I haven't done a heck of a lot of sheet metal stuff, but I looked through some of my models and there were a few decent examples I was really happy with the bike fender welds, even with the zinc cleaned of the washers are usually a pain in the butt to weld. -Josh
i weld 3rd year apprentice,in my job experience,i was taught no whipping with the mig just burn it in no stopping or stacking like dimes
not to be a jerk or anything ethier, but who cares about 16 or 18 when you can weld the cutting edge of a razor together!! not my work, but as a welder i have seen alot of these little competitions that the good guys have lol, like welding a soda can closed after drinking it
Just kidding and I meant not as as thin as you can get. Just when people weld stuff thick pieces were used. I just want to see more of the thin stuff welded. It's harder as you said.
Humbled by all of you....Learning oxy acetylene welding with Henrob/Dillon torch...works excellent on light sheet metal patching. Have not seen a mention of it here...watched a live demo at BTT50's by Art [cant remember the last name] any way he cut a little piece out of a pop can and welded the pc back in !....welded cast iron manifold too, all with this great little torch...every shop should have one...has a unique cutting device that cuts like Plasma...Now its called a cobra...go check it out ! WWW.COBRATORCHES.COM/7.html
As with anything ....... 1/2 plate or thin sheet metal ..... time & practice make the difference. Whilst I worked at a construction fab company I DAILY welded .030 aluminum sheet & forms. Became very easy after a day or so ....... 90% of my welding is aluminum anyway. My background with GE don't hurt .... Practice ... Pactice & when you think you got it ..... Practice some more!! Paco
I've been a certified mig/tig welder for over 40 yrs. and have taught some of my helpers a few tricks with tig and mig - with tig, try dipping your rod about 19 times a inch on steel and about half of that on aluminum - depending on rod size - with mig, just running it straight and not washing back[depends on the circumstances - whether its flat or down hill] but watch for the color of the silica that rises to the top of the weld - a light chocolate brown to a beiage color is what you want to see - meaning that you have your heat/wire speed and your travel speed are just about right - a dark or black color means a little hot/slow/slow - unfortunatly I have a ICD and can no longer weld - something I have always loved to do. Some say that thick compared to thin material is easy to weld, but thick is harder to weld do to the amount of penetration that you need for a correct weld[not a cold weld or a hot weld] and with the thin material it hard not to blow through,but with the new tig machines with all of their fine tunning capabilities and all the different size tungston,some so small in dia. that it looks like a needle, you can adjust your amperage down so far that it won't even melt a soda can or razor blade.
This kinda stuff is why I joined the H.A.M.B. Took a TIG class earlier this year, but the school cancelled it summer semester, I was the only one to sign up. Maybe fall semester, don't know yet. May blow up my credit card and get my own machine. Miller Syncro 200 machines are going for a little under 2K on eBay.
I found these Pic's - and I can't remember if I already posted em. I think there pretty interesting, .055 1018 CRS With a slight crown hammered in em. One set of TIG welds. One set of OnA welds. Easy to see witch is witch. ( It was a Hammer forming weld smashin test )
Here are some pictures of Work done in my Shop. I mainly weld 4130 Chromoly and build racing headers from 304/321 Stainless, Titanium, & Inconel. The last picture is a support bracket that was Mig Welded. I do have to say though I do love my Inverter Tig Welder, Still own and use the Old Big Grey Lincoln 300 idealarc.
These were posted on the HAMB as a link awhile ago. The thread was titled "METAL PORN" and was posted by "Imperial Wheeling Machine". Here it is. http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...28&postcount=4
With my machine (a brand new syncrowave) it happened no matter what I tried. I tried pulling the tungston straight out of the top, messed with the post flow, nothing seemed to help. After I got it back from the shop, I couldn't make it pit for anything. The only thing they did was hook my machine up to a load bank for about 6 hours at max amps. It must have had a loose connecton, or something might have been wet. Anyway, it cadallacs now. Try rolling the tungston out of the puddle away from the bead, as you back off the pedal. Keep playing with it, and you'll get it down. The secret to great looking welds, is having everything clean and using the proper heat, and practice practice practice...
Safety razors? In the pic with the three examples of bike frames....One by Ericksen(SPL) another by someone else and the third by Specialized(bicycles)....Can I assume all those welds are quality but the first two are better? Seems like Specialized's weld lays on top more, maybe not as much penetration? Or can you really tell visually? OH! BTW, beautiful work felluhs!
Thanks Langy for the complement. Just making sure I keep my customers happy and also to the gents that took their time to help and teach me! I have worked with some very talented people from the Uk, not only welders but Clay Modellers. Your welds are outstanding as well. Paul B
The Jalopy Journal
