You need to heat the pulley fast so it doesn’t transfer the heat to the crank or they will expand at the same rate. Use a #2 tip on your acetylene torch around the perimeter of the pulley with puller applying pressure. Remember you only are trying to make the pulley expand not the crank snout. you can also drill a set of holes side by side across the pulley so you can cause a fracture line too release the pulley. Frank
You can also tap one hole to 1/8 NPT and screw in a Steel pipe plug and tighten the hell out of it. The pulley should fracture and almost fall off
I'm missing something here, What is the benefit of a belt driven cam in the first place? Nearly every car maker that uses them strongly advises changing them before a specific mileage, on the premise that failure of the belt, and the resulting collateral damage is inevitable. Recent consulting with my engine guy steered me away from a gear driven set-up, that I thought would sound cool and eliminate timing variance. It's all high rpm stuff, he said. "Fancy gee-gaws designed to pry open your wallet" I'm using a Cloyes double roller in this build, just like we learned to years ago. After several Comp cams lobes disintegrated, and no f**ks were given by Comp cams customer "service" He refuses to use any of their products, and turned away a customer who insisted on running their stuff
I saw something on a site called yellow billit? Bullet? Something like that..anyways there a guy asking the same thing , he is getting some answers one guy tell how to build a tool that gets it done , also something about installing the system with out the alignment dowls is best? I just put in comp cam belt drive system lower gear/pulley removal sbc and things started popping up. If its you on the other site ..never mind. Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The belts stretches over time but very rarely break unless the engine come to a sudden halt like a immediate seizure. the benefit of a belt on the street is questionable for certain. what it does allow you to do is on the fly cam timing adjustments either advance or retard with the simple loosing of 3 bolts. It also ****s up any harmonics that could otherwise transfer from the crank to the valve train and takes less HP to drive and zero metal to metal contact. Again, on the street, probably a moot point .
It is not me and my condolences go out to him. I feel his pain. Wait, let me make sure I didn't post this anywhere else
Also I already have a new belt , seals upper and lower and ordered a new bottom pulley. And right now im reconsidering that decision. It may be time to back that train up and just send the **** back to summit and go with a cloys double roller. who makes the best billet cover ?
Do you know what the gear metal is? I’d ***ume being a belt drive and since the threads pulled out of it, it’s not a hard metal.?
I didn’t take time to read this entire thread, but that pulley is a two piece taper grip type. The threads toward the center have to have the bolts removed for dis***embly. The outer ring has threaded holes. The outer holes are likely to either seat the taper, or to pull the taper apart. The parting line between the two parts cant be separated with the bolts in place. Bottom line, remove the bolts and either push the outer part of the gear back, or pull it forward, but only use the outer threaded holes not the inner.
So the crank must have a key slot? If so, center tap and use a drill with a steady hand. Start small, work your way up in drill size. Soon the bit will start chattering on the key. When that happens the gear won’t have full contact anymore. You could then take a drift punch and whack it in the hole a few times. Get an idea of how deep you need to go, wrap tape around the bit as a stop guide. If for some reason that won’t relax the gear enough, use a die grinder in the hole you just made, and work out to the edge of the gear.
Its not aluminum but its a soft as hell steel as a 1/2 piece of br*** round stock put some flat marks on the teeth and there was no heat applied.
you would think that but you would be incorrect. its a solid one piece gear. I] the cutter 4 holes you see are for the sheet metal belt guard. they are 10/32's . the 3 inner puller holes are 12/24 that I have drilled and taped to 1/4-20.
Last ditch, again with heat. This is voodoo **** but when you dis***emble old Model A shocks those covers are pure misery. There's also that ring that cinches em in place. Ok, the voodoo. You heat the ring to screw it down but once heated you need to quench it right away and got to work. Magic. Next you do it again on the 'bell', heat it real good, immediate cold water, spin it off. Took me a couple tries to get the mojo down pat but hot damn (no pun intended) it works like a charm. Fast FWD to a cpl months back, had a real nasty ghetto rat of a trailer hitch ball that essentially told me to go **** myself no matter if heat, wax, cheater bar pipe wrench, just as big a single finger as one could imagine. I got red again and blatsed it with cold water. Spun right down, well, that is until the threads rolled from all the work prior which I didn't care about and I ended up cutting it off for the remainder of the removal job. Must be the sudden shock of temp change that breaks the "weld" created from the metals being so close. And make no mistake, although I don't know the 50 cent word for it metals so tight influenced by the harmonics of the engine or ch***is vibes will indeed create and actual weld. Model A shocks just rust from 90+ years in the ****, but parts will harmonically weld together. Not full on expert weld as we know it, but they will "weld" and maybe that opens the mind to a possible avenue. Sorry to be so wordy but food for thought, maybe. Who knows the term for that weld anomaly?
Yes, Highlander, the heat and quench method has worked on a few things around here, mostly rusty stuff. Let's hope he gets this part off somehow.
Heat a line red length wise and hit it with a sharp chisel, do this every 90 degrees and it will fall off, use this to remove bearing races stuck to a spindle. My concern would be striking it on the main bearings. I’m kind of with squirrel, I would pull the crank and use a puller. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I never had a belt drive, never saw one in person, but is it possible to pull the crank with that crank pulley still installed? Belt drives run dry, there is an aluminum cover with a crank seal behind the ***embly so I think it might not be easy to take the crank out. The engine side cover is mounted over the 1/4” dowels in the front of the block and the lower pulley is holding the cover back, how can you get the cover off the dowels? Am I missing something obvious that I’m not seeing?
Quite possibly, I have never run one either. Didn’t he say he did main bearings though? I may be wrong on that as well, I didn’t go back and check. My wife says I’m always wrong so I’m used to it!! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Whomever said to ditch the MAPP gas and use Oxy/AC was spot on. I didn't even try the MAPP gas. I think he was right about that heat soaking everything . Its off. See the pics. I went to hazard fart and bought a #2 brazing tip and heated the pulley around its cir***ference for less that 2 mins with oxy/ac and the pulley came loose. the crank never even got warm. The keyway goes all the way through but you could not see that with the pulley on the crank. It clearly sheared 1/2 of the rear key when it sheared the front key off. I have a new belt, seal kit and lower gear for the belt drive. Im still trying to decide if I should just ditch the belt drive and use this stuff or put it back together the way it was. Chain. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-3500tx9 CVR cover. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-tc2350cl pointer needed for this billet cover. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-tp3700s Here are the pics. notice how that damn rear flange / belt guard is attached with 4 small screws. It certainly appeared to me that it was part of the gear.
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