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Technical Installing auto glass- sealer or not??

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by txcr13, Apr 24, 2016.

  1. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    Before long it will be time to put the glass in my '46 Stude coupe. When I removed the stationary glass in it, there was no evidence of sealer being used, either gasket to glass or gasket to body. I have seen conflicting opinions about whether to use sealer or not when replacing/re-installing the glass.

    What is he most common practice...use sealer or not?

    If sealer(s) is used I would appreciate product names that have worked well, and any installation tips or references.
    Thanks or your help.
     
  2. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,233

    F&J
    Member

    I can't help with 46 Stude, but my 1960 chevy truck factory service manual actually shows the exact spots where you are supposed to add caulk, if the W/S is replaced.

    It was where spotwelded overlap seams left small gaps. Back then it was a non-hardening product like Mortite. (light grey strip caulk)
     
  3. I used it when replacing the windshield in the wagon. HRP
     
  4. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,390

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think you should seal it too. I'm going to seal my rear windows in the 39 sedan. A little at the glass and the pinch. I'd hate to be at a coin op wash and see water getting on my headliner.
     
  5. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,226

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    When I was in the trade and replacing screens or similar fixed glass, I would always apply a thin bead of sealer all the way around on the back of the rubber to ensure that no water whatsoever was able to creep into the gap between the rubber and body. This water had a tendency to pond, later leading to rust. A little messy however it worked with only some minor cleaning up. Alternatively you can install the glass and then try to insert a bead of sealer under the edge of the rubber, a little more work and not as effective IMHO.
     
  6. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 32,272

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    no, do not need to use sealer if stock body & stock replacement gasket.. but, can not hurt to run a thin bead - will add extra mess to install.
     
  7. texasred
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,219

    texasred
    Member
    from Houston

    Tremco Vulkem 116 white or gray, black is hard to clean off of your hands ...you should be able to buy it from any glass shop or glaziers supply..Try the Binswanger store in Humble.. Damn near every high rise building glazied in Houston is sealed with this.. Says flexible forever..
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
    tfeverfred likes this.
  8. jeffyg82
    Joined: Dec 23, 2013
    Posts: 108

    jeffyg82

    I always Use bedding compound on punch weld if it's a rope in windshield... side Glass that goes into a frame has a rubber or cork oil tape that holds it tight
     
  9. jeffyg82
    Joined: Dec 23, 2013
    Posts: 108

    jeffyg82

    Oops pinch weld
     
  10. The guy who did my windshield at my house last year used a butyl product that always stays pliable. Hard to say what was used at the factory, my old gasket was mummified with age and exposure.
     
  11. FortMoe
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 40

    FortMoe
    Member

    3m Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound is whats is needed for the rubber gasket windows. Don't use the urethane windshield sealant, it's for glue in windshields. The urethane will not stick well to the rubber gasket but the bedding compound will stay flexible.
     
    stimpy likes this.
  12. rd martin
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 2,463

    rd martin
    Member
    from indiana

    if ya dont use sealer ya wont be happy when it rains!
     
  13. 5brown1
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 240

    5brown1
    Member

    I wish I had used the 3M Bedding on the 37 to the right of this comment. It will be a few $ you will regret not spending. One of these days that glass will be coming out and being reset with sealer. You can avoid that project.
     
  14. txcr13
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 242

    txcr13
    Member

    Thanks, gents, for all the replies.
    I have decided to use a thin bead of sealer with the gaskets. I know they are supposed to work without sealer, but I am going to opt for safe rather than sorry.
    In particular, my windshield is two piece, with a center bar designed to squeeze the separate center gasket against the ends of the glass, and top and bottom of the one piece windshield gasket. Not sure those seals will work like it is supposed to without a little sealer carefully added. The condition of my center bar was real bad and had to be replaced.
    Tks again.
     
  15. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,546

    stimpy

    I know my old 50 pontiac manual says to use a sealer between the gasket and metal and also the glass and its 3m specified material , I say call 3m and see what they have to say .. as for vulkem 116 thats some sticky stuff , it will stick to brick and vinyl siding ( what we use it for )
     

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