Technical Info on '40's Curtis Air Compressor

Had this one for years but never hooked it up. It's a model 95 I believe with a 5 HP Magnetek motor 230volts, 22 amps.
Looking for anyone with knowledge on what to check on this thing before I blow myself up.
Curtis no longer has any manuals or info on this model.
Maybe some of you guys are running one of these..................

Tone

 

There is probably not a lot of worry about the compressor head it's self as long as it was serviced on a regular basis through it's life. They don't do much except finally wear out or break if you take care of them.
The tank on something that age would be my worry. Has the condensation been drained regularly or daily through out it's life? I had a hell of a time with the compressors on a dairy farm I worked on as the downer could not get it in his head that the tanks had to be drained daily to keep the water out of the lines and protect the pneumatic valves, cylinders and pumps. Taking a half hour to blow the tanks and drain the condensation out would have saved him over a thousand dollars in repairs a month. It also would have saved replacing one rusted out tank and lost time due to damaged parts.
When I was teaching auto shop I had to replace the shps 80 gallon tank because it was cracked and that was found by the inspector who came around inspecting the compressors.
Sorry to get long winded but the tank is what i would check over real closely.

 

I agree and have looked into that. One guy says to fill the tank with water to the very top and then run the unit at 250+ PSI and let it sit for a couple of days - then see if it holds. I don't really know how well the tank was cared for before I bought the unit. It was is use when I got it 15 years ago but I never used it at all.
I wanted to know something about the copper line that used to connect to the very top of the unit - it's gotten broken off. Wondered what it's purpose is and how best to reconnect it. Also the pressure relief valve has broken off at the fitting, but that looks like a much simple repair.

 

OK I have the copper line and pressure valve figured out. According to one rare pic of this unit on the web, mine has been altered from the original configuration - it has an electronic pressure switch of some kind. Must have been done in 1990 since the guy dated the inside of the small electric box and left a schematic inside. Not sure how to adjust the thing yet though...............

 

Just get a new pressure switch, you buy them by the compressor on compressor off air pressure, just run a line to them to sense pressure, then run power to it to turn the motor on and off. Square D makes them.

 

Thanks, this one may actually work but I've got more work before I try to run it. I cleaned all the copper lines out - good thing since one was blocked. Removed the drain petcock and it was all blocked as well. There was some water at the very bottom on the tank and some rust but don't think its too bad. But going to water pressure test the tank to be sure. Inside the crankcase looks really good, no real metal flakes or crud. Has an updated 5HP Magnetek 230 motor that looks very good also.