Technical INSTANT HEAT, just dont add water (TECH WEEK)

Are you going to make the whole car have a "old school " look?....if so we need pictures!

 

I never said it was a great idea, just the best I had to work with for this years tech week. I think it will work for what I need it for, defrosting the glass and giving a bit o heat on cold nights. Love the creds, don't mind the doubt'n.

 

Just really watch your wiring on this, 40 amp draw is a LOT and the wiring could go up in smoke if not done right.

 

Reminds me of the days running the Timber Jack log skidder. In the summer time sweat was rolling off you because of the engine heat that was blowing back on you, but do you think you could feel it on a cold rainy day? not one bit of heat in the winter unless of course you put your wet gloves on the exhaust pipe.

 

I have one of the aircraft style manifold heaters in my O/T air-cooled trike. The engine is at the front so there is a natural airflow that means I get all the heat I need, even in winter.

Before I fitted the aircraft unit, I used a large flat candle in a coffee can, punched with holes and hung from the dashboard. I found that worked better than an electric heater I tried. I got the coffee can idea from a 30's motoring magazine. Didn't make a huge amount of heat but was good for handwarming and did help clear the windscreen.

 

...what does that heater cost?

 

Mine from Hones Charley, plumbing exits out of rt. side,

 

Although the electric element (no pun intended) of your idea is questioned by some, the work and execution is very nicely done! Thanks.

 

Thanks Crminal, I know it "sparked" some controversy and I was "shocked" by some of the comments, even though I have been know to have a "short" "fuse", over all they didn't get me too "amped" up. (pun intended).

 

I like it.......should do just what you want...

 

Prewar fat fendered Fomoco cars could be ordered with hot water, exhaust or gas (SouthWind) heaters. Bought an exhaust heater from a HAMBer for a Lincoln Zephyr that bolts to the exhaust manifold and uses "flow through" ventilation and a fan motor to duct the exhaust heated air into the cabin.

 

Lucas, I looked at that option too but I liked the idea of not having any more holes in the body as possible. I hope it is functional. I don't live in Alaska, probably wont drive the car there. Cold sucks.

 

I haven't met you, but, I like your sense of humor already. Those were terrible puns! Good job!

 

rubber, don't mind if I call you rubber since we are practically kinfolk (geographically speaking), thank you for the shout out and keep Portland "wired" (oh no I didn't).

 

wonder how they heat a truly non traditional Tesla?

 

"Smug" pump?

 

Up here, we need a "defogger" (yes, really, in a fucking roadster with no top or side windowsclueless morons) to pass the safety inspection, this could really be useful for that. After you get past the safety Nazis, you can just take it out and put it on the shelf, even move it from car to car to get your tags.

 

i think this, combined with electric seat heat pads WILL extend the cruising season. sometimes it is not how low the temperature is, it is how much of a drop in temperature. a 45 degree evening after a 75 degree day, wearing shorts feels cold.......i'll take that heater, the heated seats and a warm passenger.

 

That works on a whole lot of levels.A great go-to for future builds using basic K.I.S.S. method,the way I like things.

 

falcongeorge, thank for reminding me to be thankful I live where I do. Those are tough requirements. Glad the idea helps.

And yes, I am adding the seat heaters as well.

 

That passenger would not be the one riding on handlebars in Hershey would it?

 

oh man, you just had to bring up that redhead didn't you?

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/vote-now-tech-week-october-2015.995188/

Short time to vote

 

So, I am still playing with my heater that I started for tech week last year. I made the install system and welded it to the firewall but needed a place to put the controls and I'm running out of real estate. So I disassembled the original controls that came with the heater. Had to cut off the top bracket that you see under my fat thumb.

Then I cut the lid of the heater housing (which is vacant behind because of the small size of the heater) and frenched in the controls so they are almost parallel and flush. I tired to line up the art deco ribs in the cover and the panel but missed slightly. Then ran the panel across the buffer real quick to get the effect. Here it is in primer.

and with the control panel installed.

I have saved the knobs and vent door handles and will restore and use them. This will make the heater a true plug and play unit. It is held by three bolts to the firewall bracket (see below) that was welded in place so no bolts protrude through my firewall and no hoses either. The entire unit has only 2 wires, red and black which will run through a relay. Plus the defroster duct hoses so it comes out easy and fast if need be.

Here it was installed until I took it out and cut it apart last night (slow night at the garage).

Ill paint it up and install the stainless belly band, should look cool (hot?). By the way, I took the heater to the golf course on a balmy 40 degree day and tapped the 12 volt golf cart for power to see it could provide warmth. The cart had curtains and it definitely put out heat. Not going to say I was warm and toasty but it was a hell of lot better than the other frozen assholes that were trying to sit in my cart between shots. I have a propane cart heater too, this actually worked a lot better probably because of the heat distribution by the fan as opposed the radiant heat. And yes, that is a ZZ top key chain. Hung in every rod I ever built at one point or another.

Fun times waiting for parts to show up. Hope that wasn't too boring or waste of time. I sure had fun doing it.

 

update 2018, done and installed

 

Truly elegant, B.B.! At first glance, I was reminded of the '32 Packard dash in my old '29 Highboy, with dual "jockey boxes". Then I relented, and went back to read in detail the '100-yd.-dash-board'.
Some out-of-sight trickery here, the reshaping of the lid and its mate did wonders.
Good thing this is a 'drophead' (roadster) as it might be overlooked in a coupe or sedan!

 

Thanks Mike! I think it was @alchemy that suggested that mirror image rise on the left side of the dash a couple years ago in the 100 Yd dash thread.

My car is not be the most HAMB friendly build but it would not be turning out nearly as well if I did not have access to some of you guys on here for the last 4 years. I take advice like a hacker takes identity.

 

That came out great BB. Question, does the alternator (or generator) have any issue keeping up with the 40 amp load?

 

I will tell you after the weekend. I have never operated it in the roadster. I have ran it off my Nova which is a low amp alt. It worked but I didn't run it for long. The roadster's powergen is 100 amp, I did a lot of research prior to building it and I think it will be fine. The unit will not be used a lot, basically to defrost the windshield or take the chill off. As long as it is not sitting, idling with the heater running, lights on, etc. it shouldn't be an issue.

I did run an isolated 6 gauge cable that supplies power straight from the battery through a 100 amp breaker and a 40 amp fuse. I didn't take it through the fuse panel at Coach Controls suggestion. They use these things in golf carts and boats, it will be fine. And it does have 2 fan speeds that activate 4 different ceramic elements. On low, only 2 of the elements heat rather than all 4. So if you do notice a draw on high, switch it to low for close to half the power consumption.