Introducing my Fuel Coupe-styled Tudor

If you don’t mind me asking where did you get those seat risers and flip kit I could use a set of them probly have to modify them like you did but sure is a good starting point

 

Very cool Gary. Another great idea perfectly executed.

 

Thanks, guys.

Moore Parts:

Seat Mounts, Driver Side Slide /
Passenger Side Tilt, 5-3/4" Height. 2 Seats × 1 | $219.95
https://mooreparts.com/products/sea...lide-passenger-side-tilt-5-3-4-height-2-seats

 

Thanks for the info

 

Sorry, Eddy, I overlooked your comment. Was that Johnny Rocca, the '49 Merc Pro Mod driver from Leesburg?
I got to meet him one Saturday at @oj 's shop. He was larger than life!

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sad-day-johnny-rocca-has-left-the-shop.1173855/

Obit:
John “Johnny” Rocca (1941 – 2019) Associate Tribal Member / Bear Clan – Meherrin Indian Nation (meherrinnation.org)

Meanwhile, some progress while my wiring harness is in transit.



I might add washers under the grade 8 bolt heads to spread the load. Thoughts?

 

Your throttle pedal is badass!!!

 

^^^
Seat belts Anchors ,
How about 2 inch wide flat bar from bolt to bolt under neath floor 3/16 ,
Maybe Not , I think I would go ahead & do ,,
Even if you donot plain on running hard like I do ,

Yes ,

 

Nice bracket, I'd turn the hose clamp 180 degrees for knee and pants leg protection.

 

Black shrink tube will take away the sharp edges and make it disappear somewhat.

 

If you're referring to putting washers between the bolt head and the metal end of the seat belt, you certainly can for sure. However those washers are going to be thinner than the seat belt end and probably don't add a lot. As long as the bolt is relatively matched in size to the hole, it's probably not necessary.

The car is coming right along!

 

Thanks for the constructive comments, Fellas. I expect I'll be making some corrections ("continuous improvements") as I go.

 

If hose clamps are all there is to ''worry'' about, you're living right! Love the bracket.

I'm a fan of this style, they have a clean look.

 

^^^^^^^^^
First Time I meet Jonny was @ Carol Carter shop in Manassas ,late 80s , shortly after I way getting hand me downs ,My Father & I @ Goose Creek on the Mountain , Last time I seen the SWC Willys It was @ Dons in Fla on display & should still reside There ,

 

Speedo cable and gears using TCI's calculator.



TCI Auto Speedometer Gear Calculator - TCI® Auto

TCI Auto Speedometer Gear Calculator - TCI® Auto
Use this TCI Auto Speedometer Gear Calculator Formula for any GM, Ford or Chrysler vehicle. This is very useful ...



As a wiring virgin, it seemed prudent to pay for a few extra unused wires, instead of kludging together patchwork circuits.

Following Jason's advice, I got Rebel Wire's 16 circuit universal harness.

I minimized under-dash yoga contortions by first organizing bundles on the garage floor with bread bag ties.


Then hanging the panel under the dash.


Thanks to @squirrel & others for educating me on Mopar starter relays.

 

Been following this one since you started. A really cool little hot rod and the orange a perfect choice! Nice job Gary.

 

Gary , I was thinking if you where off to a exotic Place Hawaii, Fiji ,Caribbean,
I guess Not , Just Exotic Fairfax,

Im not a Mopar ,
So does the Mopar starter relay Still Required /Needed in a Non OEM Circuit ?

 

Dang.... I used to pass C&C Automotive on #28 in Manassas while shuttling kids to soccer matches.
I knew they built all-aluminum 460+ inch Fords and should've stopped in, if only to leave a drool puddle.
https://dragillustrated.com/carroll-carters-cc-motorsports-celebrates-50-years-in-business/

Yes- some kind of relay is needed. I've learned Mopar's separate relay isn't subject to the heat soak/no-start issues like the integral Chevy design that I'm used to.

Now time to go connect wires.

 

BLUF: The wiring kicked my butt. I couldn't have finished it without @squirrel 's @Dino 64 's and @oj 's help. Thanks, guys.

Master disconnect in batt (+) cable, per NHRA guidance.


A PS-64 oil pressure switch and backup toggle switch keep the electric fuel pump safe.


This Carter P4070 pump only draws ~5 amps, so no relay.


Engine:


Chassis:

 

Very nice.

 

Congratulations on the wiring, something I'll be avoiding.

 

Neat and tidy Almost ready for a shake down cruise

 

Gary , How close are you to getting rubber build up on the shiny Hugger inner Quarters

 

@Just Gary Thanks for the inspirational pictures!

 

Beautiful job Gary. And , yea, I hate doing wiring. It always kicks my ass and gets me very frustrated.

 

Man, this thing is SO close. Keep rolling, you are on the downhill slide.

Nice work as always.

-Abone.

 

Soon; should prolly attach the doors first.

BTW, the blue painter's tape labels remain until I'm confident everything works while driving.

No A/C, heater or radio, but there is a Neutral Safety Switch:


...and a "Torque Converter Lockup Enable" switch.


A 3rd brake light circuit remains unused for now; until I find a light that doesn't look ridiculous. Metro DC driving kinda requires one...

Rebel Wire's headlight relays were out of stock, so I got one from Ron Francis.


The MSD 6A ignition control box added unnecessary complexity , so I jettisoned it and bolted the ground bar in its mounting holes.


Finally, headlight, front TS, and horn wires sneak through tubes inside the frame's boxing plates.


"Let there be light. ...... and it was good". Gen 1:3-4 (KJV).

 

Looks good! Where did you get the ground bar?

 

Getting closer !