I put the engine and trans in my 56 yesterday, 302/5 speed. The stock Mustang headers won't clear the motor mount on the cross member or the stock steering box so I ordered the hedman headers #88400 from Streetside. They were $171.99 with free shipping. They had a $10 off coupon that expired yesterday so I spoke with a customer care rep (Mike) and he gave me a new code for $10 off. So, $161.99 delivered to my door, great customer service. I'm using motor mounts from a 65 Ranchero with a 260 and 3/4 inch spacers to raise the motor. I'm not sure if the headers will clear everything with these mounts. If not, I see some of you use other motor mounts like from an 84 or so Lincoln Mark VII. Which mounts have you all used so everything clears? Thanks, Ken
Fox body Mustang (87-93) 5.0l mounts don't need any more then 1 washer for shimming. 3/4" is huge IMO. You can have a look through my photobucket pics here.
I have a 351W that I bought Headman Headers for and they work great for clearance but I do have to hammer one in a little to make sure they don't come close to the steering box. Nothing too much, just a millimeter or two and then perfection. I'm not sure what mounts are in mine.
Apparently I was wrong, when I actually tried to bolt the headers on the area where the four pipes come together actually hits the toe board causing a problem with putting in the last bolt too. I'm think about hammering the toe board to make the clearance but I really don't want to do that. I wold rather bent the header pipes if thats possible. Does anyone have advice on what I should do here?
Thanks for the replies. After I get the headers I will see where everything sets. Jeff, I looked at the motor mounts you list and the mounting bolts are offset (one is closer to the front of the car than the other). It looks like this would angle the motor & trans slightly diagonally in the car. I will have to measure the mounting area on the cross member to see if they are offset too. I noticed that some of you slotted the mounting holes, did you have to do this or did it just make it easier to install the motor? Thanks again for the help.
It seems not all 50's Fords are exact in the frame mounts (no computers back then) so in some cases it may be best to slot them so you can align if needed,my '54 did not need it slotted.If you are using an AOD or C4 this works well, install the engine and trans as a unit, loosely bolt the trans mount in place then lower the engine into place.If it aligns with the holes you are good to go,if not you can mark where you need to elongate if necessary.Your 5 speed is an unknown in regards to the transmission crossmember whereas the AOD & C4 will use the factory 54-56 crossmember without alteration.
Thanks Jeff, I'll have to see what I have when I get the headers. As for the 5 speed, I just need to stir some gears again, it's been too long.
54 hotrod what mounts did you use and do you have the spacer in there everyone is talking about? I am guessing the reason you are having issues and I didn't is because the deck height on a 351 is slightly taller then a 302. My headers just clear the toe board but I could see where you have issues. Can you lower the motor any?
The 351W is what 54HotRod has (post from 7/1), the 351W is wider than a 302 by about 1 3/4'' which makes for the clearance problem He is having by the steering box.
i used the anchor mounts that jeff listed in my 55 fairlane. i had to elongate the holes in the frame mount a little but it fit nice. for steering box clearance i used a 1980 ford F150 exhaust manifold. i have an AOD ****** so i used an 84 crown vic mount. i also elongated the holes in the ****** crossmember.
Jeff the deck height is taller that is why he is having problems with the toe board. If it was a width issue he would be hitting the steering box.
the height issue is probably why i had so much trouble with my 351w. more so the height of the transmission. it took a lot of patience but everything squeezed in there and i have about a 2" gap between engine and firewall. i can see where the header would hit the toe board..that's why i opted for the 1980 f150 manifold..fits nice with lots of clearance.
Fordsbyjay- You are right the height is the whats causing the header flange to hit the toe board. The way the header pipes are arranged with the bends, there is no problem with the clearance around the steering box. I can't get to the car again until Saturday but I will take pictures of the engine placement and mounts. Also, a few pictures of how the header looks when its placed on the head.
