I have been trying to found a few sources for rebuilding a a chevy 235. I have searched the internet extensively and can only seem to come up with inliners.org. Does anyone know another location I can get some information about my engine and part ordering?
Did you find http://www.stovebolt.com/ ? 235 isn't really a "stovebolt" (230, 292 with side panels) but it was built in the years listed. HTH
Since it's a Chevy engine, any competent auto parts store (NAPA, etc.) can order stock rebuild parts for you. Patrick's in Casa Grande, AZ and Stovebolt Engine Co. in MI can help you with speed parts, and you can't beat an old Chevrolet shop manual for rebuilding procedure.
stovebolts are 216,235,261 and the gmc cousins 302 http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_identification.htm
last one I did I just had the machine shop order parts as usual, they fit, they can return them to get the right ones without me paying shipping, and the price was right (just a bit over jobber).
also try patrick's antique trucks. 235's were used from about 54-62 in just many, many cars and trucks. you can get nearly any part at your local parts store (even AutoZone) over the counter or next day
Okay, it's been too long and complications of CRS may be setting in, so I'll stick to what I'm pretty sure I remember from the good 'ol days What I've always heard called "stovebolts" were the engines with the side valve access panels. Noted for long stroke and high torque (esp.the 292 ). Replaced by engines with more main bearings, no side panels, and shorter strokes. I may have the 230/235 confused -- but side panels and fewer mains were the distinguishing things when I was a kid and dad was driving his '59 Apache with it's first (of three) engine. He never did like the replacement engines which were the higher-revving style. I watched him drive a quarter mile in mud, dragging the front axel the whole way with that first engine, positrac and a lot of stuff in the bed.
170/230/250/292 are newer, as in post'62. The old ones are called stovebolts because they used stovebolts (round head, slotted with a square nut) to hold oil splashers in place on the babbit engines. read the advice from above, follow the links, or believe what you will. The point is, parts are available to rebuild one.
170? ford? how about 194? The Chevy straight 6s all have side covers over the pushrods....but the really early ones like the 207 and 216 had the side cover that went all the way up to the valve cover, maybe this is what Wild Turkey was thinking of?
I have bought this book: California Bills "Chevrolet, GMC & Buick SPEED MANUAL", 1954 edition, ISBN 1-931128-05-7 and it costs around 20$. See it here: http://www.californiabills.com/ http://www.californiabills.com/books/chevyspeed.php I have enjoyed it very much! BR Mikael (I have a 261cui from a 57´chevy truck in my 48 Chevy coupe! I have bought a dual Offenhauser intake and Fenton headers for it, but still need carbs, they pretty hard to find here in Denmark!)
I went to the site to get that book...when you hit the "Buy Now" tab, it redirects you to Amazon, where it's $28.95! However, the Huntington book listed for the same price is available for $14.95 on Amazon.
I've looked at rebuild kits from egge, and they told me it'd be like $1100+. Is there anyone cheaper for a complete rebuild kit, or will I just have to get all the parts seperate? I'm new to working on cars, so can someone tell me what would be needed to rebuild my 1962 chevy inline 6 that came out of an impala. I was told it would turn freely, but that it prob. needs a rebuild, also are there any other auto transmissions that will mate up to it besides the powerglide that's on it now? Thanks for any help you can give me.....also, does anyone know the horsepower/torque numbers for a 1962 235 from the impala? Greg B.
You want a procedure? Take the block to machine shop that hot-tanks. Have the crankshaft reground, Have it rebored and new cam bearings installed. With proper communication since you're paying them for the machine work, you can get them to order a overhaul kit that includes gaskets, rod/main bearings, new oil pump, new tappets, new camshaft, pistons and rings, etc, for a price you can't beat anywhere in the whole wide world elsewhere. & as another post pointed out, if for some reason they get the wrong part, it can be exhcanged for no fee. A stovebolt? Nnnnnoo it is'nt. If it really matters to the point of arguing about it, WTF? But actually, the pan-screws, valve-cover screws, etc. on 235s have a crowned flat head, not (round headed stove bolts)
does anyone here know of a good shop in the Kansas City area that can be trusted to do the job right but doesn't charge an completely unreasonable amount? The problem right now is trying to decide if I want to rebuild the flathead v8 in it now or if I want to put the 235 in it? either way it will have to be rebuilt, but the 235 has a tranny and I don't how much trouble it would be to rebuild the flathead and find a tranny that will mate up. Greg.
I'll trade you a complete, guaranteed to run good, has a fresh valve job, burns no oil, 235, for your complete running flathead with tranny, only stipulation it has to run, don't even have to run good, can smoke up a storm.....When can I deliver and pick-up?
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