I was wondering if anybody can tell me "the easy way" to install a Buick straight 8. The car is a 51 special that had and is getting a 263 with manual trans. The quick background on this transplant is that I pulled the old engine with the trans attached. Now the time has come to put the new donor engine and trans back in. My question for all those who have done this before is........is it easier to install the trans separate from the engine? Or all together? I really want to avoid dealing with the torque tube and disconnecting the rear end and moving it back. Any advice on how to gracefully do this would be VERY appreciated.
It is easier to install it with the trans attached.It is much easier in any case if you have a spare set of hands available.
Did this on a 52 a few years back. Defiantly trans should be attached to motor. We had the radiator and grill out already and it made the drop in more of a slide in. We didn't want to drop the rear end for that same reason, and once motor was in the engine bay we were able to finagle at all together. For us, lots of beer and swearing but it worked. And I recall pulling the metal motor mounts to the frame to clear some space. Of course it's easier to remove the rear and slide it on a jack but it always seems like just more work. But it is possible! Good luck! [emoji481]
Creep Johnny....you say you pulled the motor mounts? I too have the radiator, grille and core support out. Not real keen on sitting under or having my hands under an almost 800 pound monster any longer than I have to but like the idea of the straight on slide into the engine bay without the motor mounts. I was actually considering trying it so hearing that you had success with it leans me this direction. On the way out it still had to rise a bit more than I expected due to the bell housing. I just see the rear end being a pain and a real potential for extra work with brake lines, cables, springs, etc... Do you recall any trouble with space or clearance to reinstall the mounts once the engine was in place? Figured I need a extra hands like Steinauge suggested.......put a text out to my buddies "beer drinkers wanted, some heavy lifting required". Got them coming over this coming weekend and they all definitely know how to swear! I appreciate the suggestions and welcome anymore advice anybody has to make this go smooth. Thanks guys!
It's in! PITA! Lot's of finesse. Now I understand why so many delete the torque tube! Did it with the motor mounts out and guide pins for the torque tube. Needed a jack under the trans and my hands in places I feared would cause me to lose a digit or two if something slipped but happily I have all ten fingers and everything lined up with some finagaling.
Looks good. Congratulations. Hope you put a new gasket between the bellhousing and*******. I found out the hard way .. The input shaft bearing Will leak. That selector trans front bearing setup was unique to small b.o.p cars. Nothing like later cars. Sent from my SM-G920P using H.A.M.B. mobile app
ummm.....not so fast. The larger engines in BOP that used the 6 bolt top cover also used an 'exposed' front bearing and required a gasket. This was true thru the late '50s/early '60s. Ray
yep...gasket between the bell housing and trans.......didn't think it really needed it but it had one previously and I ordered one in anticipation. Everywhere it had a gasket previously it got a replacement. No sense in rethinking what has been working for this many years. Fired it up today. Took awhile longer as I had the distributor in 180 off despite my best efforts to not make this mistake again. Seem to be having a temperature problem though. Acts as thought the thermostat is not opening. New thermostat. I've let it go to 190* without it seeming to open and it is a 180* thermostat. Pulled it and stuck it in boiling water and it opens at 180*. Also had it in correctly aka not upside down. I have plumbed the engine so that I have the ability to fill it and flush it easily. Seems to have free flowing water without any blockages at all locations where I have a valve. Could I have a blocked water jacket/gallery even if water flows thru the small opening just left of the distributor? Didn't have this problem when it was on the stand. Then again it wasn't 80 degrees outside either. I had a similar problem on my other 263 and I hit it with a pressure washer thru the opening just left of the distributor with the radiator cap off. That time was different though as I did not have water flowing from the opening. Doing so dislodged a blockage of sediment inside and solved the problem both from a blockage/flowing issue and temp. Maybe will try again unless anybody has a better approach? The manual says the temp is okay but seems to me that I was able to keep cooler with my other 263. Was running coolant though. Only running water at this point on the new engine.
The engine had just under 38,000 on it. I pulled the pan and plasti-gauged the mains and rods. Everything was still within upper end of specs. The goal was to keep the car usable while I rebuild/hotrod the original 263 that was in it. Time and money . A nice guy named Gary out of South Bend Ind sold it to me. I got it running on the stand and ran ATF in it to clean it out. I checked its vitals and then decided it was healthy enough to run on until I get the other one rebuilt if ever. I did a compression test too. I did a new rear main seal (rope style) PITA, front seal, basically gaskets all around. Nothing to the head, intake, or exhaust manifolds though. I had rebuilt my carb, fuel pump, and distributor along with purchasing a new water pump and coil for the other 263. These parts made their way onto this engine. I also did one of those new style clutches. Flushed the engine and******* and cleaned as much as I could inside and out. Did gaskets, seals, bushing, along the drive train, cleaned the torque ball/retainers, and did shim kit. Paint was the easy part. Cleaning it,****embling it, and getting it out and in with trans and aligning with torque tube priceless . I am having fun though. Here are pics (and I have lots more) of various stages including the interior I sewed myself and old 263 when I got it and just before I pulled it. Its come a long way since I got her about 4 years ago. Probably will never be done. Next winter I would like to replace the rockers and lower end of the quarters/wheels wells. Not looking to make it perfect as I like that I do not have to worry about scratching the paint!.
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