I installed some insulation, the lightweight foam type from Menad's, in my '39 Ford tudor. It all came down. I used 3m #77. I think where I went wrong was not spraying both the insulation & the roof. I just re-did it, spraying both the insulation & the roof, waiting until both surfaces did not transfer any adhesive to my fingers. It had a different feel about it this time. It really stuck well & didn't want to move, Hopefully I did it right this time and all is okay. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Rod
Good luck. After 3 summers, the same insulation with the same glue came down from the roof in my coupe and it was put in right. The reapplication was done with a different glue, and it didn't last much more then a year. I think I will try the more expensive 3M spray glue with new insulation and see how that works. I'm building a truck right now, I would really like to find something that works long term, but everything I've seen reviews on has some kind of drawback. I wouldn't mind spending a little more money if it was something I knew would work for more then a few years. Gene
3M makes an adhesive like 77 but for higher temp like headliners get. I don't know the number but do a search and you will find it. 3M 77 I believe says in the directions to spray both parts being glued. It always helps to read and follow the instructions on whatever product you are using.
Yes, you must do both surfaces, just like working with contact cement on other projects. But... these glues are not what they used to be, as I had a lot of problems with bonding vinyl to door panels made of fiberboard and also vinyl-to-primed/painted metal. On the door panels, one you get it glued, it must be then installed tightly to the door, or the back glued lap seam would lift up, right off the panel, if it sat off the car for a week. Seemed to be ok with cloth, compared to vinyl. .
One of the problems is the glue is only as strong as the weakest layer, so if it failed the first time the old glue needs to all be removed before the new is applied, just like trying to paint over old flakey paint. Not an easy task.
Use weldwood. Either from an upholsterer or the counter top adhesive. I glued my dad`s tuck`n`roll vinyl headliner up in his Vicky 25+ years ago.
^^ What Stanlow said. I have used weldwood spray grade for over 40 years and it has never given up. And trying to reglue over any failure with spray can glue will not work. Weldwood hhr glue
3M 90 is High Strength. 77 doesn't hold anything! You must spray both items, let them tack-up, then attach.
Sporty,About cleaning glue guns,I used a 7gallon glue pot a lot when building trade show exhibits. Our pot gun would generally get a good exterior wash down with laquer thinner , I'd run about a quart through just the gun, and finally flush the line from the pot to the gun. We used a lot of laminate, vinyl and fabric with contact cement. I don't recall ever chucking the gun !
Well I use a cheap gun now , but used a 21/2 gal pot in my shop for 20 plus years. I have cleaned the quart gun a few times in 5 years ,just hangs on the wall with glue the rest of the time. At the shop we hardly ever cleaned the pot , but we used about 5 - 10 gal a week.
Make certain to use the FLAMMABLE Weldwood adhesive. The other stuff (non-flammable) is okay for many things, but the flammable (their counter top adhesive, as stanlow suggested) stuff is the bomb ...
Hi guys, & thanks for all the god input. I seem to have several options but the weldwood option seems very viable. Thanks again for all the ideas, Rod.
Must be a big shop. It takes me about a month to go threw 5 gallon. I never clean my gun. It usually falls off the table and breaks when it is has a low level amount of glue in it when hooked up to an airline before needing cleaned.
At one time we had 5 trimmers at a time and kept them all busy. Was in Modesto Ca. I sold out in 1992 and the name stayed till 2014? And yes I have dropped a couple off the tables , now I hang it over a garbage can
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