Does anyone have any cheap ideas for interior insulation? That alum sided sheet stock is expensive. I also understand it holds water which promotes rust. Can I use that alum sided bubble wrap from home depot and if so what cement will not melt it?
I used that buble stuff before. It works great except for the footwell area, the bubbles eventually pop! Oh yeah, I tape all the seams with foil backed HVAC tape. Seals it up nicely.
Ask around if anyone is a "ROOFER" they use a foil backed product that works the same, always have large s****s.......OLDBEET
I've also used the foil backed bubbles. It holds well with the 3M spray adhesive (expensive type). In areas like at the dash and surfaces that are horizontal. Also spot it in areas with the 3M weather adhesive.
I used the stuff with the aluminum and bubble wrap on my truck. The stuff on the floor does pop the bubbles after a time, although I think it likely that it would be less a problem if you have it under carpet (mine isn't yet... only been in there about four years...or six). At any rate, it is inexpensive and effective. Dramatically improves the temperature and noise in the ****pit, and the stereo sounds better, too. Used speed (duct) tape to connect seams, and liquid nail to secure it to the body.
If the expensive stuff you were referring to is Dynamat, I have a cheaper alternative. It's called FatMat. It's the exact same thing. I used it throughout the wayfarer and everyone I know is amazed at how well it works. With a big block right on the firewall, we knew we'd have temp problems, but you can touch the firewall on the inside after driving for hours and it's barely warm to the touch. The stuff's not cheap, but it's much cheaper than dynamat and works just as well. Everyone I know who's building a car now is going to use it. It's $100 for a 100 sq. ft. roll, but that was enough to do my roof, floor and firewall and I even did the firewall and the floor from the firewall to the front seat with two layers.
There are several things that work VERY well: therma-shield paint (inside cab, specially the roof), sprayfoam (again, inside cab behind upholstery), and undercoating or bedliner, under car and fenders, hood. All these cut down on heat transfer and NOISE, they also seal well and are durable
You could use chiller insulation like the commercial ac guys use. It probably comes in different thickness's too.
The stuff I use it a heating/cooling duct insulation from Home Depot. It's heavy aluminum sheet with a thin foam on one side with adhesive already on it. Good stuff, comes in rolls. r
[ QUOTE ] The stuff's not cheap, but it's much cheaper than dynamat and works just as well... It's $100 for a 100 sq. ft. roll, [/ QUOTE ] I looked at the website, the roll is $99.99 but they want another $24.99 to ship it...
You can get the foil/bubble pack at hardware stores every where by the foot cheaper than the rod parts places. it can be installed with "liquid nails" effectively-some sprays will let go when heated- not good at all. also remember- the foill on both sides is actually metal and will short circuit any wires if contacted. I like to use 3/4"blue board where I can fit it- it can be cut in strips narrow enough to bend easily and same calk gun applied liquid nails holds it fine.this is how home builders apply it to a wall. it is cheap and easy to cut and is great for sound and heat barrier.8 dollars a sheet 4'x8' long.Tar paper as suggested is also a great choice- multiple layers are chep too-[they used to be used as original equiptment under a juts padding as a floor and firewall insulation.
I'm ***uming you guys are taling about situations where the stuff WILL get wet....but I've just used the felt that goes under carpet. Kinda like horse-hair type stuff (hell, I don't know what it's called!!) and it's like three-quarter inch thick. Works a treat in my muzzy and every other car I've stuck it in.
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