Any suggestions how to keep this bolt from leaking spent oil? This happens after the engine warms up..leaves a little puddle in the crevice. Wiping it up every time we go for a spin. I have torqued it down all she will go, and there is a lock washer under the bolt.
RTV black silicone is what I use on them all. Stops the wicking, prevents the ticking, bolts still come out without sticking. .
I had this issue with my newly bought '89 IROC. 3 trips back to the dealer...once for oil, once for antifreeze, 3rd time for both. Said **** it after it leaked again. Pulled the intake, sprayed brakekleen though all the intake holes on the heads. Waited a few hours. Used liquid teflon stuff on the bolts. Changed the oil. This was around '91-'92, my kid now drives the car with near 200K on it, still sealed up and dry.
That's not a lock washer. That is a bolt loosener. Split lock washers are worse than a plain washer, or no washer, at-all. Says who? NASA.
That looks like a triple two barrel intake. If you have Stombergs up top, you are WAY over pressure. You need a fuel pressure regulator. I run those at 2-1/2psi.
There is a sealant called "stag" that was developed by rolls royce that I use as a thread sealer and on core plugs. Its worked every time i have used it but it is hard stuff to get hold of. Sent from my SM-A105G using Tapatalk
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/pipe-sealants/pipe-sealants/wellseal-jointing-compound/f/7987 Sent from my SM-A105G using Tapatalk
Cat used to market a RED liquid thread sealer ( like Hylomar) that worked well for many things , John Deere had a green( go figure) Teflon type paste that worked well , good ol' permatex #2 form- a- gasket works on a number of things ,none of them is fuel ( gasoline) proof , some are gas resistant but break down with time .gasoline ,like brake lines , should be a mechanical , no sealant/ dope / tape , seal. The problem lies with the quality of today's poor quality fittings , it necessitates the use of something , unfortunately !
"The problem lies with the quality of today's poor quality fittings , it necessitates the use of something , unfortunately" You can still get Weatherhead / Eaton fittings and they are reasonably priced. But most supply companies prefer to carry the slightly cheaper generic ones. But then again, I haven't had problems with the generic fittings anyway. I'm not talking about the horrible cast br*** pipe bushings and fittings, which truly are abominable as they often will screw in to the shoulder before proper thread engagement.
I have seen where fuel will drip and puddle in an intake crevice and overtime it will look and feel like varnishy - oil. I run lower fuel pressure on my tri-power - I want to say 3.5 pounds I set it so many years ago can’t remember now and I can’t see it when I am driving.