Projects Introducing the Roofus Special

Oops. I forgot to post the pics with the a-arms in the mock up.

IMG_0940 by Flipper_1938, on Flickr


IMG_0945 by Flipper_1938, on Flickr


IMG_0946 by Flipper_1938, on Flickr

and the p***enger side arm turned upside down as a pretend upper a-arm

IMG_0944 by Flipper_1938, on Flickr

 

And a few more "car" pics.

IMG_0912 by Flipper_1938, on Flickr


IMG_0913 by Flipper_1938, on Flickr


IMG_0914 by Flipper_1938, on Flickr

Looking at the car where it is now, the body looks long.

Out of curiosity, I measured the model A from the firewall to the center of the rear wheel well and compared the same measurement on roofus....would you believe the A model is about a foot longer?

 

Good looking progress, like your pondering chair, seems to work well. Couple of questions for you;

is the engine actually going to sit that high i the frame?

shouldn't the rack be below the frame lower member it looks like it will not allow enough downward suspension travel

do you really need the upper "A" arms, the planar suspension in the jeepster used the spring ***embly as the upper member, addition of a swaybar would limit fore and aft movement. I thik the studebaker used the spring as the lower and a tubulat "I" arm as the upper.

What steering knuckles are you using? Could you modify the top mount to accept the spring eye? Use cam style eccentric bolt to give you some camber angle adjustment.

Don't forget to include some kingpin inclination or caster angle when positioning the spring maybe sloting the spring attachment holes.

pair of friction shocks or the hydraulics from the jag looks like they would fit the theme.

Let me know if I'm buggin' you. But for some unknown reason I'm really into your creation.

 

Replies in bold

 

Here is a different picture of the jag spindles. They are a pretty neat forging.


IMG_0679 by Flipper_1938, on Flickr

 

By chance, has anybody on here ever removed the inner tie rod from a toyota manual rack and pinion unit? How easy was it to remove? I've never really looked to see how they are attached.

Without the inner tie rods installed, it ought to be pretty damn small. Maybe small enough to work into a really tight space (over the lower frame rails and under the crossmember).

If I could remove the tire rod ends, install the rack, and then re-install the inner tie rods with the rack in place, I think I can weld the crossmember in for good.

 

Take the boot off, and the ball joint/ rod end will either thread into the rack, or be held in with a clip. I don't know about Toyota's specifically, but every one I have dealt with, the inner tie rod ends were just threaded in.

Great build, keep up the good work.

 

Cool. Looks like I'll be taking a boot of and having a closer look the next time I go back to dad's house.

 

Here is a different picture of the jag spindles. They are a pretty neat forging.

Hey Flipper,

The Jag spindle is drilled for 2 1/8" Dunlop calipers, but you can also fit 4 piston calipers from a 80's Volvo 240. How are you going to attach the upper wishbone to the frame ?

Paul

 

I'm guessing that the volvo calipers are am upgrade? Do they fit on the stock jag non-vented rotors?

I was thinking about just having tabs welded on top of the upper frame rail. A pair for the front bushing and a pair for the rear. I haven't been able to think of anything really cool.

 

Nothing informative to add, just dropped in to say good work.

Jeff

 

The Dunlops are the first generation disc calipers, the seals rides on the piston and they are expensive to restore if they are corroded. There are two Volvo calipers, the non vented can be fitted with a little work. The conversion details are on the JCNA website. There is some anti dive with the original wishbones and uprights, the upper wishbone pivot is further out from the lower. The upper shaft is a bolt on mount.

Paul

 

I have nothing benefitial to add, just wanted to say its looking good.

 

Looking at Alf's roadster body from scratch thread, I figured out a way to make the t-bucket perch work.

The main crossmember should be on the lower level with the perch rising up and maybe smaller stabalizer tubes running over to the upper frame rails.

Here is a picture of Alf's project



Anybody think this would be a better look than the arched dodge crossmember?

 

I think the Dodge Crossmember would be a better look. It matches the arch of your frame horns better. Just my $0.02.

 

wow this is freaking cool

 

That Dodge cross member was made for it, I would go to great lengths to use it.

If necessary, narrow the crossmember,(front to back) to get clearance for the rack.

 

Yeah I really like the shape of the arch too.

My problem is figuring out how to tie it into the upper framerails, they need some side to side reinforcement in that general area.

The thing that compicated matters for me is that now I am leaning towards going with an upright grill shell like the little french cars...not an exact copy, but something with that vibe. There will be a space between the frame rails and the grill that will be visible. Like on this car.





The radiator and steering are right where I think I need a big beefy, pretty brace.

Anybody have any ideas for what the crossmember reinforcement/upper rail tie-in should look like? (skecthes would be wonderful)

 

My two seater boattail, on the other hand will be on webers... Jagrod.

 

I kinda wanted to put the reinforcement behind the spring instead of in front, simply to have the spring out in the open. The only thing I can fit between the spring and the radiator would be a plate (with a strengthing rib on the top front edge and maybe down the sides).

Anybody think this will be strong enough?

 

Oh yeah, what material thickness would be right for this? I was thinking 3/16".

Could I get away with less? or do I need to go heavier?

Functionally, I'm trying to build a subs***ute for the crazy tube front bulkhead on this jag C-type replica.

 

I would think 1/8" would be fine if you put a couple of ribs in it that are at least 3/16" deep. If you don't rib it, and drill "lightening holes", I would stay with the 3/16" or even 1/4" material.

 

If anybody has any great ideas on how to mount the rack or how to make the bulkhead look cooler/be stronger, please tell me your ideas today.

In the morning, I plan on cutting some steel and welding this thing up according to my latest sketch (maybe with belled lightening holes. I have to try the technique suggested by one of the guys on RRT first).

 

Well Mr. Kentucky, hows the build coming?

Jeff

 

Last time I went to dad's place, I ended up not working on roofus.

I replaced the oil pan gasket on the 48 flatbed to make it roadworthy for the trips to the upcomimg shows. I also did a little work to keep some of the heat out of the cab. That made the truck a lot more pleasant to drive.

I really want to take advantage of the long weekend and get something done done on this car this weekend, but I also want to go to Beatersville. I guess I will wait and see what what the weather looks like / what my mood is later this week.

I have been thinking a little more about the upper control arms and how they will be mounted. I think I am going to take a close look at the original jag cross-shafts and the original jag front crossmember where the a-arms attached to see if I can cut that section out and transplant it on my frame.

The dodge crossmember has been soaking in a vinegar bath to get rid of the rust, It should be completely clean by this weekend and ready for me to mount the steering.

.....I'll probably be working on roofus this weekend.

 

The dodge crossmember was in great condition under that protective layer of arkansas mud and rust.

The jag cross shafts and mounts are not ideal donor parts. At least they way I am trying to arrange them.

I will try again in the morning.

 

Great Build!! Keep pluggin away, your doing great work!

 

This probably won't help your issue about bracing/strengthening the spring mount piece, but have you considered 'sectioning' it longitudinally to make it thinner, front-to-back? You could use the removed center section to reinforce the entire spring mount by welding it to the underside of the mount, reinforcing the seam. It strikes me that might free up some real estate for the grille and/or splash guard, etc. It looks much too wide to me, but sectioned, it would look right centered under the spring.

Cheers -- Gary


The day is committed to error and floundering; success and achievement are matters of long range.-- Goethe

 

Wish I found you over here a long time ago! Looking real good Flipper. Awsome build.

Rod

 

Another purpose of the wide crossmember is to hide the toyota tercell rack and pinion. The rack will be mounted under the spring crossmember.

If I can stand the heat, I plan on working on this car a little this weekend. ...if I can stand the heat.