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Incredible welds

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rusty f100, Oct 6, 2008.

  1. SOLID9
    Joined: Dec 7, 2010
    Posts: 144

    SOLID9
    Member
    from EuroTrip!

    This thread is what I look forward to seeing when I log onto this website haha

    Fantastic looking work yet again guys!
     
  2. jdustu
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 728

    jdustu
    Member
    from Detroit

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    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2014
  3. Some damn good welds in here. Mine dont belong however I'm just looking for some insight in to how i can improve. I've got a Miller Diverson 165 TIG. Ive been welding for a while now but ive only TIG'd for less than 8 hrs. Let me know what you guys think.

    Heres some of my practice work...

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    Thanks

    Justin
     
  4. 510madmav
    Joined: Dec 29, 2009
    Posts: 814

    510madmav

    What kind of Heli-arc machines is everyone running here?
     
  5. Johnny99
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,115

    Johnny99
    Member

    Building the straight axle for my Willys truck today. Spindle boss before & after. I got too many projects, need to stay focused:eek:

    John
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,854

    Retro Jim
    Member

    Incredible welding ! Not to sure what welders most are using but I guess they are all TIG welds . I can't see a MIG welder doing some of these welds . Just curious on how long have these welders been welding to make welds like these ? I am sure many have a life time in welding but just curious about someone that has never TIG welded before . For the regular welder in a garage at home building their own cars , do we really have to be at this level of welding ? I am talking about the hotrods we build for ourselves .
    Lots of fantastic welder out there !

    Retro Jim
     
  7. Re: your question.
    I seriously doubt that was ever the intention of the thread so the question is mute.
     
  8. DocsMachine
    Joined: Feb 8, 2005
    Posts: 289

    DocsMachine
    Member
    from Alaska

    -No. A weld needs to be, first and foremost, strong enough for the application. If the weld holds, who cares what it looks like?

    However, the skill and technique that creates a strong weld also tends to create a clean weld- and vice versa. If you're already paying attention to the penetration and heat, it takes little effort to also watch your speed and consistency.

    Doc.
     
  9. paco
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,141

    paco
    Member
    from Atlanta

    [QUOTE For the regular welder in a garage at home building their own cars , do we really have to be at this level of welding ?
    Retro Jim[/QUOTE]

    Well RetroJim ... to answer your question with the risk of being a wiseguy ... it is your ass in the drivers seat. I'd want to make sure that the rod I built & welded on would be safe enough to save my life. Then again ... some are not as thoughtful of their own life as I am.

    Just my input ...

    [​IMG]

    PACO
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2011
  10. jdustu
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 728

    jdustu
    Member
    from Detroit

    I use Millers. They actually asked to to interview me at SEMA this week, kinda cool. I've got a Dynasty 200 DX in my home shop and we've got 350s and a 700 at work.




    No, welds don't need to look "incredible". Yes, strength is #1. But Doc pretty much nailed it. If you know what your doing...if you understand the metal and get what the puddle is doing and know how to control it, the bead is gonna look appealing and stay strong. A pretty weld by no means promises strength, but the things that make a weld ugly are typically the very things that will compromise it's integrity.

    FWIW I saw a lot of shit welds on high dollar builds in Vegas. Fab guys need to get back to the basics.
     
  11. river1
    Joined: May 12, 2001
    Posts: 855

    river1
    Member

    i also have a dynasty 200, i'm not too bad on it but some of the welds on this thread are quite impressive.

    later jim
     
  12. Well RetroJim ... to answer your question with the risk of being a wiseguy ... it is your ass in the drivers seat. I'd want to make sure that the rod I built & welded on would be safe enough to save my life. Then again ... some are not as thoughtful of their own life as I am.

    Just my input ...

    [​IMG]

    PACO[/QUOTE]

    Paco, you would be surprised just how many guys do not give 2 shits about that... It never ceases to amaze me here at the school. I've even changed my schpiel to "I don't want you killing someone ELSE"...

    Why pay for a class that is mostly about welding, and then argue with the instructors about the importance of making good welds...?!
     
  13. 510madmav
    Joined: Dec 29, 2009
    Posts: 814

    510madmav

    That's real nice, what machine, amperage etc?