351W deck height is .9 inch higher than 302. A 2 sump oil pan from '80s Fords , Mercs and Lincolns may help to lower the engine, or, m***age the firewall.
Well last time I was under my 56 I thought there was plenty of clearance to lower the motor. If you have the ability to cut the factory mounts off and lower then they you could make lots of header room.
We know from past experience that when installing a 302 in a 54-56 that if you used the F-150 mounts (ANCHOR 2329) that spacers were required to raise the block and the 2725 & 2726 mounts were taller,so no spacers.Now knowing a 351W has a taller deck height would the 2329 mount be the key? they run $7.99 each at O'Reillys about 1/3 the cost of the 2725 & 2726.
Jeff i can speak from experience that yes they will work great if not better than the 2725 and 2726 part#.. some minor shimming might need to be done to get perfectly level and i'm talking like 1/4" if that..personally i still used the 2725 and 2726 to get me more height for steering box clearance issues. which brings me to this.. Those of you doing the Jeep power steering conversion with 351w's you WILL HAVE to use either a custom set of headers or the hedman 351 headers with modifications to the firewall. those of you with 302's you'll be okay..
Well, I am using the 351W and probably an electronic 4R70W trans. I've also found out that my 351 is NOT a roller cammed engine so I will be taking that in a different direction on the re-build. That being said, I will probably be using the cast iron manifolds instead of headers. I'm going to try and fit the engine/trans combo in the frame soon. Without the body on the frame I may run into trouble later so I want to keep the modifications to a minimum. I hope this works out for me. Anyone have any suggestions?
Well, I got the headers, they fit perfectly. Got the motor mounts and they don't. The steering cylinder hits the bell housing and I only get about 25º of turning in each direction. I vertically slotted the mounts on the frame and now I will have to do some horizontal slots to clear the steering. Hopefully I will get some time next week to work on it.
Jeff, here are some pictures of the install. Chrome valve covers will go, I have a set of finned aluminum covers waiting. P***enger side headers, lots of clearance. Drivers side header, lots of clearance here too. Both mounts slotted for fit. I'm going to have to do a horizontal slot to bring the engine forward a little. Oil pan is setting a little too close to the cross member, sliding everything forward a little will help. Lots of room between the trans and cross member. I think the s****es on the bell housing is where the steering hit, my neighbor was under the car when this hit, I didn't see it. We swapped sides on the motor mounts to clear the steering and now everything sets too far to the rear so we'll do the slotting.
Great pictures Stig. I wish my clearance was as smooth looking as yours. Everyone thanks for the advice and multiple options. I am looking into all options and hopefully one will work without too much complication.
54HotRod, I just bought a new DeWalt orbital jig saw, cut through the mount like ****er and cleaned up with a grinder. Made a new spacer for the motor mounts, I'm going with the ones for a 65 Ranchero. The Mercury mounts just wouldn't line up. I should get a chance to try the new spacer this week. I'll post pictures when I'm done.
OK, the engine and trans are in. The motor mounts I used are for a 64 Falcon/260. I used 2 #2221 mounts, the other side wouldn't bolt to the block. Ford mount↓↓ These are shorter that the Merc mounts that Jeff suggested, but the Merc mounts set the engine too far back and when I switched sides with them (left to right), the engine was too far forward. Merc mount↓↓ I had to use spacers on the mounts. On the drivers side, I used this. It's 3/4x3x8. It raised the engine 3/4 inch and moved the engine 1½ inches to the right(p***engers side). On the p***enger side I used a 3/4" spacer. Now everything fits great. Driver's side P***enger's side, not as much room but good enough. The pan, bell housing and steering all have plenty of clearance. I made a trans support and used the mount from a 60-64 Galaxy. Got the drive shaft made and installed, $190. No pics of it. Now I have to install all the junk on the engine (alternator, power steering, pulleys, carb, dist). I'm also working on front tires. Still hoping for TA's but thinking I will have to go with something else. I'm hoping to have it on the road in the next couple of weeks.
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