What forum should I post regarding an induction that I want to try. It will combine off the shelf parts but is kind of unique. Thanks
Any part of a car that might show up in pictures (like your Mustang) or parts choices (like fuel injection) that were are not available in 1965 or before, should probably be posted here in the off topic section.
Welcome I found this (your) post in the off-topic section so I'd say you already are in the correct spot. I say "post away". That being said, if the mods feel it needs to be somewhere else, they'll go ahead and move it. Are you the guy who intends to mount 16 Briggs & Stratton 8hp carbs on Gramps old 427 SOHC?
LOL, Not. My concept is to mount a couple of Weber 38/38, or maybe progressive style 32/36's, on a fuel injection, 5.0 lower intake in a OOOO configuration on my GT40P in my '66 Mustang. The movement of the throttle actuator lever is parallel to the ****erflies instead of ninety degrees like usual, which should make using the existing pedal lever easy. Thoughts? BTW, Not sure if the carb pic is accurate, so it's just for reference.
@rose62 That the truck lower ? Any ways I will work . Few options I can think of , I would not run Progressive . Have one carb feed 4 ports , With divider between the 8 ports . Have one carb " barrels" feed two ports @ a time , with divider , Or Open plenum both carbs feeding all 8 m***age ports in away of funnel shape. Maybe use upper cut & dice , weld Or 4 to 8 motorcycle carbs Or cut intake lower in way making all 4 or 8 like wedge V shape . Its going to be experimenting There was one intake with a removable Top
There a video floating on net a B-S carb on a Ls running , The only problem from idle then under load Small carb can not keep up , If I was the one doing experiment I would of used the 45-60 hp B-S carb . But I Realy do not know why of Video Unless trying to make view $. I have ran sbc off Tape & can of Brake clean no carb
The parts selection is not specific. There's a guy a few miles from me that has the lower from an '89 GT, 5.0 for $25. The 38/38 carbs are available new from about $100. Chinese, I'm sure. I took the car to a local place for jet checking the Summit 4V and signed a waiver that had a blank for how high they had permission to turn the engine and for their protection I put 5500. I regularly turn it that high or higher. But they tested it to only 4500 and it made 240hp there. So it's not an atmosphere ****ing beast. I've read that the lower GT intake can easily support 300hp so it won't be the limiting factor here. I just really want something different. Though, the Summit 600cfm runs well.
Make a box shaped plenum to bolt on to that intake, then put anything on top of that. I have seen them with 2 2100 Ford carbs, 2 2300 Holley carbs and 3x2's with either 94's or 97's.
^^^ Flatrod is right on. You need a common plenum so all the carbs see the same signal. The lower EFI intake is individual runner and you will never be able to tune it if you feed one throat of each carb into each individual runner.
Totally unrelated but................. A friend of mine had a Toyota shop truck in the early eighties with a small block Chevy engine in it............with a pair of big Mikuni carbs.
No matter Performance or economy A Non Efi thats not direct port Its best to have One carb per runner Then One carb feeding 8 runners Unless each runner is same length If you where to put on a Dyno not for Hp readings , Dyno to Monitor each cylinder you will see AFR are not balance between the 8 no mater if Duel plain , open plain from Idle , cruise to WOT . A Tunnel Ram or the longer the runner's will give a more tight AFR across all .. Carberation with out flowing all carbs on flow bench not all flow same way with out Some needing m***aging to makeing equal flow , any one using Single or multiple carbs You should tune off the leanest cylinder @ what ever the engine Rpms are going to use @ majority of time , pick wrong cylinder you can burn a piston ... & we are not even going more in depth to different spark plug heat range in each cylinders , or some with different grind on cam lobe vs other cylinder , water temp around each spark plug , chamber , then following thew to exhaust port , there is so much to know & work threw & etc. Only a " signal" cylinder engine is easy to tune , the more yr adding extra cylinder with in Reality is another separate engine , One cylinder can drag the other cylinder down because not working the same , So 8 cylinder in Reality 8 engines. Even a H-D V twin carb in middle both cylinder are not equal front to rear .
The reality is that it's just something that I want to try. I don't mind being a little rich and I'm not worried about maximum power. The way the lower 5.0 intake is made, I would basically be treating the engine like two V4's, with four intake ports being fed by two venturi.
I under stand I do things / experiment. I Do Not have ACCESS to all the necessarily Dyno playing for information, Just tune off the leanlest cylinder So No bunt piston !
F-1 spend's average 145 million for one race team in year , imagine how much they speed in development research
I can't quite tell but that looks like a 351 Windsor intake. 302's are straight across the back, Windsor's have a bump out and are wider.
Well.... The guy said it was from his 5.0 truck. But maybe he didn't know what he had. I'll have to check.
If you have a 302 now, measure across the intake bolts and compare. Windsor's are wider. I have both here if you need measurements.
I will compare it to the Edelbrock currently this afternoon. But thank you for the offer. I appreciate it.
Many years ago, I saw a guy put a Rochester 2 barrel on a Toyota truck. It ran great. And Red Green used a toilet for a carb on a Camaro!
Rose62, I will have to box it up to get shipping. I would sell the bottom one for the same $25 and with the shipping whatever that is. The top one is a Cobra lower, it is what I am going use. I not sure what you are doing but I will throw in this box section I was going to use to make a plenum.
Deuces above says he has a Cobra intake he wants to get rid of. I would start with that, much better performance!
Found a lower in Rockmart for $40. I sold the 351 part to a guy who said that he would melt it down to make table legs!! So I intend to order the 38/38 carbs. Then I'll have to find a shop to mill some aluminum bar stock for me. Or phenolic might be better as far as heat reisistance.
Don't know which bottom you're using, nor how you will attach the carb-plate-runners, but you can use plywood. Get the exterior marine-grade, or even the green stuff(water-proof, & for awhile, fuel-resistant). If you need a thicker piece, use two thicknesses of plywood. Just be careful of the open spaces in the plywood, I'd fill those. I'd also use tubular spacers the thickness of the final "plate" as crush-tubes, so's you don't crush the plywood. For threads not going into the aluminum manifold, that have to be in the wood, use 'T'-nuts in the wood - works well. After you make it fit 'twixt the carb n manifold, mount it, test it, etc; you can use that for an aluminum pattern if you want, or get some marine-epoxy(or even fibergl*** resin, or just plain {hot}fuel-proof epoxy) to soak into the plywood, for longer life. You can do this before you run it of course - depends on how lazy you want to be. As is, it'll work well for a decent heat-soak-barrier, & if large enough, will help shield the carbs from a lot of heat. It's fairly cheap iffen you can find/use s****s, & easy to work with. If you think this is BS, yrs ago - maybe still, Summit sold plywood carb insulators as a "speed-trick" thru the catalogs. Marcus...
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