     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2014
  14. 510madmav
    Joined: Dec 29, 2009
    Posts: 814

    510madmav

    Here's some of my stuff , just started with tig a few weeks ago; I'm hooked.
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  15. i need to quit after seeing these
     
  16. jdustu
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 728

    jdustu
    Member
    from Detroit

    Thanks man. No idea on amps. I usually set way high and pedal it. Pry 3/32 ceriated tungsten. Machine on these was a Miller Dynasty 350.
     
  17. WelderSeries
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 768

    WelderSeries
    Alliance Vendor

    Ditto.
     
  18. paco
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,141

    paco
    Member
    from Atlanta


    Me too ... cept I pedal on a Lincoln Precision TIG 275 - use the orange on everything.

    Paco
     
  19. WelderSeries
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 768

    WelderSeries
    Alliance Vendor

    i'm on a Lincoln square wave 255. For 3/16" steel, I usually set it around 190. Sometimes I floor it, sometimes I don't :)
     
  20. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    You guys using the orange ceriated tungsten should switch over to the red 2% thoriated.

    It is far better, will stay sharper and more precice longer and give better results on steel and stainless.
     
  21. paco
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,141

    paco
    Member
    from Atlanta


    It might but ... I go from SS to ALMN. to MS to CHM .... never change just sharpen.

    I'll never go back ... I'm lazy!

    PACO
     
  22. jdustu
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 728

    jdustu
    Member
    from Detroit

    If you haven't used ceriated in a while, it's come a long way the last few years. Much closer to 2% thoriated than it use to be. That being said, you're right....red still rules. If I was paying for it, that would be the tungsten of choice.

    For those wondering, ceriated basically is a "non radioactive" replacement for 2% thoriated.
     
  23. WelderSeries
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 768

    WelderSeries
    Alliance Vendor

    Wait, I am using 2% thoriated. I've used it on aluminum- maybe that makes me the lazy one! I was just farting around on some aluminum... nothing serious. What's this about radioactive?
     
  24. WelderSeries
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 768

    WelderSeries
    Alliance Vendor

    Just did some reading... have you done any welding with lanthanated tungsten?
     
  25. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    If you are using an Inverter power source for aluminum you can still use sharpened 2% thoriated. You can use the same red tungsten for all the metals you weld, stainless ,mild steel and aluminum.

    The welder makers recommend ceriated and while it is good it is still not as good as red thoriated.

    The only problem with the 2% thoriated is that at very high amperages when welding aluminum the tungsten can split lengthwise.

    At lower amperages that most small work is done it works fine without splitting.

    And yes, 2% thoriated is very mildly radioactive, not enough to worry about.
     
  26. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,476

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Lanthanated is similar to ceriated. The best lanthanated you can get is 1 1/2%.

    It operates similar to ceriated, but like ceriated you will be able to see it "dull" (lose the sharp point) while welding.

    It works good, but I still prefer the 2% thoriated as I like the precision it gives, and less sharpening :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2011
  27. dontlifttoshift
    Joined: Sep 17, 2005
    Posts: 652

    dontlifttoshift
    Member

    For me the ceriated (orange) holds up better than the lanthanated (gold). the Lanthanated is supposed to be the safest.....until they find out its not.
     
  28. knotttty
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 422

    knotttty
    Member


    Great video Josh

    I have been watching this thread for a while.. and have been amazed by your post's..great work.,,... and even better that you have done your part for the charities... good on you....

    Roy
     
  29. jdustu
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 728

    jdustu
    Member
    from Detroit

    Thanks Roy, I definitely appreciate the kind words.

    Blue One is definitely right, red is the way to go for whatever you're welding(even on transformers I'd use that on aluminum for most jobs). Like I said, they give me orange at work, so that's what I use. Lanthiated, the few times I've used it, was terrible.

    A few pics:

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    #nationalmetalday....what do you mean, not that kind? by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr

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    Another pass...#mykindofmetal by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr

    I messed with titanium for the first time:

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    Titani-freaking-um by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr

    Some aluminum practice:

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    It left a trail.... by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr

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    Aluminum Tig by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr
     
  30. jdustu
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 728

    jdustu
    Member
    from Detroit

    I think I'm going crazy. Just sit around and run bead after bead....

    [​IMG]
     

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