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Installing a mechanical fuel pump eccentric??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ctfortner, Jun 29, 2009.

  1. ctfortner
    Joined: Aug 16, 2008
    Posts: 443

    ctfortner
    Member
    from West TN

    302 engine that was built for EFI and elec. fuel pump. I bought it, converting to carb and mechanical fuel pump.

    I have bought an early 302 timing cover that has the provision for the mech. fuel pump. I realize they make a 1 and 2 piece eccentric type timing chain, and mine is the 2 piece, with the raised shoulder. I bought the 2 piece eccentric to actuate the new mechanical fuel pump. I realize I need the shorter cam dowel pin to work with the 2 piece eccentric, which I have. Here is a shot of my double roller

    P1050028 [Desktop Resolution].JPG

    The question. How exactly do I go about installing this fuel pump eccentric? What is the proper way to remove the dowel pin, install the fuel pump eccentric and new dowel pin? Do I need to worry about TDC or remove the cam? Or can this be done without removing the cam?

    The gameplan is remove long dowel, install short dowel, install eccentric with tab sharing the hole of the dowel pin, bolt er up and done....Just not sure if its that easy or not.

    This is the 2 piece eccentric I bought

    [​IMG]
     
  2. ctfortner
    Joined: Aug 16, 2008
    Posts: 443

    ctfortner
    Member
    from West TN

    must be harder than I thought :)
     
  3. RAY With
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,132

    RAY With
    Member

    You dont have to remove the cam but the pin is a little tough to remove but doable. you can also measure the amount of pin to be removed,then take the cam gear off and use an air grinder with cut off blade and remove the proper amount of pin so you can install the 2 piece pump drive.Be sure to cover the other frontal parts with rags and masking tape. I have done this many times when using late model 302 motors.
     
  4. ctfortner
    Joined: Aug 16, 2008
    Posts: 443

    ctfortner
    Member
    from West TN

    Ok, and what about lining up the cam/crank gear? Do I line it up, dot to dot, or 12 oclock 6 oclock, etc? Shouldnt they be lined up a certain way for removal and reinstall?

    I have the shorter pin needed, so if I can get the existing pin out, I will go that route. If not, I may try the cutoff method.
     
  5. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    What you're gonna find with that pin is trying to remove it will ruin it. You're gonna have to grab it with vise grips which will mar the surface.

    Cut or remove. You gotta fully commit to one method. Good luck
     
  6. ctfortner
    Joined: Aug 16, 2008
    Posts: 443

    ctfortner
    Member
    from West TN

    I am ok if it ruins the pin, i have spares, as comp cams is right down the road and "loaned" me a couple. So I have replacements, as long as the pin is the only thing damaged during the process.
     
  7. RAY With
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,132

    RAY With
    Member

    CT you line the cam gear and crank gear dot to dot-Not hard on a 302 to get it right. I also have removed the pins in car vice grips but like stated above it will mar the pin.
     
  8. ctfortner
    Joined: Aug 16, 2008
    Posts: 443

    ctfortner
    Member
    from West TN

    Ok, thanks. I will take a look and try to get er done.

    I would ***ume that once I line them up, dot to dot, and pull the cam/crank gear off, i shouldnt have to worry about the cam or crank moving until i reinstall, right? I mean I know it could, but would ***ume not just sitting there and spin itself, or can it?

    Is it a mother trying to reinstall the dist. after doing this?
     
  9. RAY With
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,132

    RAY With
    Member

    Well it could but with a socket you can turn the crank real easy and the keyway on center top would be correct location and if it did move it would be slight and easy to fix. On the distributor -your already on TDC so install the distributor with the rotor pointing to number one cyl wire on the cap. I mark the side of the distributor with a marker where #1 wire is-Makes life easy.
     
  10. ctfortner
    Joined: Aug 16, 2008
    Posts: 443

    ctfortner
    Member
    from West TN

    Well thanks for the info guys....I rotated to engine to TDC, dot to dot and pulled the chain (actually mine was dot to R2)...i was able to easily remove the dowel pin with an easy pull. this is a motor thats never been cranked, so i am sure thats why it was so easy....i installed the new shorter dowel pin, reinstalled the chain exactly as i pulled it off (dot to R2), put the eccentric on, good to go. So i think anyway, but it came apart and went back together the same, just with a new pin and eccentric. I have to go back and put some loc***e on the bolt, but other than that i think its good.

    Here is some pics...

    Before i started, its at TDC (mine was set to retarded 2)

    before.JPG

    My new 2 piece eccentric

    new eccentric.JPG

    Installed and aligned where it was when pulled

    done.jpg

    My pretty new aluminum timing cover with fuel pump provision

    aluminumtimingcover.JPG

    Actual pic of the clearance inside the timing cover with the new eccentric

    clearance.JPG

    Hope it cranks :eek:

    This whole process seemed a LOT scarier than it actually was!
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2009

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