Hey guys, long time to talk. I have been working up a storm getting ready for Vegas. So anyway I have this inline 6 that is having problems breathing.... Below is an article that describes the problem I am having. But I don't necessarily agree with the solution and I figure there must be another. I just put a PCV valve on it and am running some warm air into the center carb, but have not had a chance to test it out.... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as Vegas is very close.... PICS--http://www.pbase.com/socheap/23t ==========ARTICLE=From Inline 6==================== WHY YOU NEED HEAT TO YOUR INLET MANIFOLD - by Tom Langdon The most frequent complaint I have is from members who complain that since theyve installed their multiple carbs, the engine hesitates and stumbles at low speed on initial normal acceleration even after warm-up. The most blamed culprit is the darn Rochester Carburetor. Usually it is falsely accused! Usually when installing dual exhaust manifolds or headers, the production exhaust heat supply to the inlet manifold is eliminated because (except Edmunds and most recently Clifford) theres no provision or instructions to provide heat Why?? I dont know and could only guess. In any event heat will be required to achieve good driving response and reasonable fuel economy. Heres why: As liquid fuel enters the manifold from the carburetor, the vacuum vaporizes the fuel and causes a chilling effect on the walls of the manifold much like the chilling effect of spraying an aerosol on your skin. Now you have a cold manifold. If you do not supply a continuous supply of heat the manifold will remain cold and even build frost in some conditions. At this point, if acceleration is attempted, the vacuum will drop, fuel will no longer vaporize, and will condense on the cold manifold walls until they are fully saturated with wet fuel this takes about three seconds, during which time no fuel is going into the engine ( and thus no power or a "sag") After the walls are fully saturated with fuel the air flow finally picks up and floods some of the cylinders but not all of them because liquid fuel is notoriously bad for equal distribution. More fuel (bigger jets) will only slightly help this problem and actually worsens the over-rich condition and spark plug fouling and fuel economy. The solution: Moderate, and continuous heat supply to keep the walls of the inlet manifold warm and fuel in vapor form. Exhaust heat is fast but requires a ****erfly valve in one manifold to force the exhaust flow. Water heat is slower but very clean and not corrosive to aluminum manifolds. This method utilizes the water pump to continously supply warm water to a p***age underneath the manifold. It is sometimes necessary to weld a tube to the manifold but be sure to obtain intimate contact between the coolant and the manifold wall and floor. Simply tack welding a closed wall pipe to the bottom of the manifold will not result in sufficient heat transfer.
Excellent post. I was just talking to a welder today about making a stainless tube manifold for the 261. Guess I gotta add another piece to the bottom. Thanks, jay
Didn't do it to mine and I'm also in a warm climate. I use a fuel pressure reg. and had to up it a bit.
Hey, so-cheap, are you on Fordsix.com at all? You might could talk to AzCoupe; he's right there in Pheonix also. Several guys on that board have experience with tri-carb adapters for the Ford 200 & 250, where the intake is cast as part of the head. What Tom Langdon is talking about really has more to do with an aluminum aftermarket multi-carb intake like is common for Chevy sixes, or Ford 240 & 300 sixes. The Howard five-carb intake for my GMC has a tube welded along the length of it for water heat. Hope this helps. *****6.
hows the ignition timing? i know mis matching of parts can be a issue, different ford dizzys require a different vacuum signal from the carb, did you switch carb types or??
Yes. I am running 3-1 barrel holleys (only one is funtional currently). This thing is sputtering (sometimes). Another problem is that it won't start when it gets too hot. (over 195*) I think they are two seperate problems. I want to get the one dialed in and then set up the other two progressively. Any locals wanna stop by?
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