So, I understand that the '33 and '34 guts are a better design and that they fit in a '32 box. But.... What are the differences between bolt patterns, column lengths, and guts between '32, '33, '34 passenger car, truck, and BB or CC truck steering boxes? Specifically, will '33 and '34 truck bolt up to a stock '32 frame? Will '33 and '34 passenger car boxes bolt up to a '32 frame? Are '33 and '34 passenger car columns longer than '32 columns? Do you have to modify the '32 box to accept the '33-'34 guts? Are BB truck boxes the same as '32 passenger car boxes? If not, are any of the BB or CC truck box parts interchangable with the '32 passenger car box? This is new to me guys. Can anyone shed some light on these boxes?
32 BB boxes are different. The shaft is bigger in diameter for one thing so the worm gear won't interchange. They look almost identical in a flea market. I bought one thinking it was a car box. I need a straight 32 car shaft to finish an old chromed box. Anybody got an extra???? I've read that the 33-34 frame mounting flange is different but can't confirm it. I've also been told that using 35-36 worm and sector in the 32 box puts the pitman arm facing up which helps level the drag link on a dropped axle car eliminating the bump steer. I've seen this done but the parts used is hearsay.
[ QUOTE ] So, I understand that the '33 and '34 guts are a better design and that they fit in a '32 box. [/ QUOTE ] Is that true? I thought that all three years were identical for the boxes themselves. How do the "guts" differ? The 33/34 steering columns are 1 inch longer than the 32s. Which means that your steering wheel will sit a little less than 3/4" higher and further back. The mounting flange that covers the sector shaft IS different. The four bolt that mount the flange to the box are the same, but the three bolts that mount the flange to the frame are flipped. In other words, the bolts that stick through the side of the frame on a 32 form a rightside up triangle. On a 33/34 you'll see an upside down triangle. You can fix that by using a 32 flange on your 33/34 box, or by drilling three new holes in the side of your frame.
[ QUOTE ] I've also been told that using 35-36 worm and sector in the 32 box puts the pitman arm facing up which helps level the drag link on a dropped axle car eliminating the bump steer. I've seen this done but the parts used is hearsay. [/ QUOTE ] F-Head here on the HAMB did that in this car. He could probably fill us in on the details. I plan to use a 46 box on it's side to do the same thing with the pitman arm Neal
I don't have catalogs and service bulletins here, but I think this is about right. Stuff applies to passenger and commercial, NOT truck BB. 1932 is 15:1, '33 changed to 13:1, then they changed back. Mounting flange is different as DR said, whole sector housing can be interchanged to fix. Shaft length probably differs, but don't have book here and have never compared. '32 pitman has bolt-on ball stud, '33-4 ball is forged onto pitman. All pitman arms up to '48 and I think beyond fit same splines. Best improvement available is thorough tuneup of gear mesh using decent original gears. Gear fitting is well described om Marco's Ford barnyard tech site (He is fixing a '30 box, different box but works the same) followed by a careful run through the several adjustments called out in the '32 service bulletins. A good one is plenty driveable, though stiffer than modern boxes, but will feel immoveable when parking. The lost secret of steering old cars when parking is simple--you let the car creep very slightly, perhaps only an inch or two during each maneuver, and steering magically becomes vastly easier than when car is motionless. If steering is rough or too stiff to live with when car is moving, something is wrong in gears or their adjustment. Marco's steering page: http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/steering.htm Remember this is "A"--you also need '32 bulletins.
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