 12 volt jap pump goes real well make sure you use a filter before the pump though

 

Leaking carb: The fuel bowl looks pretty full in the pict. Did you run it till it dropped some before leaving it? The shut off valve may be leaking.

 

Hello, this is my first month that I am interacting with the Monthly Banger Thread. I have been reading them and trying to digest.

I am getting to the next phase on my current speedster build, the engine, I am using a stock Model A, lightening the flywheel, I have a set of Charlie Yapp's Cast Iron Duel Y headers, and pair of SU HIF-6's.

I know several SU's have been mounted on Model A Engines, but I am curious regarding cross over tubes. A lot has been written here about the Carbs, but not the tubes. Nor much about the linkage to run them.

Have you used crossover tubes not, if so or if not why? The intakes for the SU's will be easy to make, but if I am to add a crossover tube it needs to go up and over the headers, or the intakes a bit longer to clear the headers so the tubes run in front. I like the clean look of the SU's with the Header Y pipes and no tubes, but want to do it once.

Regarding the ball end linkage bits, is there a source for the components?

Thx in advance.

 

I do not know. But would be curious as I have some myself.

 

Yes you will need a tube if you look at all the cast manifolds you will notice they are linked by a holow section which is the tube. It creates an equal va*** for the carbs.

 

Tilitson type carbs have a problem because the light casting will bend if over tightened causing leakage it is so bad that most second hand carbs will be stuffed.

 

I have '32 18" and '33/'34 17" Ford wires on my stock 1930 Tudor that I posted the picture of earlier. Bolted right up, no support rings.

'

 

Yes the ford ones do, Not sure about the dodge wheels.

 

If you don't trust what I say, and you have to end up proving to yourself that this will work, why ask the question in the first place?


.

 

For a second I thought this months banger meat was going to ****...... haha. Had 3 bangers at March Meets 2013 in the rain. Saw a couple pieces of banger schtuff in the swapmeet. Horseless carriage swap is coming up here in Bako, anybody makin the trek?

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

There was no "I think" or " I've been told" in my statement.

My post states that I did it and the picture proves it. No opinion there.

If some one answers your question, Thank them or ask more questions. If you don't believe their statement prove they are wrong.

.
.

 

I don't understand. You asked if the early wires ( 32 to 35 )fit a model a drum and the answer is yes. They fit without a support ring. Why the response to 40 drums and their need for support rings. That was not your question. If you need more than one response or need more info look at this site. Model A Ford Garage ~ Early V8 Ford Brake Drums

 

Again, why? I have seen some SU's on Bangers here where I do not see a tube. I know that the MG's and Triumphs do use tubes, but I am not sure why I need to create equal vacuum, or if I even do, the way a banger fires. There is no overlap on the strokes.

 

The only balance tube I have is the connection to my wolf whistle. I am sure the balace tube is to improve out of tune carbs.
Brendan

 

some british cars have a balance tube built into the air box (plenium) I think Fiat also had this